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Any better ways to store glue ??


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Hi, just wondering is there any better ways to store glue. Getting a bit fed up returning to some glue & it gone crusty or hard. This is more with glues like Gorilla glue. & Yes, i seal them up & have even put them in sealed plastic bags.
I am even thinking when i get a new bottle to split it down to smaller containers & use each one as a one shot & throw it. Do you do anything to preserve your glues??.

Edited By Christopher Morris 2 on 04/12/2019 14:28:07

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Posted by Martin Harris on 04/12/2019 15:07:08:

I've actually had an opened bottle of Gorilla glue which has remained useable for many months. I read the instructions [unusually for me] - and squeezed all of the air out of the container after use. Not particularly easy but very effective...

Cheers, I'll try that. Just got new bottles coming, and the old one, three quarters full is for the bin. Might even build a squeeze air out clamp for the job.

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My Gorilla glue has lasted for some years now. Like Martin, I do squeeze the bottle to remove some air. It is moisture in particular that starts the setting process, with all polyurethane adhesives.

I now use a so called resin PVA, marketed as 502, in this case it just goes off with time, even if not used. As it gets used for DIY, Grandchildrens projects, I get through it quite quickly.

I do use cyno, not often, I find that it keeps for up to 12 months, again goes of with moisture. As for keeping cool, it is at room temp always. I only pay about £2.50 from toolstation. As it ages it can be sued as a viscosity type, although my own have tended to be empty by then.

I work in the house, so is possibly a lot drier and warmer than those who work out of Garden type sheds or garages (as these seldom have a viscreen tray and a cavity wall).

I do not think i worry to much if the glues last a year and only cost less than a few pounds.

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The observation that Ron has made is true for any of the polyurethane adhesives. What happens is that a skin forms on what becomes the new bottom of the container. It is perhaps more useful on the larger industrial type containers, from Henkel (Elk if my memory serves anything like well), Titebond, Lumberjack, the sort of size (750ml 1 litre) that serious large builders use.

Edited By Erfolg on 04/12/2019 17:01:49

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I store reserve cyano in my fridge. Once opened, I keep them on my bench, but stored inside a glass jar with the typical rubber/silicon-type sealing layer keeping the air out. It seems to work well, and it's been a considerable time since I had any premature hardening in the bottle.

I do the same thing with Epoxy - I find the tall, narrow jars which contained olives are just about the right size for the smaller bottles.

As to thickened Polyurethane/Gorilla Glue - one shouldn't, but cooking it up carefully in the microwave (with the top released) has worked well for me for some years.

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Another way to look at this question would be to reconsider the glues being used.

Personally, I've never even seen Gorilla Glue, but for decades I've used white woodworking glue from the local DIY store. For me, it works perfectly for most of the wooden airframe construction. Then use epoxy for the high stress hardwood areas and very occasionally a drop of cyano where appropriate, and even balsa cement where bonding to dope would be beneficial. Plus specific adhesives such as canopy bonding, etc.

These various types of glue are all kept in the workshop when in use, and in the cellar when they're not in use, and I've never had the slightest storage problem. The cyano needs to be purchased in volumes that won't exceed about one year of use, but the white glue, balsa cement and epoxy can and do last much longer.

In other words, are the adhesives mentioned in the OP worth the various storage inconveniences suffered?

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I think that many trade people store their polyurethane upside down is primarily so no time is wasted waiting for the adhesive to flow down to the nozzle. The second is pretty much the same, if a skin forms it does not interfere with the usage.

Allen is of course totally on the money, if you do not squeeze the air out (which is containing the moisture) a skin will form upside down or not. It just is not a barrier between the glue and the nozzle.

In the case of trades people such as boat builders, they will get through the large commercial sized bottles so fast that the issues that are our primary concern, are once in a Blue Moon type stuff.

I have found that the Toolstation Cyno last about 12 months, once opened. For reasons not connected with storage life, I smear the spout with Vaseline. My reason is that the overspill that can run down the spout outside, does not adhere to the Vaseline. It either pulls off (when built up) or I just lightly use the jaws of pliers to crack the shell of. I then re-Vaseline.

In the case of 502 PVA, if and when it starts to thicken, I go along to Toolstation and buy another. I have found it can be worth while checking the shelf live date on the container, as it seems that the odd bottle can be in their store a long time, i then just request a longer life bottle.

I do get the impression that the formulation of PVAs is varied. The first I used could be reactivated when newly applied, by ironing. Some builds suggested the method as a means of applying doublers. I just use smelly Evo-Stick. With the PVAs I have used recently once they have dried, a chemical reaction has taken place, which heat does not seem to affect (certainly not at reasonable temps). Also some PVAs now set in hours, rather than +12 hours. Even the humble 502 grabs in about 1 hour (with pressure) and is set in about 8 hours.

 

Edited By Erfolg on 05/12/2019 10:23:12

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Thanks for the ideas, i think a either some small plastic bottles, or if i can find any an inexpensive collapsible accordion style bottles. But, I will drill some holes i one of my shelves to store them upside down. Was even thinking of syringe's loaded up ready. as the ones in the images are very cheap.

 

Edited By Christopher Morris 2 on 05/12/2019 11:25:39

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