Hello from Oxfordshire-first build project advice please

[Dee Rama]

Good day all

I hope this finds you well. I would like to make a plane, I'll involve my 5 year old daughter. She is quite helpful, and is interested in my woodwork and laser cutting bits and bobs.

I'd love to build something, that we could fly after. I'm not thinking wood initially, something quicker, therefore rudimental. Does anyone know of a foamcore build or cardboard build? If it's wham bamn, gut it up in the air, crash it, but see it fly... then she'll want to invest time in a better build and take care over it.

I know I can buy something, but I want her to invest and 'build' something.

Would you be kind enough to offer suggestions?

May I also have a list of necessities, or a point to a good thread. I'll obviously need servos, rods, transmitters etc etc and don't know where to start.

With thanks
Dee

[Denis Watkins]

Have a look at these Dee

From the BMFA

**LINK**

[gliggsy]

Do a Google for flitetest

[Martian]

Most certainly Flitetest free plans foamboard bonded hot glue , www.flite**LINK**testcom

[Dee Rama]

Thank you Dennis and Gliggsy.

Little one is already loving flying a little cheap drone so I think that something contolable is well suited. Loving flitettest, think I'll have a good watch of their stuff.

Thank you, I saw a pizza box build somewhere that looked fun also.

Any tips for a transmitter?

Thank you
Dee

[Jon H]

Transmitter choice will depend on how you see things developing.

If you just want to have a little fun with a glider or something then more or less any cheap radio will do. If however you think it might develop into more and you think you may end up with a powered model in time and will join a model flying club then i would spend a few quid more and get something better as you will only have to replace the cheaper gear later on.

[Nigel R]

"If it's wham bamn, gut it up in the air, crash it, but see it fly... then she'll want to invest time in a better build and take care over it."

 

Nutball. It really is the simplest thing going.

Everything that goes up in the air, on mine, was bought for about £50. Also need some batteries, charger & TX, hot glue gun.

**LINK**

 

The Pizza box flyer is a bit more advanced, in terms of pilot skill.

Edited By Nigel R on 27/03/2020 10:51:50

Edited By Nigel R on 27/03/2020 10:52:37

[kc]

Of course anything over 250 grams weight is subject to the laws about registering as an Operator with the CAA and taking the test. In addition all sensible pilots make sure they are insured and most of us join BMFA to get insurance.

[fly boy3]

For a "wham bam and crash" project, HK has a Tx for as little as £25 . Cheers

Edited By fly boy3 on 27/03/2020 11:45:12

[kc]

I don't think we should be encouraging " wham bam crash" ! We need to get the message around that aeromodelling is a serious hobby and needs to be undertaken in the same manner as driving - it's a responsibility. That's why club have instructors.

It's also worth saying that you cannot just fly anywhere - it needs the landowners permission. Flying sites are hard to come by.

It's also necessary to ensure that Tx and Rx are 'full range' if flying outdoors, and cheap stuff might not be suitable for planes.

[fly boy3]

I agree KC. Cheers

[Dee Rama]

Love the Nutball, thank you. I'll have a proper read of that. Thank you for the feedback on the pizza box.

Kc, I am bound to crash the first plane, I will try not to and I promise to treat the plane with respect and like one of the family and treat it with due care and attention. My 5 year old definately won't, because she's 5.

Seriously though, I'm not belittling anything. All hobbies are serious to those who love them. I just don't want to spend lots of of monies buying or/and hours building something just to crash it and then it's fooked. I want to be happy for her to crash it, I don't want to be the parent that keeps saying "be careful" or "NO! give me back the controller". Let her crash it for goodness sake. Let her take the wing off at home, make another one, can it be improved? Try different things, glue it on and get back out there. Take stuff out there and gaffa tape.

I can't afford to do that on an expensive plane.... that I will crash. I want my daughter to appreciate things, to be able to fix things, improve things and to invest time into things.

I'm happy to spend £9 on the test, thank you for pointing that out.

This will develop into something that I will continue to build, either just for myself or with my daughter. The development of building something from card or foamboard to wood and bigger scale I know will entice her. So a better transmitter suggestion would be very much appreciated, thank you.

I'm very lucky to have 151 acres at my disposal with only a mansion house in the middle to avoid, neither belong to me sadly, but it's private land, seeing as you ask kc.

I will join a club, my daughter loves Air Tattoos so visiting a club will really excite her. However, in Oxfordshire there's a cough going around at the moment and for a couple more weeks I think.

I'd like something to pass the time whilst there's not much going on

Thank you for you help all

Dee

[Dad_flyer]

Child_flyer and I had a lot of fun with a giant (foam board) paper aeroplane recently, after the Flite test video on them. Not RC, just chucking it. The board we used was a bit heavy, so did not fly that far, but still a great fun.

[Dee Rama]

Dear all

Foamboard should arrive today for Nutball build

After some researching I noticed that the majority of the electrical components listed for the build are no longer made, or have been upgraded since the 2013 original build 8 year ago.

The original components are;

BATTERY
Turnigy 500mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack
Turnigy 500mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack

Is there a good article one here about the differences in battery types? As of yet I do not understand if I can use a 600 or 700mAh, if the number of cells matter and if not why not. Will that affect the speed controller, will it affect the motor or even the prop. Lots to learn about!

ESC
Dynam 18Amp ESC w/ 3A BEC
TURNIGY Plush 18amp Speed Controller - I've found a Turnigy BASIC 18amp speed controller, can i use that? I couldn't find a description and therefor difference between BASIC and PLUSH
Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC
Suppo 18A Brushless ESC

Motor

LazerToyz Blue Wonder 24g [2712-12]
HEXTRONIK 24GRAM BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER 1300KV
Turnigy Park300 Brushless Outrunner 1380kv - I found a 1800KV motor, but I assume it's for a heavier plane, it also weighs much more.
Suppo 2208/14 1450kv Brushless Motor (Park 370 equiv.)

I found the following UK model shops. I'd rather pay a shop than Amazon are there any particular stores that are great?

w.modelsport.uk

wheelspinmodels.co
elitemodelsonline

With thanks
Dee

[G-JIMG]

Dee,

For my first excursion into electric flight I used 4-Max. George is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

In my case he actually ran various combinations of motor/esc/battery to identify the right configuration for my planned model.

Jim.

[kc]

Dee, we are not too worried that you crash & wreck your plane - it's whether a crash causes injury or even death or just property damage that concerns us. It seems that people think of planes as toys that won't harm anyone. In my time in RC aeromodelling I can think of about 5 deaths reported from people being struck by out of control planes! In particular I remember the two very young kids - maybe about 7 or 8 years - who got hit in the head and died. Freak accidents but young heads seem particularly vulnerable. To put that in context thats 5 in over thirty years, not that much considering 5 people get killed in road accidents every day in UK. But enough to make sure flying is done in the safest way possible.

So that's why we advise flying in a club environment with an instructor. In a club spectators will be kept well back from planes and planes flown in a safe area. The instructor should grab control if the trainee looks like losing it. Saves the plane but more importantly saves hitting somebody or something.  Instructors also inspect planes before flight to ensure everything is OK - almost every first timer finds he got something completly wrong!  In addition clubs can advise about safety in the pits- props can start up instantly and chop into fingers - see the horrific cuts in various posts reported here on the forum from experienced aeromodellers......

A great hobby but only if done safely. And really only for youngsters under the strictest instruction. Far safer than lots of things like cycling etc etc.

Edited By kc on 28/03/2020 12:38:36

[Dad_flyer]

If you don't find it easy to match specs, then a pack may be the best option for your first plane. 4-max will certainly suggest something appropriate if you contact them. Otherwise the Flitetest packs include motor, prop, ESC, servos and are available from the vintage model company. The A-pack probably is about right.

You are right to look at the motor weight, as well as being important for the final weight and balance of the model, it is a good indication of the general power capabilities.

[Dee Rama]

So, a month later here's an update.

Daughter and I have been making and here's the results. We've built the Nutball, then the Old Fogey then the Versa then the Explorer and now I'm doing the mini Corsair. It's been really good fun making. Haven't flown any yet due to lockdown of course.

So... questions for you. I've weighed the Explorer, its weight (including a hypothetical 60g motor) is 707g. I'd like 80w or so per lb for slow fly. I believe that's a low Kv of around 1000 for a 8 or 10 inch prop?

My calcs on that indicate a 130w motor, 16amp esc (so 22 to 25amp) on a 2s. Or an 11amp ESC (16amp at 100%) on 3s. I've weighed those batteries

Question is, the motors I've found (that show wattage, not many!) have a higher KV, am I stuck putting a smaller prop on? Or am I missing something...

Or, are slow fliers lighter!

Hope all are well

[Denis Watkins]

Dee,

BRC hobbies gives you a good idea of Watts ability in the Motor Combos section

And you can look back from there in their Motor section to price and choose

Edited By Denis Watkins on 28/04/2020 11:42:17

[Dee Rama]

Thank you Denis

[Broken Prop]

Fantastic work Dee! Thank you for sharing it with us and good luck with the flying.

Remember to do the first unpowered launch over long grass if possible so that you get an idea of what is going to happen. it will give you the chance to trim out any nasty tendencies such as turning to one side or stalling.

Let us know how you get on please

Blue skies!

pete

[kc]

There were some items from a month ago that were not answered - the difference between the Turnigy Plush and a more basic ESC is likely to be the BEC output ( amps for the servos really and therefore how many servos could be used without overloading ) Not very important with 2 mini servos but might be if used later on a model with 3 or more servos and they are all used at once. Turnigy Plush are the ones my clubmates and I like to use.

kv is revs per volt and therefore the kv choice for motors depends on how many cells the lipo has. 3.7 volts per cell for Lipos - 2S will be 7.4 volts and 3S 11.1 volt. So a 2S on a 1000kv will only give 7400 rpm while a 3S will give 11,100 rpm. So motor kv , lipo voltage and prop size are all inter related. You need to choose a compatible setup of those. The motor suggested by FlightTest for the Nutball does not seem available now.

Model weight needs to include the Lipo which in the case of these light weight models makes a huge difference.

[Dee Rama]

Thank you Broken Prop, long grass, unpowered - good idea!!

Thank you also kc - I like doing the working out on things like this. I just need to find the right motor for my weight and prop.

[kc]

Several people have suggested you speak to George at 4 Max and take his advice on motor/battery/prop &ESC. This might be one motor he could suggest for the Nutball ( depending on size you made ) and the appropriate Lipo,prop and ESC. Note that this needs the connectors soldering on and you need to solder them onto ESC anyway so soldering is the next 'art' to master. Soldering is an art or at least a knack to acquire. 4 max also sell soldering irons and you should note that people prefer leaded solder especially with older model soldering irons. Leaded solder is still sold and considered safe enough to use for infrequent use.

[Denis Watkins]

I posted this recently somewhere else

The chart looks at weight