Peter Miller Posted October 4, 2020 Author Share Posted October 4, 2020 Hard balsa. ALWAYS hard for spars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Hi, I have started one wing but may have made a blunder. The bottom spar is laid flat on the board and its says from R6 taper the spar from a 1/4 to 1/8 at R11. Is this spar tapered on the underneath before laying down on the plan or tapered after the wing is built and removed from the plan. Hope this makes sense. Thank you Glen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 10, 2020 Author Share Posted October 10, 2020 The spars are tapered on the inside because the ribs get narrow so you will notice that the spar slots get shallower towards the tip. If they didn't the ribs would be extremely narrow between the spar slots. So you should taper the spar before laying it down but you can taper it once pinned down but obviously before gluing on the ribs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted October 10, 2020 Share Posted October 10, 2020 Gotcha, Just have to cut some more ribs now, on with the build. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 My part kit arrived from Sarik yesterday afternoon so it's ready to start once my Li'l Cub is finished - probably in the New Year. What it inspired was to decide how it was going to be powered. I have a Multiplex Blizzard I haven't flown for several years (it's still on 35Mhz). I enjoyed it for a while but now I find it a bit quick and I daren't take my eyes off it so I've been thinking it has to go. It does, however, have an excellent motor fitted; it's a Scorpion 3020-14 (944 rpm/v)which should suit the Chaos perfectly, so I've removed it in preparation for the build. Now it's just a matter of finding a Chaos with colours suiting whatever film I have in stock and preferably without spats Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Well there are lots of choices out there. Mine was one without spats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Pennink Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Peter is the wire required for the undercarriage and the elevator joiner included in the Sarik Hobbies short kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 looks like my Chaos will be coming to a halt, can not get balsa for love nor money. Wished i had gone for the Sarik parts now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 Posted by Robert Pennink on 16/10/2020 18:09:26: Peter is the wire required for the undercarriage and the elevator joiner included in the Sarik Hobbies short kit? I haven't examined my short kit very closely but I'm almost certain it's only the CNC cut parts and the balsa etc required to complete the airframe. So no hardware including piano wire. However that's easy to buy. @bees: that's why I opted for the additional balsa pack - ie the short kit, despite the expense I'm being very careful with what wood I have in stock and I go to my box full of pieces of wood too small to be of further use quite frequently. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 2, 2020 Author Share Posted November 2, 2020 Sorry, I don't know, I never buy the kits, My models come out of my materials stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 Peter, I am struggling to obtain 1/32 ply for the doublers , can you recommend an alternative . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 I thought 1/32 ply was stocked by SLEC or Balsa Cabin and wasn't part of the supply problem. However, you could opt for using 3mm liteply for the fuselage sides, perhaps? Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 3, 2020 Author Share Posted November 3, 2020 As Geoff has said, SLEC stock it. I would suggest ordering by phone because you can then ask them to cut the sheet (24" long will do for Chaos) in half lengthwise which will make posting the thin ply much safer and easier . Trust me that will be appreciated. I would imagine that Balsa Cabin will also stock t and the same suggestion applies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted November 10, 2020 Share Posted November 10, 2020 Hi, Iam at the point where i need to order some covering, It will just two colours so iam wondering if one roll of each colour be enough to cover the model, Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share Posted November 10, 2020 If you are buying Hobbyking covering it will be more than enough. If you are going to try for some of the last Solarfilm I would say that a couple of metres of each would be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted November 12, 2020 Share Posted November 12, 2020 Hi everybody, the build is coming along fine, just acquired some 1/2 inch x 4 prices have shot up but can not do much regarding that but next project probably will be a short kit from sarik. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Hi, Got to the point of attaching the wings to the fuz with a captive nut and bolt from underneath. The article says to provide a hole under the fus which lets air out but allows you with a long allen key to attach the wing but my thinking is how do you stop the bolt from dropping into the fus. Thank you for any imfo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 18, 2020 Author Share Posted November 18, 2020 Mine is held in by the friction between the wood and the threads.The threads are coarse and the hole is a close but not tight fit. Crude and simple but It hasn't fallen out so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul morris 1 Posted November 19, 2020 Share Posted November 19, 2020 On my little mis honky tonk another of peters designs i have made the hole in the balsa part above the ply plate just a little bigger for a 1/16 of on inch down and used a rubber o ring over the bolt threads and so far no trouble with the bolt falling out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 19, 2020 Author Share Posted November 19, 2020 I had not thought of that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryt Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Thought I would show you my progress so far and take the opportunity to thank Peter for creating a plan for such an interesting subject. I looked at an S-10 based at a local airfield a couple of years ago. Really liked the windows under the wings. Must have been quite a view from the cockpit. No problems during the build. I really like the undercarriage design. Luckily I managed to get the angles right without too much muttering. I am now waiting for a spinner so I can finish the nose block profile. I am also waiting for some 500 micron plastic for the canopy. My canopy frames turned out to be quite flimsy so I'm going to try to make them again. Given that there is not much to see in the cockpit, I wonder if it would be worthwhile using opaque black plastic for the canopy and side windows. The canopy frames could then be beefed up without showing. There is time to think about that because there is still lots of tidying up, filling and finishing to do before covering. Keep well everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 That looks really good. I just used black film for the windows under the wing. I feel that that huge canopy would not look so good in solid black. But that is up to you. I used very small screws to hold it down and, while it is a bit fiddly it isn't too hard, the hardest section is the frnt windscreen panel and even that isn't too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bees Posted December 3, 2020 Share Posted December 3, 2020 Hi Barry, Nice build and coming along nicely. I have more or less finished the covering on mine and more or less ready to tackle the canopy , think i will go along with the plastic route as i have made the three frames ready to install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 3, 2020 Author Share Posted December 3, 2020 Bees Actually you would be bette roff with four frames. One for the windscreen, two for the centre poortion ans sone for the rear part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barryt Posted December 4, 2020 Share Posted December 4, 2020 Thanks again Peter & Bees. I'm trying the frames again with some very thin hardwood veneer. Should be a lot stronger than my first attempt. Four frames it is ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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