Mini flight stabilisers

[Martin McIntosh]

I have also used the ORX Rx/stab which works OK but I did not have/use an on and off switch.

Built four of the TN mini jets, yet to be flown, which is why I am interested in a more up to date system to use in these. I have some hack models which have previously been used for testing stabs. Its really just that flight mode function which I need to get my head round. Will google it.

[Richard Clark 2]

Why do some of these things have 6 axes in a 3 dimensional universe?

[Ron Gray]

I assume that for each of the 3 axes there are a + and -, so for pitch there are up and down, yaw left and right etc I could be totally wrong of course!

[Richard Clark 2]

Posted by Ron Gray on 09/07/2020 06:25:30:

I assume that for each of the 3 axes there are a + and -, so for pitch there are up and down, yaw left and right etc I could be totally wrong of course!

You are probably right

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

If I remember correctly a 3 axis gyro has 3 attitude sensors which will tell the unit which way up it is. But these are slow to respond to the slight changes that we need our gyros to correct. So 3 accelerometers were added hence the term 6 axis.

[Ron Gray]

Ah, right, so maybe better to describe them as 6 sensor stabs then.

[Denis Watkins]

Posted by Richard Clark 2 on 09/07/2020 06:13:21:

Why do some of these things have 6 axes in a 3 dimensional universe?

Also, with 6 axes came SAFE

When everything goes wrong, let the sticks go, and the model can correct.

It is aimed at novice students as a competent flyer would have great difficulty letting go of the sticks.

The Mode for your own style can then be chosen from 3 modes

[Ron Gray]

The ORX one in my original post only has 2 modes, beginner (SAFE) and 'expert'.

The Radiolink Byrne A has 5! (Vertical/ Angle / Rate / Horizon /Manual)

[Martin McIntosh]

Each of the three gyros is paired with an accellerometer, totally different to the old piezo or mechanical ones and not really affected by vibration.

I have been looking at my JR manual to see if it is of help but this is an old system now and talks of using two channels to control two gyros giving only any two of the three control surfaces stabilisation, so back to square one.

I need to work out how to get one channel to control gain and respond to a three position switch, but have not as yet connected up one of the units.

[Denis Watkins]

Is this the unit you are using Martin, or another 1?

NX3 3D Flight Controller Gyroscope

[Martin McIntosh]

Hi Denis, it just says NX3 on the unit and instructions.

[Denis Watkins]

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 09/07/2020 16:45:57:

Hi Denis, it just says NX3 on the unit and instructions.

Thanks Martin

The instructions mention a programme card that I couldn't see in the pics

The card to set up a switch

They are very specific about initialization to the Tx on a new empty model space, not a existing set up and

have the model still on the ground

I say this as I often set up on my knee and that would not work with this unit

Edited By Denis Watkins on 09/07/2020 18:07:12

[Jeffrey Cottrell 2]

Hi Denis

Looked through the instructions for my NX3 and can't see any reference to a prog card. Could you tell e where you found it?

Jeff

[Denis Watkins]

1000 apologies guys, my fault, there is no card

a gentleman came on to me by message and his unit assigned switches by programme card

I did not check through far enough to confirm he was Not talking about the NX3

sorry again

[Martin McIntosh]

I have a fair bit of experience in setting up 250mm quads with CC3D`s and know that they need initialising perfectly level, also the ORX ones. One quad kit came with a TGY i6 set which has a two position switch for self levelling on/off and a couple of knobs to set the value but just how all that lot came to work I do not know.

My problem is simply to translate the program to a DSX9. As I said I have not yet connected one up and it may work out simpler than I thought. I need to put the finishing touches to yet another new model before I get too involved with this; also to test fly some of the intended recipients as they are before complicating matters.

Thanks for your input.

[Martin McIntosh]

Spent the morning playing around with these on the bench and had some fun and games.

Using a known good Orange 9ch Rx I tried a 6.6V LiFe pack. No response to the aux channel and everything sat there twitching by itself so I connected a brand new UBEC, 5V 5A which seemed a bit intermittent, in fact I believe that the metal tape screen wrapped round it was shorting something so it went in the bin. Tried a known good one with a 2s Lipo and it did not like that either, the Rx kept losing its bind. I then realised that one of the satellites was not working. Binned that and replaced it, similarly the servo connected to rudder ch was iffy. Still no response to the control ch.

Connected a large ESC in order to use the BEC and things calmed down. At last I could control the beast but there can be a delay at switch on, otherwise OK but if they are that sensitive to the type of power supply I am unsure what to do. Most of my i/c models use 2s LiFe, some on 5s NiMh, and what about an electric one where I shall have to use the BEC? Part two when I have tried one.

[Denis Watkins]

5s Nimh is nearest the specified 4.5 - 6v range of an NX3 Martin

So while you practice on the bench, give it a go with the Nimh while you get used to it.

The NX3 takes its voltage from the Rx servo outputs and makes no claim to operate over 6v.

I always align front to back, where the rear of the model are your leads coming from the stab

Top/ Up is where you can read the writing and adjust the pots

[Martin McIntosh]

A 5s NiMh fully charged will be a lot higher than 6V for quite a while. I do not have a spare one so will connect up to an existing model. Still puzzled as to why they do not like a 5V 5A UBEC. I was using 2 digi and 2 analogue servos to test them with. My mini jets which I bought them for use digi servos all round. I shall see what happens.

[Martin McIntosh]

I was wrong about the mini jet servos, they are mixed analogue and digi. Gyro works OK on the Gnat and Hunter, but when I tried a freshly charged 6V NiMh using my test servos they just went mad. I think that I shall just put these down to experience and ditch them.

For safety on 2.4 I now never use 4.8V since a bad cell means a lost model.

Edited By Martin McIntosh on 14/07/2020 17:13:23

[Ron Gray]

Just arrived in today's post, they are small! Pictured against an FrSky RX6R and a pound coin.

[Ron Gray]

The 'obvious' drawback of these is the lack of a 2nd channel for ailerons so would probably need servo reverser plus differential would have to be manually applied rather than through Tx. Also I don't think that there is a way to alter the gain control, but I need to look into that in more detail. But for the smaller 'simpler' 'planes and as a rudder and elevator only gyro they look good. Hope to install one and try it out tomorrow evening.

[Brian Cooper]

I will be the voice in the wilderness here by declaring that I do not like these electronic stabilisers. . This is based on having flown about 20 models fitted with them over the years...... not my models, but models which other people wanted me to test for them.

I find them "intrusive" at best. They soften the control responses and question every command input. Grrrrrrr. One of them, fitted to a 3D machine, would not even allow the model to raise its nose into a prop hang. Oh, no.... it put the nose back down before reaching 45 degrees... Grrrrrrr.

The worst one I experienced was a couple of weeks ago where the wretched system would not allow the controls to deflect fully to any stick inputs. . If I applied left aileron, the stabiliser questioned the command before deciding to allow a little bit of control deflection. . It was just like NANNY saying (after a short delay) "Well you have asked for left aileron but I will just let you have a little bit this time". Grrrrrrr.

The systems insist that "Nanny knows best" . . . Well, chaps, when I move a stick, I expect an instant and ACCURATE response to my inputs, right there and right then. My commands are not supposed to be a subject for discussion by an electronic Nanny.

NANNY does NOT know best. . Rip out those horrid stabilisers and FLY the models as they should be flown.

B. C.

[Ron Gray]

Brian I find that they are only intrusive if not setup correctly or the right mode hasn't been selected, by you! Most also have an off function too (apart from the one at the top of this post in my Tempest). Taking the Tempest as an example, it has 2 modes, in the first it will not let the model have excessive controls but in the second you can do what you like with the sticks and the model will respond as though there isn't a gyro. However the gyro is working and is smoothing out little course deflections caused by wind gusts, which means that even in stiff cross winds that little model flies like it's on rails and is so smooth. Try doing that yourself!

[Denis Watkins]

Posted by Ron Gray on 20/07/2020 10:52:40:

Brian I find that they are only intrusive if not setup correctly or the right mode hasn't been selected, by you! Most also have an off function too (apart from the one at the top of this post in my Tempest). Taking the Tempest as an example, it has 2 modes, in the first it will not let the model have excessive controls but in the second you can do what you like with the sticks and the model will respond as though there isn't a gyro. However the gyro is working and is smoothing out little course deflections caused by wind gusts, which means that even in stiff cross winds that little model flies like it's on rails and is so smooth. Try doing that yourself!

Absolutely

[fly boy3]

Slightly off topic, due to orientation of our runway we cannot always take off into wind. Not too bad with light winds, but a bit naughty with winds above 10-15 knots. Landing obviously gives most problems at this time. Would a stab. help in these cicumstances I wonder ?