Old newbie

[Brian Cooper]

Re: Cyano. . . if you're not familiar with handling it, it is advisable to have some cyano de-bonder standing by to release your fingers from ...... well ...... anything.

Beware of the thin stuff.

[Matt Carlton]

Very basically.

Thin cyano is really thin, like water and is especially useful because it 'wicks' into joints. Modern CNC cut kits can essentially be assembled dry and thin CA wicked into the joints. Similarly for repairing splits in sheeting and so on. However, it will not fill gaps so really tight joints only. It also dries very quick, so no time to reposition things. You may also find that the very 'wicking' action which is advantageous at times can mean that the glue wicks away from the joint.

Medium CA tends to be more like glycerin in consistency. It doesn't absorb into wood as quickly or as well, but is much better where joints are not absolutely tight. Also a bit more working time, but not a lot. Can be instantly cured with a catalyst if needed. Really useful for general use, but does dry quite brittle like all CA.

Thick CA is more akin to a gel. I don't like it. Personally I can't see a time where I'd need a slow/thick CA where wood glue or aliphatic resin wouldn't be better. Some people swear by it though, especially for glueing down wing sheeting onto ribs. However, I can't say too much more as I really don't use it.

Debonder does what it says, but do it quickly as it doesn't always debond very well if the glue has really dried. Very useful for fingers and lips. Don't laugh, I stuck my finger to my lip as I chew my fingers sometimes. Not good.

Remember CA was developed specifically to bond skin and flesh. In fact, I always keep a tube of thin CA handy in a first aid kit or when cutting as it's really quick and easy to mend yourself with.

Tubes, nozzles and applicators are invariably a bit rubbish. I like to use smaller tubes as larger ones tend to end up wasting a lot of CA with it clogging nozzles etc.

Rather than use the supplied tube, inserting a piece of thin wire into the nozzle and allowing the CA to run down the wire is a more precise way to apply the glue to small parts.

Be aware of excessive fumes, especially if applied to soft balsa (particularly end grain)

That's about my two penneth. It is quite subjective though, do try different brands and types as your experience may vary

Don't be swayed by fancy packaging and branding though....

[Frank Day]

Thanks to all for the info, tips and links.

I did watch a video where a guy used all the CA options, kickers etc etc so this has been really useful.

I have to build the tail and sheet all of it so ill do a few tests on some scrap with different products first.

Thanks

[Piers Bowlan]

I bought a fan heater similar to this one and, as well as heat, it will blow cold air too. I put it on the end of my work bench to blow the cyno fumes away so as not to breath them in. It also disperses balsa dust when sanding, which is hazardous as well. Always keep a window or door open when using cyno or you will become sensitised eventually.

I don't know if these retracts are suitable for the Tony Nijhuis Typhoon but at that price it might be worth buying a spare, just in case. Out of stock at present but it says fresh deliveries expected this month...

[Frank Day]

Hi,

Off at a tangent. I went mad and bought a Hobbyking Lancaster V3 for use at a later date. Hopefully by then I will have upskilled enough not to crash it out of the box. though having read some forum posts that day may never arrive..

There seems to be a shortage of, in my case useful spares, propellers come to mind. I could wait for it to come but does anyone know the propeller size and pitch.

Thanks

[Zflyer]

I think you should look at Gliders in Newark for your props, they have 6x4 3 blade counter clockwise in stock.

[Shaun Walsh]

Master Airscrew make 6x4x3 props in both normal and pusher configuration.

Did you get the custom made retracts too?

Edited By Shaun Walsh on 22/01/2021 14:54:07

Edited By Shaun Walsh on 22/01/2021 14:55:55