Martyn K Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 Your build quality is amazing Martin I was thinking of going down the yellow path as well. However, I am not sure what colour of Yellow it is. There doesn't appear to be any gun troughs but they may be not visible from this angle Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Thanks Martyn, not quite so amazing upclose !! Good observation ref the gun troughs on the yellow fury. I've seen other pictures of the yellow version that do show the gun troughs. I'll be leaving them on if I do go for this version. Hoping Danny will be back on with updates soon...... regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 I wonder if any fellow builders out there who are planning on using oleos for the landing gear could let me know which ones they have. Presumably Hobbyking but I wonder which size suits the model best Thanks in advance Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 9, 2019 Share Posted October 9, 2019 Hi Martin really impressive work. I intend to use a couple of oleos that are from a seagull Mossie, very narrow which I think will be key. Sorry I haven't been on the Fury much, been playing with some control line stuff. Fury avoidance tactic I fear. But I will get back on it soon, needs finishing! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted October 9, 2019 Author Share Posted October 9, 2019 Danny Ref the oleo's - what diameter and length are the ones you are thinking of using ? Are you still planning no further litho work on your Fury ? cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 Hi Martin, the oleos I am considering are 150mm long the upper section has an OD of 10mm, the inner/lower section an OD of 8mm. Not sure if they will work, but that's my thinking at the mo. No more litho plate work is intended on the cowl, but a few blister and so forth will probably be needed. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 5, 2019 Author Share Posted November 5, 2019 Hi Fellow builders Inspired by Teachers progress so decided a tailwheel was a better idea than the skid. I'm not really modelling a specific Fury example so I think practicality over scale is a better option. Tailwheel is aluminium tube, piano wire and some shrink tube to build up the piano wire arms, finished off with some ??BA nuts. The whole thing siuts in a larger diameter alloy tube section in the balsa block. I opted for a carbon rod drive from the servo with M2 rod and clevises for adjustment. The tailwheel is removable by using a small screw securing the 2 sections. And made a start on the landing gear bits, waiting oleos at the moment. I also feel a shopping spree at Mick Reeves coming on..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 5, 2019 Share Posted November 5, 2019 Looking good Martin Did Mick and Jim take all your money. They are good at doing that. The plus side is a few days lots of unique bits and pieces arrive Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 12, 2019 Author Share Posted November 12, 2019 Hi All Yep, spent a few pennies at MR. Decided to have a go at the wheels and tyres, much as described by Danny, I have made mine come apartable, 3 2mm screws used for this. 1/8 inch inner diameter ball races to provide smooth running. My tyres are 19mm neoprene but I needed 265mm lengths to get a fit over the ply disc wheels. Thin cyano joins the neoprene ring, I didn't quite get an invicible join but good enough i think. Next problem is getting a fit between the piano wire axle and the ball race inner diameters. The best fit piano wire is 2.98mm with the ballraces being 2.97mm !!!! I guess heating the ballrace and freezing the axle should work but this would be a one off assembly as they wont be coming apart again ?? Now for the wheel covers - litho or shaped foam covered in GF cloth and resin ?? Any advice appreciated Edited By Martin Fane on 12/11/2019 13:41:21 Edited By Martin Fane on 12/11/2019 13:41:42 Edited By Martin Fane on 12/11/2019 13:43:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Looks great Martin, you are definitely getting the hang of this Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 15, 2019 Author Share Posted November 15, 2019 Landing gear now installed and rigged. Cheap HK oleo's with extensions as suggested by Danny. All seems to work nicely with the retaining clamps not tightened too much. I've moved the trailing link cross brace anchor points up slightly to prevent interference with the radiator housing with the oleo's in the weight on position, not to scale but an easy solution to the problem. Now onto some covering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 That looks great Martin. I really need to get mine underway again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 15, 2019 Share Posted November 15, 2019 That looks ace Martin, well done. Good luck with the covering. I just tried some Jap tissue. Never again lol It seems I have been covering the wrong way for years. All I can say in my defence is tea bag tissue is quick cheap and works for me. Just have to apply two layers to stand a chance of filling the weave Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 16, 2019 Author Share Posted November 16, 2019 Hi Martyn Thanks for the comments, I've followed your build too, looks great, the finish line isn't too far away...... Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 16, 2019 Share Posted November 16, 2019 Lovely neat work Martin . I see you use the overlander model stand i used to do the same until I bought a fully adjustable one made from wood with neoprene support cushioning i picked it up at LMA Gosford it's brilliant it will securely hold a wing of fuselage and complete model . Hobbyking sell them to but sadly out of stock also RC models Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Hi Fellow Furites Well, had enough studying Dannys posts and videos and decided to get on with some modelling. First some tissuing, a very long time since I've done this but following the video seemd to produce good results, this is 2 layers of Yorkshire tea bag tissue Next up some litho work to make those blisters. I had decided covering the cowl with blisters in one go was not going to work so off they came and a bit of isopon filled the holes. I made up a mold from one of the removed blisters and went about forming blisters from lithoplate, Dannys technique worked a treat, The Dapping tools make light work of the forming. My initial effort by trying to form the lithoplate around the blister failed miserably with the material creasing badly. For interest the lithoplate is 0.2mm thick. The finished items. I realise now the blisters are actually handed but I now have 2 left hand sided ones - seem to fit OK but true scale buffs may see the error. And fitted to the cowl hatch which I had previously covered in Flite metal. The Flite metal is sanded with 400 / 320 grit to remove the shine. And the cowl area's so far, the gun trough area's are Flite metal and Lithoplate in its initail shinny stae - yet to be sanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 28, 2019 Share Posted November 28, 2019 That looks brilliant Martin well done Did you manage to get the thin litho plate to go that far? better than me, you get "star of the week" That tissue looks good too, no dope yet? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 Thanks Danny Yes it was the thin lithoplate, the tissue is the second layer, no dope on it yet - its still drying / shrinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 6, 2019 Author Share Posted December 6, 2019 Finished the fuselage tissueing and on with the Flitemetal. Managed a few panels on one side, fiddly and marks easily but has the right look I think. The area aft of the cockpit will be tissue covered to simulate the full size fabric covered stowage oanels (i think thats what it is) unless Danny has other suggestions ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 6, 2019 Share Posted December 6, 2019 Looks great Martin, yes apart from a panel across the top of the storage area the storage sides are doped fabric over ply. Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 06/12/2019 16:00:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 HNY to all Furites Very quiet on the build blogs, hopefully we will see progress on the builds soon. Been slow progress for me, but here's where I'm upto Revisited the fuselage underside by adding some fabric effect to the wing center section, its my take on the full size using the great photo librarys posted by some of the builders Rethink on the radiator too, put it together as one peice and held on with magnets. Added some of the structure and rivet detail Axles resized for the wheel bearings and the undercariage trial fitted All the covering is now done, I've used a layer of heavy tea bag tissue covered with a second layer of lightweight modelspan - gives a really nice finish with just a couple of coats of dope. Same for the wings, my servo's are now locked in A bit of lithoplate work at the rar end Wing cabane section is complete now with the underside painted, trainer yellow by klasskote - very nice to use Front end view Assembled you can see here that the tissue work has caused a bit of distortion leaving a bit of a gap between the upper wing centre section and outer panel joints, just wondering if I shound incorporate some sort of ply or lithoplate shroud over the joint to tidy it up a bit ??? So much still to do ............. Edited By Martin Fane on 31/01/2020 16:39:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Donaldson Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Your finish puts me to shame. I’m at the final stage. Just the rigging to complete and then it would be ready for a trial flight or at least a ground run. I used Sorartex and Humbrol Matt enamel (South African Air Force camouflage). No cockpit details yet. There maybe a photograph next week. No litho plate used apart from the windscreen surround. Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Looks fabulous Martin, well done. I have the same issue on mine where the root ribs have distorted a little, leaving gaps. I was going to add a litho strip just to hide it Ready for paint then Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 That looks great Martin. We'll done. Beautiful work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 Thanks for commenting guys, much appreciated. A question for Danny, are you applying rib tapes to both upper and lower surfaces of both wings ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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