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Roger Yeomans 3
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I have just built a Boomerang which is also by Seagull.

Very easy to build although the instructions leave a bit to be desired.  They have you fitting undercarriage, engine and then  tail section, which if you follow makes the model all to difficult to handle.

Beware of the "strong covering".  I managed to puncture the  wing very easily by not being carefull enough when joining together.  Must have left something on the bench.  I also did not cover the wing with cling film when joining and got a bit of epoxy over the wing and the colours do not like acetone.

Overall I am satisfied but will need a bit of tuition as I am not to sure how robust it will be in the enivitable un-planned landing.  Yet to take it out as it was a bit gusty at the weekend.

I have an old Maracado which I am renovating.  It has foam wings covered with vineer, however, looks a bit more robust.  A good bit heavier than the Boomerang but will do as a trainer.

Hopefully this weekend will be kinder and there will be a tutor at the field. 

Will keep you informed and good luck

Edit  I am not an expert and hopefully somebody more experienced will contribute

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Hi Roger, it's a good model that I've seen many beginners learn to fly with, it's good value too. It's similar to a number of other trainer machines out there yet that's no bad thing. Not a lot more I can add - I'd certainly recommend it  along with a number of other i.c. powered trainer models.  

Don't be afraid to ask here if you need any help with the build.

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Great model as far as trainners go. Taught lots of people to fly on one. Our club used to have one as there club trainner and that lasted very well. If you are flying from grass it might be worth you converting it to a tail dragger.  Fit it with a 46 and not a 40 . I helped out  building an electric one a while ago which flew very well on a 4S setup.
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Always broke

Thanks very much for your positive input.  Have found this forum a bit disappointing and very pleasant to see some support to the newcomers.  If you look at the number of views this post has had it pretty poor.  Consider I may put on an extreme headed posted to highlight the lack of support

If I moved to a tail dragger would the undercaraige have to come forward? I have an aluminium type frame and is it better to be screwed to the base or held with rubber bands.
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Hamish. I am sorry to hear you find the forum disappointing - we do try to be as friendly and helpful as possible. Looking through your recent threads, it seems to me that you actually received a pretty good response in almost all of them so I am not really sure why you are so dissapointed. As I often put in my welcome messages to newbies, filling in a little about yourself in your profile page will often produce more response to any questions asked. Your profile is completely blank. Of course, it could also be that there are simply not that many people with the answers to the specific question - I for instance have never built and flown an Arising Star.

I have flown someone else's but that is not what you specifically asked is it?

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If it helps, my first plane was the Arising Star and it is still going, had a few bangs but been a really good one to learn to fly and as David said goor value for money. I would definatly recomend it to others. the only down side I found was the receiver and servo bay was difficult to work with, that said I put it together myself without the help of experts and she still flys so no complaints from me.  
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Hi Hamish,

It's really not so easy to change a trike to a taildragger on a ready built model..Usually, the main undercarriage needs to come forward, so that the aircraft sits comfortably on it's three points. So the covering needs to come of underneath, and the fuselage reinforced where the UC is fixed.  The most common system of fixing is to install blind nuts into a 1/4 ply plate in  the base of the fuselage, and attach the UC to this

I seem to remember that the Bushwhacker from RCM&E used elastic bands to fix the UC

ernie

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Oh, and one other thing, get rid of the plastic spiner, I fitted mine with a metal one and she flys much better for it, also I have a .46 motor in mine not the .40, (Not sure if ia am alowed to say the make of the engine). the build guide also shows the switch as being inside between the servos, I found it better to put the switch on the side, but be sure to put it on the opposite side to the exhaust so it does not get covered in Oil. Mine came with 2 flimsy rubber bands for the wings and as a beginner I thiought it would be ok, (how wrong was I). Chuck them and get proper ones from your local model shop, at least 6 of them is what I use.

I think thats it for now but will have a look at the plane tonight and update tomorrow if I remember anything else 

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I converted my Boomerang (very similar model to the Arsing Star) to a tail drager and it was quite easy. I fitted the new UC further forward in line with the wing leading edge fixed with saddle clamps to a reinforcing block inside the fuselage. I slid another block into the tail end and glued it in place. Then bent up a tail wheel from piano wire and fitted it to this block.

Job done

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As I said before I am sure you will love it.  As with all models there are good and bad points and also everyone has a different opinion. the main thing is that it is the right model for you. Its a good design. reasonably well made flys on a 46 so a good engine for your next model and takes all standard radio gear. It will also easily get you through your A test and if you can fly properly using all 4 axis of the TX it will take you through the B. The same however can be said for Half a dozen other trainers. In my opinion which always starts a war the best thing to do is  buy a Chris Foss W4 classic kit,  build it yourself  fit it with a 46 and learn to fly on that on a buddy box.. Good luck. Keep the questions coming.
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Thanks very much for the various inputs.

Delighted to hear the Boomerang is a bit more robust than it appears to me.

I will leave the undercarriage as it is at the moment and if it creates a problem will change.

One problem I do foresee is the engine mount.  When I had it off to adjust for the engine it did not compair with other mounts I have.  It is attached with bolts to captivated nuts in the bulkhead therefor hole centres would need to be the same without have to alter.  Any ideas where this mount can be obtained? 

Sorry to have hijacked your posting Rodger but I'm sure you will be getting the benefits from the various inputs

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Thanks for interest.

The mount as supplied fits perfectly.

In anticipation of the inevitable crash and break of the mounting (doom and gloom me), I purchased spare mounts, the grey types by Flair suitable for the Irvine and advised by the shop as suitable for the Boomerang.  The bulkhead mounting holes do not align up to the same positions as the supplied unit. Two holes can be re-drilled to fit however two require to be drilled in new positions leaving minimum hold on the mount and possibly needing washers to provide sufficient cover and looking like a bodged job. As previously indicated the original mounts have captivated nuts, not easily accessible and therefore its easier to change the mount rather than the bulkhead

My hope was to find the type of the supplied unit, which is blue in colour (sounds like how some people buy cars)

 I do have another trainer and the Flair mounts, at  £2.75, can still be used or passed on to a newcomer at the local club. 

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I've just built one but not flown it yet. As an absolute beginner with no building experience I searched for reviews and opinions and decided it was the best buy. In retrospect I am not over impressed with my experience. The instructions for an absolute beginner are not as clear as I'd expected. There are lots of contradictions between pictures and instructions and having seen other planes at my club I am not too happy with the strength of the undercarriage (our strip is very uneven grass).

Having said all this, I am assured by fellow club members that this is the best pl\aane to start with.

I just get the feeling that all planes have similar  faults and it is to be expected.

If you do purchase just read the instructions very carefully, several times,  so that you understand what is required and proceed with caution. Despite the problems I am pleased with the final results (apart from the undercarriage).

If you have problems - ASK THROUGH THE FORUM.

If I see a thread I'll try to help

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I too have just built a Boomerang trainer and had it out on its maiden flight over a week ago. Flys like a dream. I have to agree with Geoff the instructions that come with it leave a lot to be desired, but if you read them over and over and trial fit you'll get there in the end. There are also some good club forums which help with tips on building

I have replaced the supplied wheels with 2.75" ones and found this helps with uneven grass strips ( I was having problems getting off the ground) and it beats converting to a tail dragger. The other things I would advise replacing are the wing bands and the prop spinner. Both these items leave a lot to be desired!

Apart from the above in my opinion, it's as good as any ARTF kit on the market and I will certainly consider another Seagull kit for my next project

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Hi Roger,

The Arising star and  Boomerang are similar, the Boomer has a different wing section making it better suited to aerobatics although both are excellent value for money .

Look in the beginners section on this forum and take a look at Alex Hasells build blog.

This is also a good  Boomerang blog by a guy in Aussie Boomerang build.

I have a Boomerang ,the only gripe I have is the tricycle U/C bit weak for a trainer so I converted mine to a tail dragger.

Very nice model indeed

 http://www.rchangout.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13056

http://www.rchangout.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13056

Cheers

Kelvin

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Thanks Bruce, thats given me a confidence boost.

Went down to the flying field today to hopefully get its and mine first flight.  Built it up and spent a lot of time trying to get the engine running properly.

Eventually one of the members came along and gave me the once over which was worth its weight in gold.

Suspect the engine problem may have been due to insufficient/incorrect packing around fuel tank causing the fuel to foam.  Told not to use bubble wrap and get a sponge or foam material and make sure its well located.  The Boomerang came with a small strap of wood to keep fuel tank in position and having thought about it I screwed it in position rather than glueing anticipating this type of problem.  Lucky foresight.

Battery and receiver to be in foam for same vibration problem.

Using an Irvine 40 and suggested a 11X7 prop to keep revs and noise down.

Suggested I discard the screw type fitting for holding push rods on to servo arms.  Rod to be bent at 90 degrees and held in with a plastic retaining clip, the name of which escapes me, and which he generously gave me 4 of (All as Scots are not tight fisted)

The push rod for the throttle to have a flat filed on it to ensure proper grip. The outer sleeve for the throttle push rod was not secured and could have caused a throttle problem.  Now glued at either end.

The battery to harness connection to be taped together just in case it vibrated apart.

Keep rubber band in a jar with talc powder and the will last longer

All in all this was very worthwhile time and although disappointed at not getting up delighted at the positive input.

Sorry to ramble on but hope others can gain from this information

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Flew my boomerang for the second time today ending in an aircrash investigation. Whilst about 30m up the wing twisted severley out of alingnment with the fuselage and spiraled to the deck. Looking at the cause of this the front dowel area for the elasticated wings has ripped whole "cockpit" area away.

I cant be sure wether this caused the crash or it happend on impact. I used 4 elastic bands to hold the wing on as pictured in the instructions, maybe this wasnt sufficient, ill use 8 next time. I am certain the wing twisted about 20 deg, I can only recommend reinforcing the front dowel section and using more elastic. Any ideas?

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Sorry to hear about your "adventure" but great you post here so we can all  learn.

Hope you threw out the "brown jobby" rubber bands supplied and got some good broad white ones?

I used 6 bands, 2 crossed and 4 longtidudinal,  In view of your experience will up this to 8 white bands (kept in talc - real cool on field)

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