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silver soldering


Ernie
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Hi all, I'm thinking about the joints on a piano wire undercarriage.

Usually, I bind them with fuse wire or suchlike, and soft solder them. This works fine, but, I can never get a really fine finish.

I wonder about silver soldering them, but am wary that the great heat will effect the temper/strength of the wire

Any thoughts  ernie

 

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image.thumb.jpg.6ee37830d52db20b6ee3377249430661.jpgTwo ways to help.

1. Buy some soldering braid, it’s woven copper sheath. Pull it longer and it tightens in the joint, which solder on for a nice finish.

2. Clip the joint. Get a piece of brass tube, slit it down its length threw one wall, and open it out with a screwdriver, so it will just spring over the joint, and as it goes over, it self clamps over the joint. Solder it up.

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           Used MIG welder to modify UC for suspension on Bristol fighter I am fixing up. 

         When it comes to the effect of temperature on most metals they will return to their normal state if allowed to cool naturally.  Sudden cooling / quenching can result in hardening and or it becoming brittle.

Bristol UC.JPG

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59 minutes ago, Ernie said:

thanks to all of you, I'll give it a go, and report back

ernie

 

This is the way I was shown in Tech College Earnie, and it works for me as it reduces the three hands that you need to do any job.

Clamps, that hold the job, but can be released later are a great help in not having wire in your joint.

All clean, as the lads say, and brush some wet flux in the joint/ joints

Now add the Pallions,

Small pellets of Silver Solder that you have cut from your rod, 3mm is ok

Place these along your joint, perhaps 2mm gaps between pallions.

Now you have no need to feed in the silver solder and have your hands free to sort the heat.

Heat the undercarriage near to the joint to red heat and watch the solder flow

Having placed the solder 1st, then you cannot add to much by feeding in too much.

Allow to air cool and all will be well

Edited by Denis Watkins
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