Stephen Grigg Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 I recently took up model flying or in my case model crashing.To assist myself in model repairing I decided to build a kit made up of sticks and planks instead of ARTF. Every thing has gone well,Ive managed to unstick the bits in the wrong place where theyd obviously got it wrong onthe plan,it wasnt me was it? Then of course I did haveto take responsability for the two left fuselarge sides,but did somehow manage to split one with all fingers intact.Now here is my broblem.Ive built the tank box with the built in side and down thrust,and i have slid it into place. this leaves some of the box protruding, and I seethe 2 thrust angles required,but how far in do I push the box in and how much prorusion do I leave?I see that the square in the firewall is the same size as the box so buttsto it which will angle the fire wall but then the engine bearers slide into the box and the only thing that attaches to the firewall are the bearer supports.The firewall is shown as butting directly onto the second firewall but is this correct as ththrut angles should surely leave a small gap ?could I have some help please ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 StephenUnfortunately I can not give you any building advise but hopefully can give you encouragement.I started out with a Boomerang and whilst it looks a super model I had my reservation about its sturdiness. Unfortunately that did not get tested as it virtually self destructed, in a manner which no plane would have survived on its second outing (Was hooked up to BuddyBox). I looked around for a model that was not going to be so responsive and more forgiving. I picked up a ready made well built Magnatilla for an absolute song complete with all servos and an OS 40 FS.I have been up three times with it and it is an absolute dream for the learner. It is so stable and does not jump about all over the place. On my third flight, in total, I landed it and I have to say with the model and the hours I have put in on a flight simulator this was so easy.If you could post photos of the areas you are enquiring about I can easily measure and give you feedback.Whatever you do, do not give up on this model as all your time spent will be rewarded and more so. I have an SE5a that I have been building for a number of years now and am tying to get it finished. If this project was not ongoing I would consider the Magnatilla. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 Hi Stephen, Go for it...It's a flair kit isn't it?...My experience is that both their drawings and instructions are very good...It's difficult to understand exactly what your problems are, maybe you could send some pictures, then we could helpernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted November 28, 2008 Author Share Posted November 28, 2008 Yes its a Flair kit,It doesnt show how far back the tank box should go,and the thrust angles are from that box.I,ll do asEric suggests andpush it in to leave F1 at those angles.I didnt want to build aproblem into the fuselage that could not be trimmed out after wards or modified with washers if necessary afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 11, 2008 Author Share Posted December 11, 2008 The unfotunate demise of my Protech Azzura has decided me to use a couple of ideas in the magnatila.Im going to fit 2 aerolon servos instead of 1 centre one in the wings using the trap doors from the protech .I just have to make a frame in the wing to scew them onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted December 11, 2008 Share Posted December 11, 2008 Good idea, It's easier to set them up, and you can use them as flaps to slow down the airspeed..Not very WW1 but useful neverthelessernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Im having second thoughts on the engine.Iwas given a Leo46 witha dagostini kit,having read how unreliable they can be on another thread im considering a new 4 stroke.A member of the flying club gave me a 1974 Graupener maxi,built like a tank and i could put the leo in that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 This is thstage of the magnatila Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Hi Stephen, If you have an engine that is not reliable, then the only place for it is in the bin..Why not set up your engine on a test stand, and check it out on he bench. Just Engines do a test stand for just under £15 4 strokes are lovely things. not so fast reving as a 2 stroke, but quieter, and a good noise (it that's your thing) just engines do an ASP 51 for a whisker over £88. But, I can't say it enough, a dud engine is a constant source of fustration, and of course it always gives up at a critical point in the flighternie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Hi Stephen Looks really good, definately needs a 4 stroke....you could put a pylon and some fake bracing wires above the cockpit to make it look more scale. Try google images, and tap in fokker eindecker to give you an idea..What are you covering it with? Not the awful film,I hope....solartex is just the job, and it's oh so easy to applyernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 12, 2008 Author Share Posted December 12, 2008 Thanks Ernie Yes ,the solatex just arrived but no servos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 13, 2008 Author Share Posted December 13, 2008 Servos arrived today so IM pressing on with the wings tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ifittedthe servos in the wings last evening,it went very well. Ive put them at the top because of the big gap you get between aerolon and servo at the bottom.I just have to work out a suitable working angle for the horn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 14, 2008 Author Share Posted December 14, 2008 Ifittedthe servos in the wings last evening,it went very well. Ive put them at the top because of the big gap you get between aerolon and wing at the bottom.I just have to work out a suitable working angle for the horn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 I did the platforms for the horns last night and the centre of the I did the centre of the wing and tidied the worktop as you can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 I did the platforms for the horns last night and the centre of the wing and tidied the worktop as you can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Model looks great and glad you are keeping us in the picture.The servo arms are on the underside of the wing on my Magnitilla. Other than appearance, can an expert tell if it will make any difference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 15, 2008 Author Share Posted December 15, 2008 It seems not so im starting a new trend SERVO on TOP. A friend has his on top on an Eindekker, because it fliies or is it flys better that way,takes longer to take off-He fits the wing upside down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 17, 2008 Author Share Posted December 17, 2008 I started my first kit build because I had anew Leo 46 and wanted something to put it into. I never realised how personal a build becomes,you want things roght and th phrase measure twice cut once really starts to have meaning.Reading a thread on the Leo engine I started to get a bit worried as to how reliable this engine is,some had caused problems ahen being run in .So,im not prepared to sacrifice this build .with this in mind I purchased a Thunder tiger Pro 46 .i have already found a project for the Leo. A 1974 Apollo by Graupner that may not have been flownSomeone was going to use it as a an engine test bed so Im putting it to better use.I purchased some parts for the Magnatilla so I intend on carrying on thf build this evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 Stephen May I suggest a few triangular gussets where the fuselage meets the TE area of your wing I've recommended it before on the Puppeteer & received positive feedback That is if you havn't covered it yet .Just a thought ! Nice "proper" build . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 Thanks Myron,Ispent all evening doing the control rods and as I was finishing the 2nd it split, any hints! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 If you haven't solved your thrust problem yet, the hardwood engine bearers in Flair kits are set to the correct angles. As long as they are fitted in the way Flair say you should be fine.Ailerons on the top of the wing don't work any differently to those underneath, but I put mine underneath so everything was more concealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted December 19, 2008 Share Posted December 19, 2008 StephenIf its a balsa square type control rod all I can suggest is a dosing of PVA and wind some cotton over the split -It won't break there again Do I summise you didnt drill a pilot hole for the piano wire/clevis arrangement in the wood & maybe not groove it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Grigg Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share Posted December 19, 2008 The plan and kit did use square balsa but it looked a bit tight inthe fuselage,and soft so I bought dowel instead.I drilled a hole but in cutting the groove the end of the dowel split twice.However Last night I successfully made 2 pushrods and using Epoxy glued and bound the ends in place.I also using Solatex covered 1 side of the stabilider so ill carry on with covering tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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