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Peggy Sue 2


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I've put my build reports here.


I decided to start on the wing first so made 3D print models of the ribs to use as templates to cut around. Holes through the ribs were formed by using a piece of alloy tubing with a sharpened end, (you can see it in the photo next to the modelling knife).






The wing is conventional construction so starts with laying out and pinning down the underside sheeting followed by the spars and then the ribs.






The balsa stripper I 3D printed in lockdown 1 (top left in this picture, orange) came in really handy as 1/16th sheet needed to be cut to various widths. I used the rolled paper technique to provide the ‘conduit’ to run the servo cables through.




Wing tips and false LE added.




Then finally the topside sheeting and rib capping were added but not before a lot of head scratching over how it would all come together at the wing tips as Peter’s plans are not very accurate in this area! The wing was then removed from the building board and the lower sheeting added. Note that I had to radial cut the LE sheeting to make it follow the contours of the complex tip curvature!




My preferred method of mounting wing servos is by means of 3D printed mounting frames.






Now whilst these can have covering film applied to them quite easily, one of the colour schemes I’m thinking of will use transparent film on parts of the wings so I need these servo plates to appear the same as sheet balsa. I therefore skinned them with 1/16th balsa.








And fitted them to the wings.








So now the only thing left to do on the wings is to sand them down ready for covering.

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Next, the fuselage.


With the wings put to one side it was time to make a start on the fuselage. This is a traditional stick balsa framework, one side built on top of the plans then the other built on top of that remembering to put some clear film in between the two to prevent them becoming joined together.




Second side on top of the first




A bit of sanding may be required, not all 1/4 square balsa is 1/4 square!




Once these were dry they were removed from the board, separated and 1/32nd ply doublers were cut and stuck to them, making sure that I ended up with right and left fuselage sides!




First of all I had to cut out the cabin window surrounds from 1/32nd ply (my fingers hurt!) then, as I had 3D printed the formers I decided to reprint one as I had used black filament  and if I use a transparent film for the fuselage then black would be a bit harsh. So I printed it again this time in grey but I also hollowed out the former to save a bit of weight.


I decided to use my magnetic building board for this step as it allows easy adjustment to make sure things are square.


First side with the formers attached.




Then, once dry I attached the other side.




As I’m going to be installing an electric setup, rather than I/C (Laser don’t make a small motor to add to my collection!) I had to build a motor box. Fortunately I’ve got a couple of laser cut ones in my spares box and they are adjustable! so having assembled one and cut out slots for the mounting lugs in the engine bulkhead / former I glued them together, a lot easier to do this before attaching the former to the fuselage.






Then it was a case of pulling the sides together at the rear then adding the cross braces which is where the magnetic board came into its own ensuring that everything was square and upright.




The basic framework is now ready to receive the stringers. I’ve also fitted the ply U/C mounting plates and balsa side plates to support the servo rails.



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Continuing with the fuselage.


Stringers added.




Cabin window frames added together with U/C, remaining stringers, wing fixing plates and softwood infills.




Servo tray and snakes in




Close up of UC fixing and saddles, note the ply plates for fixing the top 'leg' of the UC (hole drilled into sheet).




Snake supports added.




Top view of plywood wing mounting plates.




Tail pieces cut ready for sanding.





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Fitted the motor to the adjustable motor mount.




As my version of PS2 was to be electric, as well as the motor mounting I had to make a battery access hatch which I decided to make as the top part of the nose. Part formers were 3D printed and the removable hatch made with a combination of the 3D formers and balsa stringers and sheeting.








After a lot of sanding it was down to the covering, no action shots as the pictures speak for themselves. One thing I did do to help with sanding the wing was to 3D print a LE profile sanding block.






Wing all ready for covering






After covering the fuselage I cut out the windows ready to receive the acetate windows.




The tailskid was fitted as per Peter Miller’s drawings, using a flattened piece of brass tube, which was a new one on me but I will use the idea again! It was also time to fit the control horns and pushrods plus the radio gear.




Then the ESC, note the cooling holes for the battery.




I then turned my attention to the battery mounting tray, 3D printed of course.




Large enough to hold the 4S LiPos!




And the battery hatch, held on with magnets.






Rather than build the cowl from balsa I had a go at 3D printing it.




So that was the build complete, just a couple of shots of the completed model






All of the above was nearly 2 years ago and PS2 has been flown a lot since then. It is everything Peter has said and more, a truly great model.

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Mine will be electric with a 4S LiPo, too, so it's good to see that the battery access is relatively easy and it doesn't seem to be too hard to get the CoG in the right place.


I have a brand new G46 motor sitting in a cupboard.  I think that should be adequate (and it needs to be used, I've had it for several years).  What motor is yours, Ron?  I couldn't quite make it out in your otherwise useful photos.   Am I right in thinking that there is zero dihedral?

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I can't remember the motor model so will have a look when I go up to the workshop later.


Regarding C of G, I have added more and more tail weight to get it to how I like it, un reflection I could have mounted the tail servos in the tail like I did with the Sig Rascal. And yes, there is no dihedral!

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1 hour ago, Geoff S said:

Mine will be electric with a 4S LiPo, too, so it's good to see that the battery access is relatively easy and it doesn't seem to be too hard to get the CoG in the right place.


I have a brand new G46 motor sitting in a cupboard.  I think that should be adequate (and it needs to be used, I've had it for several years).  What motor is yours, Ron?  I couldn't quite make it out in your otherwise useful photos.   Am I right in thinking that there is zero dihedral?

Geoff, I am the lucky guardian of Peter's original Peggy Sue 2. I converted it to electric, and obviously had to work with what was there. I made a hatch similar to Ron's so the screen comes off with it, and fly mine on 4S 3700 packs. I use a 4250 560kv motor turning a 14x6, IIRC. It has enough with this set up, but not too much. And I get 8 minutes per flight, which is longer than my attention span!


It's not at all sensitive to the CofG. Mine balances fine, and to demonstrate I managed to dislodge the battery during a snap roll (PS2 does these incredibly well, but my, are they quick!). The hatch exited stage left, the battery popped out and hung by the cable, coming to an uneasy rest against the undercarriage. I spotted this, and came in for an uneventful landing. 


I then had a sit down...


Suffice to say, the battery is very well secured now, but also the model will fly with a variety of battery locations. Some are recommended more than others...



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17 hours ago, Geoff S said:

Looks like my G46 670 rpm/v should fit the bill, perhaps with a smaller prop than yours, Graham.  I think I'll opt for a battery location inside the fuselage, though 🙂

When I built mine I used an SK3 3548 840kv motor, a 3300mAh battery and a 12x6 prop. Max current with a fresh battery is 50-55a. Flies a treat. 9-10 minutes flight time.

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3 hours ago, Andy48 said:

When I built mine I used an SK3 3548 840kv motor, a 3300mAh battery and a 12x6 prop. Max current with a fresh battery is 50-55a. Flies a treat. 9-10 minutes flight time.

That's the set up I am thinking to use on 4S battery and 60 amp ESC. Good to know it flies a treat.



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13 hours ago, Andy48 said:

No 4S. Gives just over 50a max on a fresh battery.

That's more good news for me as I have this exact setup in another model which flew fine but could do with more power. I will swap the 3548 and a new G46 so the G46 goes in the old model and the 3548 in Peggy Sue 2. As it happens I have 4S batteries from 2200 to 4000 so loads of choice.

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