Scratch Built SE5a

[Greyhead46]

Whilst not being able to get on with any substantial building I’ve contented myself with a couple of instruments: radiator temperature and air pressure. The housings for these are identical, just the dials are different, so once one was done it was a case of “cut and paste”.

The unit consists of the dial and back plate printed as one unit on glossy photo paper and glued onto 1/64th ply, a plastic ring and a disc of acetate. It’s easier to finish the “rounding” of the back plate after everything is glued together.#

Without the ring the unit looks like this.

With the ring added the unit looks so much more realistic! The photo doesn’t really show the difference to its full effect.



The instrument labels are simply cut out and glued in place, the wording is quite easy to read. Here’s a photo of the instrument panel so far, you can get a good idea of the size of the individual instruments from this shot.

 

 

The panel fixers are made using a variation of the “glue drop rivet” system; in this case the glue is mixed with brass paint with a little matt black to tarnish it. With only one more instrument to make for this half of the panel it’s time to glue the instruments in place.         

Edited March 13, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

To finish off the left hand side all that’s required is the petrol selector.

The first job is to turn a knob from obeche; no mini lathe being available I used my Dremmel in a homemade horizontal stand and a couple of needle files.



The knob is glued to a cocktail stick for easy handling during the preparation and to use as a spigot when gluing to the panel itself.



Once again the back plate is a simple printout glued to 1/64th ply.



The term instrument panel seems a bit of a misnomer; of the 5 “instruments” on this side of the panel only 2 are what I would call instruments but it has certainly made for an interesting build so far.

Here’s another shot of the panel that shows how the acetate sheet in front of the dials brings the whole lot “alive”.

[Graham Davies 3]

Brilliant work Grahame. I'm starting to obsess waiting for the next post! This must be how normal people that watch telly are like with serials...

 

Graham

[Basil]

16 hours ago, Greyhead46 said:

To finish off the left hand side all that’s required is the petrol selector.

The first job is to turn a knob from obeche; no mini lathe being available I used my Dremmel in a homemade horizontal stand and a couple of needle files.



The knob is glued to a cocktail stick for easy handling during the preparation and to use as a spigot when gluing to the panel itself.



Once again the back plate is a simple printout glued to 1/64th ply.



The term instrument panel seems a bit of a misnomer; of the 5 “instruments” on this side of the panel only 2 are what I would call instruments but it has certainly made for an interesting build so far.

Here’s another shot of the panel that shows how the acetate sheet in front of the dials brings the whole lot “alive”.

Speechless, what work, what patience.

Bas

[Greyhead46]

Hello Graham & Bas

 

Thanks for the replies and here's your "fix" for the day Graham.

 

Grahame

 

 

The rear spars don’t go through the fuselage, they are just keyed into the ply ribs, the inner one has a doubler for the rear section. I had been a little concerned that this might weaken the wing stubs too much but with the 1/64th ply covering tying everything together they’re as solid as a rock



The slot is for the rear flying wires, which pass through the wing stubs into the fuselage. As these will have to be threaded through each time the model is rigged I will eventually build in some form of guide tubes but I’ll leave this until the model is test rigged before covering to ensure they’re in the correct position.

This underside photo shows the hole through which the wires enter the fuselage; it will have a piano wire “bearing” to prevent the wires cutting into the fuselage side.



The snake outer for the aileron control is securely attached with a few wraps of carbon fibre tows.

 

The right hand side of the instrument panel wasn’t such a challenge.

The 3 dials are just “variations on a theme” and with 2 being bigger made things that much easier, the hand pump is a .22 cartridge with spruce handle and the flight plan holder is simply printed out twice and assembled decoupage style.



I quite like the “broken glass“ on the oil pressure gauge; a purely accidental scratch but I think very effective and true to life!

Metal panels have in the past caused me problems, but the method I devised for the air pump selector back plate has worked equally as well for the brass identification plate. That is reversing the image, printing it onto a transparency and painting the back with metallic paint; it certainly looks brass and not yellow

The complete panel. Just the compass needed before fitting to the model.

 

And finally a thank you to everyone for the positive feedback, it certainly encourages me to continue posting.  Not that I need all that much encouragement; I find it very useful to recap on the build, I quite often think of a better way to do things so it helps to generate new ideas for the next model.

 

 

[Greyhead46]

The cabane struts need cladding, for this I’ve used 3 layers of 1/16th balsa glued together, the centre layer “cross grain”.

 

Cladding around metal always seems to move; well mine does anyway! The first pin was primarily to stop this but I decided that another pin through the joint for the top tube wouldn’t go amiss.

 

The slot is “rounded” to fit the struts then with 5-minute epoxy, sanded to a streamlined shape, filled and then sanded again.



The top decking from the tank cover to the rear of the cockpit and cladding of the rear cabane struts can’t be done until the instrument panel and all the controls etc. are fitted so it’s time to continue with the rear fuselage. As I mentioned before the rear fuselage is made from 1/8th square spruce and as such is very light but quite fragile, all the joints have had biscuits added which strengthens things up considerably but it was still very flexible.

Flexible is good if you hit something solid, things bend not break; but flexible isn’t so good if it allows the fin and tail plane to move relative to the wings whilst flying! On the full size they used wire braces but button thread will suffice for a model.



Each section has a cross of thread; the very rear sections will be done after the fin and tail plane mounting is completed. The thread is locked with a drop of cyano at the corners and cross over points; and then given a coat of shrinking dope to finally tighten everything up.



The rear fuselage is now solid and hopefully any too heavy landing will not break a longeron!

[Greyhead46]

The first former is made from 2 layers of 1/16th balsa glued together “cross grained”, this is a good method when some extra strength is required but it doesn’t warrant ply of even lite ply; it has a 1/64th ply facing on the cockpit side. The other notched former is from 1/8th lite ply as this is also the front fin support. The centre former is also “cross grained” balsa as half the stringers actually end at this point.



Only 2 formers are fully notched because it is very easy to slightly miss align the slots, which results in wavy stringers, not a pretty sight!

The centreline stringer initially holds everything in place. I wanted to use spruce for the stringers but none was available and the model shop didn’t have any idea when they could get any so I’ve used basswood; I don’t think it’s as resilient as spruce but needs must!



The fin rear post is only fitted temporarily; the fuselage end plates have been made oversize to hold the fin post and will be finally shaped when all the stringers are in place.

    

The centre stringer has had rear doublers and metal brackets fitted for attaching the fin; now to cut the extra slots and fit the rest of the stringers.

A length of cotton is stretched tight between the 2 formers already notched, the intervening formers marked and the slots cut using the Dremell with a cutting disc.



The stringers are added symmetrically; long right, long left, short right, short left and so on, this helps to avoid any unwanted twists in the fuselage.



The stringers stand proud of the formers apart from the first 2½, which will be ply covered, several of the stringers will eventually be removed from this area to save weight. But for now they add vital strength and it’s easier to get things even if all the stringers start from the same point.

[Greyhead46]

Over the last few weeks I’ve been doing a lot of thinking and considerable experimenting with rib stitching before committing to the actual model. Unfortunately the photos I took don’t really show anything of note; white thread on natural Solatex just doesn’t show up any differences!

The first question was “do I want to stitch the fabric?” – No I don’t; it will be a fiddly, time consuming job that will add weight but won’t add significantly to the scale appearance. In fact, as I later found out, at this scale and it must be said with my lack of expertise, the rib stitching looked less like the real thing than the simulated stitching.

So, “do I need to stitch the fabric?” – Yes I do; I know many people have no trouble with under cambered wings but I’ve had the covering pull away on a glider and with a model of this complexity it’s just not worth the risk!

I tried full stitching; as I had predicted very fiddly and time consuming and it didn’t look that good.

In the end I decided to just “wrap” the thread around the ribs without any knots, each stitch fixed with a drop of cyano. I find the easiest way is use a strip of paper with the stitch spacing marked on it placed along side the rib, make a hole in the appropriate position next to the rib using a pin, then use these holes to pass the needle and thread through.

The centre section is fabric covered on the underside from the front spars to the trailing edge

 

 

 and sheeted to the rear spar on the top; before the sheeting is fitted it shows how I’m doing the stitching.

 

 

Edited March 15, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

The centre section has had the top ply added and the covering finished. The rib stitching works well and was no problem to do. With the top frayed rib tape added it really looks the part, the under tape, which I’ve never used before, is quite visible and adds a lot to the finished effect.

 

 

Frayed tapes are nowhere near as complicated to make as serrated ones but there is a technique.

The Solatex is marked at the correct width, a small nick made with a sharp blade and the strips torn from the sheet; this ensures that the edges follow the material weave. Discard the first strip with only one torn edge; it will most probably be tapered anyway, then make another nick close to the edge and “tease out” a couple of threads, repeat for the other edge and you have a perfect frayed edged rib tape ready for ironing in place.

Edited March 15, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

With the centre section removed for covering it’s the idea time to wrap the front cabane struts.

First of all the struts are given a coat of Solalac Clearcoat, which I’ve used for years to help the Solatex to stick.

I know the “industry standard” is Balsaloc, which I’ve also used, but in my opinion it’s nowhere near as good. With Clearcoat the Solatex won’t lift but if you do ever want to remove it, a run over the join with the iron and it can be peeled back without lifting the balsa fibres then rejoined as good as new. When the wing spars in my Albatos Dva broke I removed the entire wing covering from both wings, repaired the spars and then replaced the original covering; saved having to do all that paint work again!

It has another advantage in that the Clearcoat and the Solatex adhesive will bond without the use of the iron. It doesn’t “grab” immediately but if held in close contact it sticks after a few hours. This proved very useful for the base of the cabane struts where there is no chance of applying the iron.



I gave the struts a quick blast with the heat gun just to speed up the bond.

Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2016

As I have just started the altimeter here’s a “blow by blow” description; I hope you don’t find it too boring!

I won’t go into the intricacies of Photoshop, but using mainly copy & paste, rotate and distort, the original photo is manipulated to produce an acceptable image with a resolution of 1200 pixels / inch. This is printed on photo paper and glued onto 1/64th ply; you now have to be very patient and wait for the glue and paper to be completely dry.
 

Cut out, not too close to the image and then sand away all the surrounding material. I use a sanding disc in my Dremel for this but it’s delicate work so be careful and turn the speed to its lowest setting, if you don’t have variable speed it might be advisable to do the last bit by hand. Whichever way you use be sure to always sand downwards away from the dial face, it’s all too easy to delaminate the photo paper.



A cocktail stick and a piece of blue tack make a good holder whilst the edge is painted. Now you have to find or make a suitable ring; a search through the “useful items “ box will often yield a result, in this case the top from an air freshener refill, failing that start from scratch with a piece of Plasticard or similar material. Incidentally the rings for the smaller instruments were the coloured identification rings from electric toothbrush heads; I never throw anything away!



The ring is now painted and stuck to some acetate using “canopy glue”, which dries transparent, the excess trimmed away and the edge repainted.



All that’s left to do now is to make the adjusting knob, from some plastic sprue, and assemble the parts.

It seems to have taken longer to do this post than it did to actually make the instrument but I’m sure that’s not really the case!!!

 

I’ve just spent 3 “modelling” days making the compass and I think it says a lot about scale modellers. Whilst many “sports” modellers voice their appreciation of my models it’s often suffixed with “but why bother?”; well all I can say is “if you feel the need to ask I can’t explain it to you” but I can fully understand their point, the model won’t fly any better (most likely worse with the added weight) and the details will only be visible if you peer into the innards of the model.

(With the benefit of hindsight I should have made it easily removable so I could continue to work on it without holding up the main construction because after multiple failures trying to make the “workings”, against my own advice, I used a photo and I have to admit the compass is the one part of the finished model that I’m not happy with.)

The pilots eye view of the instrument panel. The altimeter is on the right and a clock (another bigger cartridge) is on the left.



I now think the panel is finished but I’m sure I’ll find a few more things to do to it before it finally gets covered with the cockpit decking. Every time I look at the photos of the full size I notice something new but at the moment I don’t consider them worth the trouble adding but that always seems to change!

 

[Greyhead46]

Just to add substance to my last post about things developing after being “finished” here’s a photo of the compass now with its light!

 

As this is a retrospective thread I’ll do the “time warp” and post a shot of the finished model. Notice the turn indicator, it’s never finished until it’s finished!
 

[Basil]

1 hour ago, Greyhead46 said:

With the centre section removed for covering it’s the idea time to wrap the front cabane struts.

First of all the struts are given a coat of Solalac Clearcoat, which I’ve used for years to help the Solatex to stick.

I know the “industry standard” is Balsaloc, which I’ve also used, but in my opinion it’s nowhere near as good. With Clearcoat the Solatex won’t lift but if you do ever want to remove it, a run over the join with the iron and it can be peeled back without lifting the balsa fibres then rejoined as good as new. When the wing spars in my Albatos Dva broke I removed the entire wing covering from both wings, repaired the spars and then replaced the original covering; saved having to do all that paint work again!

It has another advantage in that the Clearcoat and the Solatex adhesive will bond without the use of the iron. It doesn’t “grab” immediately but if held in close contact it sticks after a few hours. This proved very useful for the base of the cabane struts where there is no chance of applying the iron.



I gave the struts a quick blast with the heat gun just to speed up the bond.

Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2016

As I have just started the altimeter here’s a “blow by blow” description; I hope you don’t find it too boring!

I won’t go into the intricacies of Photoshop, but using mainly copy & paste, rotate and distort, the original photo is manipulated to produce an acceptable image with a resolution of 1200 pixels / inch. This is printed on photo paper and glued onto 1/64th ply; you now have to be very patient and wait for the glue and paper to be completely dry.
 

Cut out, not too close to the image and then sand away all the surrounding material. I use a sanding disc in my Dremel for this but it’s delicate work so be careful and turn the speed to its lowest setting, if you don’t have variable speed it might be advisable to do the last bit by hand. Whichever way you use be sure to always sand downwards away from the dial face, it’s all too easy to delaminate the photo paper.



A cocktail stick and a piece of blue tack make a good holder whilst the edge is painted. Now you have to find or make a suitable ring; a search through the “useful items “ box will often yield a result, in this case the top from an air freshener refill, failing that start from scratch with a piece of Plasticard or similar material. Incidentally the rings for the smaller instruments were the coloured identification rings from electric toothbrush heads; I never throw anything away!



The ring is now painted and stuck to some acetate using “canopy glue”, which dries transparent, the excess trimmed away and the edge repainted.



All that’s left to do now is to make the adjusting knob, from some plastic sprue, and assemble the parts.

It seems to have taken longer to do this post than it did to actually make the instrument but I’m sure that’s not really the case!!!

 

I’ve just spent 3 “modelling” days making the compass and I think it says a lot about scale modellers. Whilst many “sports” modellers voice their appreciation of my models it’s often suffixed with “but why bother?”; well all I can say is “if you feel the need to ask I can’t explain it to you” but I can fully understand their point, the model won’t fly any better (most likely worse with the added weight) and the details will only be visible if you peer into the innards of the model.

(With the benefit of hindsight I should have made it easily removable so I could continue to work on it without holding up the main construction because after multiple failures trying to make the “workings”, against my own advice, I used a photo and I have to admit the compass is the one part of the finished model that I’m not happy with.)

The pilots eye view of the instrument panel. The altimeter is on the right and a clock (another bigger cartridge) is on the left.



I now think the panel is finished but I’m sure I’ll find a few more things to do to it before it finally gets covered with the cockpit decking. Every time I look at the photos of the full size I notice something new but at the moment I don’t consider them worth the trouble adding but that always seems to change!

 

You know why you bother, and I can fully understand why, but I have not got the patience.I wish I had.

Bas

[Geoff S]

I've just received the drawings and CNC parts for the Peter Miller Fokker DVIII that featured in March's RCME.  I just don't have it in me to attempt a detailed scale finish like this but there's a few useful pointers I'll certainly use on my sport-scale model.  I've been in the modelling doldrums this winter unable to raise the enthusiasm to do much and this is an attempt to get something done 🙂 It'll probably be a 4S LiPo powered model to suit a motor I have in stock.

 

Whatever my DVIII ends up like, I'm enjoying reading and marvelling at Greyhead's SE5a build.

[Engine Doctor]

I agree with you entirely about Clearcote over balsalock . I always use it as aadehesive enhancer for any covering. Loverly job 👍

[Albert Ace]

Lovely build, what Kit/Plan is this please ??

Albert Ace

[Albert Ace]

Ive re read the entries; its your own plan at 58inch span yes ??

Oh, by the way YOURE VERY GOOD. 

Albert Ace

[Greyhead46]

Thanks for the replies.

 

Geoff

 

A 4S LiPo power makes things quite a bit easier to operate and a lot less messy but my only "gripe" would be the noise (or lack of it). I'm not really into electric but I believe you can get sound modules maybe one with Le Rhone, that would be good!

 

Grahame

 

Now this proved to be an “interesting” exercise, which after several failures eventually proved to be surprisingly quick and simple. The cockpit has aluminium coaming so litho plate is the obvious choice of material but fabricating the channel section stretched my imagination somewhat! I’ll not go into the failures just the final easy and successful method.

The litho plate is clamped against a steel rule using a piece of 1x1 as a backing.



The edge is bent over and the corner filed through using a fine file.



Carefully rolling the dressmakers copy tool along the litho plate produces a nice line of “rivets”.



The long side is trimmed to form an "L" section then using the cockpit as a template the edging is eased into shape; a lot easier than I thought it would be!



With a bead of 5-minute epoxy applied to the edge of the cockpit the aluminium edge is glued in place and the side "tucked under";I think it really finishes the cockpit off.



A point about my previously “finished” instrument panel; whilst investigating the differing layouts, I noticed on one photo that under the compass there is a level flight indicator. Although I have several detailed photos of the original panel taken from different viewpoints, on all of them the control column is blocking the view of the level flight indicator, which is in the shadow cast by the compass. Now I know that it’s there I can see it, although not very clearly; it has now been added to the model and as per full sized it doesn’t show up all that well, even without the control column.

Edited March 17, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

One problem that has been causing my some concern is the way the top fabric is fixed to the longerons; they appear to use some sort of dome head fixing which shows through the side fabric. The only way I could think of was the “drop of glue” method after all the covering has been applied, but as I said earlier I’m not keen. Why they don’t use flat heads and make life easier for us modellers I’ve no idea!

Whilst searching the shops for something suitable as a basis for making the trim wheel, I came across some very small beads, about ½ mm diameter, which should do the trick if glued to the longerons before the covering is ironed on. These were sold in a haberdashery shop and are for decorating home-made birthday cards I think. I must admit that I get some peculiar looks as I rummage through the boxes in these shops, the other customers are invariably women; the things we do in the name of aeromodelling!

Back to the trim wheel, I couldn’t find anything so had to resort to building from scratch; I printed some templates on self-adhesive labels and cut out 3 blanks from 1/32 ply.



These were assembled, the rim marked at 18º intervals and half circles filed out. It didn’t work out as accurately as I’d like but a bit of filling using epoxy and micro balloons made all the difference. After 4 coats of sanding sealer it’s ready for painting.



A coat of silver Solalac, with a few extras the end result is good enough, especially as it will be mounted low down on the fuselage side so only the top section, as shown below, will be clearly visible.

Edited March 17, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

With the majority of the cockpit furniture ready I’ve started on the decking from the tank cover to the cockpit, which is not as straightforward as it might be!

The decking from the tank to about 1/3rd of the way back along the cockpit opening tapers up then it tapers down towards the tail; add to this the fact that there are no formers, only stiffeners, and you can appreciate the problem. I decided the only practical way was to make a jig and build it off the model, as there is a transparent inspection hatch for the Vickers I can’t cheat and add hidden formers.



The cut outs are where the stiffeners fit and you can see by the differing formers how the curvature of the decking has to change.

I clamped a layer of 1/64th ply in position on the jig, gave it a generous coating of watered down aliphatic glue, applied glue to another layer of 1/64th ply and clamped them together.



Then I left it overnight to really dry; in the morning I got a pleasant surprise when I removed the clamps, it held its shape, a bonus I wasn’t expecting.



With the success of the layering technique I decided to try making the stiffeners from 3 layers of 1/32nd ply; the first one is a complete “hoop”. The decking is covered with Clingfilm and the laminations held with small wedges.



Once again I’ll leave it overnight.

         #155

The stiffener has worked well and far more evident is the differing lengths of the laminations; with using 3 pieces of 1/32nd ply the inner lamination is about ¼ " shorter than the outer. When these are glued together it helps to explain why they hold the shape.

Before I can make the other 2 sets of stiffeners I’ve got to cut out the cockpit opening in order to alter the curvature of the decking; transferring the top and side views of the opening onto the curved decking isn’t such an easy task. I’ll tape some paper to the decking and then use a lot of trial and error until I get an acceptable outline, make a template from this and only then commit to cutting the wood after checking again that everything looks right.
 

I must say that the stiffener looks and does its job a lot better that I thought it would.

But I have inadvertently caused myself a bit of a problem; with the decking being that much stiffer it’s quite difficult to get the sides to conform to the correct shape. It doesn’t look much in this photo but you’re trying to bend the ply two ways



With hind sight I should have cut the cockpit opening in both layers before I glued them together and clamped them to the rear former as they dried; I’m sure I’ll get it sorted even if I have to make the back section take up all the change in curvature, not scale but I’m sure no one will notice.

 

I think I was a bit hasty with the last bit of the last post; the curvature isn’t that far out so I’m sure I’ll be able to bend the sides to the correct shape. After all we really build these models for our own satisfaction don't we? It just “took the wind out of my sails” a bit; thinking how well the decking had turned out being that rigid and then to realise that in actual fact it had caused a problem!

 

[Greyhead46]

(This is where another modeller who was reading the original thread, thanks Barry, came to the rescue. He suggested using ammonia instead of water to make the wood more pliable.)

Before I tried the ammonia on the real decking I experimented with the piece I’d cut out for the cockpit opening.



As I needed to tighten the curve that’s what I tried, as you can see it did indeed hold its new shape, but the fumes are bad, definitely a job for outdoors!

What is not evident from the photo is just how pliable the wood became using ammonia instead of water and I only brushed it on, I didn’t leave it soaking as I would have done with water.

Having satisfied myself that this was the way to go I tried it on the decking but this time I will leave it over night to thoroughly dry.



I really like this “reverse” jig idea, I’m sure this method will get a lot of use in the future.

 

Now that the decking is the correct shape it’s time to try and fit it. In order to work around the cabane struts and bracing wires the holes have had to be made quite large, these will be filled after the decking is permanently fitted, but it’s still a bit awkward.



On full size they remove the cabane struts and bracing wires, fit and cover the decking then re-fit them, unfortunately at this size we don’t have the luxury of being able to climb inside to tighten up the nuts!

The instrument panel is a good fit and looks quite “busy” when it’s buried in the fuselage; this is when the shadows and highlights really bring it alive.



It’ll look a bit busier with the clock, altimeter and throttle, which are fitted on the cockpit coaming, and the switch box fitted to the side decking, not forgetting the control column.

    

[Greyhead46]

I’ll wait and see how much is visible before I decide whether or not to include rudder pedals etc.; weight always has to be a consideration. It’s a bit of a “chicken & egg” situation as the decking has to be in position to check what’s visible but the detailing has to be added before the decking, although the pedals may be able to be fitted from below.

 

Cutting the inspection hatch and the opening for the Vickers involves marking and cutting straight lines on a curved surface. A good help for this is to use the plastic “banding” that is used to hold cardboard cartons together, these hold their straight edge but easily follow the curve.



Another useful item, to hold things steady at an angle, is a “bean bag”; the better half made me a couple, hence the tasteful floral pattern!

[Greyhead46]

The control column, or joystick if you prefer, is always a prominent part of any cockpit; luckily it’s one part of the SE5a that’s really basic.

The top is a curtain ring, the column itself aluminium tube and the rest various pieces of plastic tube and Plasticard.

 

With 3 more lengths of snake outer and a lick of paint it’s almost finished.



When the paints dry I’ll bind the top ring with button thread then add the 2 triggers, made from litho plate and that’ll be it; simple!

 

For some unknown reason the aileron cables are connected to the control column under the pilots seat, this seems strange as in the wing they run very close to the front spar, but as they will not be seen it makes the pivot a lot easier to make.

In the first photo you can see the different components used to make it; white plastic tube, black Plasticard for the flange and collar, toothpick for the grease nipple and a couple of slivers of hex. rod for the nuts. After painting it looks very “ex-works”, but a bit of dry brushing with silver Solalac will soon change that.

I’d originally made the triggers from litho plate but decided they were just too fragile and would soon fatigue with the engine vibration, so these are made from and good old “bean tin”.

 

 

In the background is my “working sketch” for the top of the control column. We’ll have to wait and see how similar the finished item is to the design.

 

The binding has really improved the look of the control column; first chord all over (button thread), then leather for the top half (Solatex).



After the addition of the triggers with their cables the control column and the pivot can be assembled; with a little weathering, which isn’t obvious from the photo, it looks ready for the cockpit.
 

Edited March 18, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

The decision that the instrument panel is finished has to be taken at some point and that time has come, so it’s glued in position and the decking added; it’s too late now so I’ll not look at any more photos of instrument panels.

There’s a large cut out for the Vickers.



The view through the inspection panel will determine how much more cockpit detail is needed.



It’s only small but it certainly gives a good view of the Vickers so that’ll need to be quite detailed.

Some of the instruments etc. are actually attached to the decking which makes life a bit awkward to say the least. The left hand side is fairly uncluttered; before I fitted the right hand rear section of decking I glued the radiator flap control lever to the left hand decking.



The right hand side is a lot more complicated; so far I’ve fitted the magneto switches, the main electrical switch box and an aluminium bracket (no idea what it’s for), still to go before I can finish the decking are the hand cranked magneto and the flare box.

 

These photos also show the “half” stiffeners. The ones forming the joint to the rear decking were made using the reverse jig after removing 3/32" from the former.

Edited March 19, 2023 by Greyhead46

[Greyhead46]

All these “extras” are made from bits and pieces form my “that’ll come in handy one day” box and small off cuts of balsa, ply and various other materials I’ve saved from the bin!

 

The flare box was an enjoyable little project; made mostly from 1/64th ply, just a 1/16th balsa base.

 

The flares themselves are from plastic tube with a Plasticard top and a pin for the percussion cap. The clip, made from litho plate, should really be attached to the box but it was easier to cyano it to the flare.

 

Showing the magneto switches, flare box and magneto in position; it’s now ready for the left hand rear decking.

[Rich Griff]

Interestingly the last batch of coffee stirrer sticks I liberated from Tesco cafe are oval in section....