Paint spraying

[Paul Holmes 2]

Having just acquired a new airbrush and compressor and having never done any airbrushing before, I would like to know what are the best paints to use for spraying onto finished air frames? 

[Engine Doctor]

It really depends on the type of model . does it ned to be fuel proof, what  kind of fuel etc . Also what type of airbrush and compressor  you have will dictate how much airflow and hence what type of paints . some paints dont like being thinned too much as they wont cover very well . Humbrol will spray quite well but need slight tinning . Guild paints also spray well  but not sure about through an airbrush ? I use a car touch up gun  ideal for very small jobs to really quit big jobs . Tamiya acrylics are also a  good choice as they are quite thin cover well and dry quickly for second coat. If you prefer water based paints then artists acrylic or automotive water based paints work well although car paint can work out expensive . Once you have your spray equipment set up have play with different paints and types as all spray differently and need different techniques .

Oh and dont forget a mask etc  if spraying in an enclosed space. 

Edited August 6, 2023 by Engine Doctor

[Jon H]

I use enamel and am looking to switch to 2k clear as a fuel proofer as nothing else works. In my testing i have found a 2k that will go over my enamels and not eat them. I do it this way as the enamel is easy to get, pretty cheap, and easy to spray and deal with the cleanup. I could do 2k colours, but its far more toxic (ie, bloody lethal due to the isocyantes) than enamel and clean up is more involved. As i do not want every colour i paint to be a hazmat incident i stick to enamel and just use 2k clear to minimise exposure. 

 

This is for i/c of course. If you are flying electric enamel would be fine on its own with no 2k lacquer

[Allan Bennett]

Having got myself a decent airbrush many years ago I wasted much time and money trying to get decent results with, first, canned air and later a large compressor with tank.  It wasn't until I went on a beginners' airbrushing course at airbrushes.com that I was able to get good results, having learned about air pressure, paint thinning, airbrush maintenance etc.

 

Since I now only fly electric models my preferred paint is Lifecolor water-based acrylics, mainly because they're easiest to clean but also because they have a wide range of colours.  I usually use a Halfords rattle can of plastic primer to start with, and finish with Humbrol enamel varnish to waterproof and to give the appropriate amount of gloss to the finish.

[Manish Chandrayan]

15 hours ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

I use enamel and am looking to switch to 2k clear as a fuel proofer as nothing else works. In my testing i have found a 2k that will go over my enamels and not eat them. I do it this way as the enamel is easy to get, pretty cheap, and easy to spray and deal with the cleanup. I could do 2k colours, but its far more toxic (ie, bloody lethal due to the isocyantes) than enamel and clean up is more involved. As i do not want every colour i paint to be a hazmat incident i stick to enamel and just use 2k clear to minimise exposure. 

 

This is for i/c of course. If you are flying electric enamel would be fine on its own with no 2k lacquer

Be interesting to find out what 2K product have you discovered that does not attack the enamel finish. My recent attempt to use 2K PU clear was a disaster. Good thing it was only on the wheel pants of a Goldberg Chipmunk. Thereafter I tried brushing 2K epoxy paint thinned with epoxy thinner on a repaired cowl of Extreme Flight 30cc Edge and could see the original paint starting to streak with the brush stroke. I suppose the Epoxy thinner was the culprit.    

[jrman]

From my experience a suitable thinner for epoxy is iso propyl alcohol ( IPA) which shouldn't attack enamel finishes.

[Jon H]

https://www.custompaints.bike/product-category/clear-and-lacquers/

 

I got a sample from these guys and was able to brush it over enamel without issue. I have not sprayed any yet and hope to test it in anger next week as i have to finish the paint repairs on my Hurricane. 

 

The solvent in the CCR paint appears to be acetone

[jrman]

Not a good idea to use acetone anywhere near enamel in my opinion. That link Jon doesn't list any thinners or reducers.

[Jon H]

4 minutes ago, jrman said:

Not a good idea to use acetone anywhere near enamel in my opinion. That link Jon doesn't list any thinners or reducers.

 

I would normally agree, but i tried everything i could to get it to eat my enamels and it flatly refused. I even brushed some on a bit of humbrol less than 3 hours old without ill effect. I do plan to go step by step though. 

 

As for thinner, you just use it as is with no thinner at all. Its intended for use in automotive spray guns so i guess they can handle it as is. My 15 quid amazon touch up gun did ok with it. It was a little thick, but the chap at CCR told me to warm the paint a bit before spraying to help thin it down. 

[jrman]

Did the paint smell of "pear drops"? If it didn't then it wasn't acetone.

[Jon H]

57 minutes ago, jrman said:

Did the paint smell of "pear drops"? If it didn't then it wasn't acetone.

 

Not wanting to die i didnt sniff it.

 

Its got acetone on the bottle, so...acetone it is. 

 

[John Stainforth]

On 06/08/2023 at 14:50, Paul Holmes 2 said:

Having just acquired a new airbrush and compressor and having never done any airbrushing before, I would like to know what are the best paints to use for spraying onto finished air frames? 

For my scratch built S6b I used KlassKote epoxy paints, applied with a Sata Minijet air gun and compressor. I approached this painting stage with much trepidation, having never used KlassKote or a spray/gun compressor combination before, and I have to say it worked really well and turned out to be about the easiest part of the whole model build. KlassKote is expensive, but certainly well worth it on valuable models - and it's absolutely fuel proof.

[Paul Holmes 2]

Thanks lads for the help and info. I'll let you all know how I get on. I quite fancy trying the KlassKote epoxy paints. I have used them before when it was supplied in a rattle can format.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Hi Jon, so is it Polyurethane ?.

[Jon H]

23 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

Hi Jon, so is it Polyurethane ?.

 

no its 2k..presumably acrylic? Its a 2 pack job, with an activator so whatever that makes it! 

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Ok thanks, my brother bought some to paint his Citroën, and had problems spraying polyurethane varnish over it using thinners,

I did it using the polyurethane straight without thinners, tell us when you have tested it whether it's methanol ( nitro ) proof .