Soldering Piano Wire

[Ian Lennox]

What is the best method for soldering piano wire for landing gear?

What I'm after really is:

1. Wattage of soldering iron, or is it best to use a blow torch?

2. Make of flux.

3. Make of solder  preferably with percentages. 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

1. As big as possible. 
2. Bakers Fluid - but clean off VERY thoroughly afterwards. All components need to be thoroughly abraded and degreased before soldering. Other milder fluxes will work but the preparation is more critical. 

3. 60/40 lead based solder

 

But there is a 4.  You need to use the solder to hold the binding wire (or clips) in place.  It is the binding that provides the strength, not the soft solder.  Most people use copper wire from cable these days.
 

Don’t be tempted to use silver solder as the temperature required will destroy the piano wire’s mechanical properties. 

[Mr Ficky]

Thanks Martin for your reply. I was wondering about using silver solder, so I'm glad you mentioned it!

[Ernie]

Hi Ian, There is an excellent source of both soldering stuff, and  advice called DCC concepts. They are really model railway suppliers, but their materials and supplies are second to none

ernie

[Manish Chandrayan]

4 hours ago, Mr Ficky said:

Thanks Martin for your reply. I was wondering about using silver solder, so I'm glad you mentioned it!

If one is worried about annealing the piano wire while using pukka silver solder use something with lower silver content like the Stabrite or similar that has 4/5 silver and low working temperature and much stronger than the 60/40 solder. A happy medium between the standard electronics solder and solder used for brazing etc

Edited February 18 by Manish Chandrayan

[Don Fry]

I can braise wire and retemper, father taught me. Ditto silver solder.

Sub 7 kg stuff, wot I fly, 60/40 lead/tin, resin solder, scrupulous clean, helped along by resin flux. I think my iron is 150 watts. No fails yet. 
Note well Martin’s comment, the solder acts like a glue, not a structural component. 

[Nigel R]

Cannot add much to the advice above. Cleanliness is everything. Copper from mains cable, bind nearly as you can.

[Don Fry]

Copper sheathing is also nice, can buy on internet. Slide it over the workpieces, pull it longer, so it thins in diameter over the workpieces, and solder on. Neat.

Another is take a bit of brass tube, slit it lengthways, and open the slit to nearly the diameter one of the wires, so it can be pushed onto the wires you want to join, using the brass as a spring/clamp to pull all together. Then solder. Trick is to pick the right diamerter of tube so it clamps well. 

[Basil]

Ian, I had the same problem regarding the soldering of piano wire. Then I referred the subject to this forum. Someone suggested using 'Carr's 188 solder paste, and it works............. As has already been said cleanliness is essentials. I use a file to clean the surface, get rid of the black, nice shiny metal. Then clean with  a solvent to degrease. Then using the Carr's to coat the wire, heat will melt the product and form the 'Tinned ' layer. I use a quick blast with a torch or the iron I bought for such worh. 200watts.

When it's tinned you have basically cracked it, you have a layer of solder on the surface ready to bond with more solder thats added during the addition of binding wire or whatever comes next.

 I had tried many things before without success. Good luck. I would again like to thank the contributors from whom I got my info in the first instance.

WARNING; the product contains lead, so hand washing is advisable. Also clean the finished  work . Follow the instructions.

Bas