Basil Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Hi everybody. Just been looking for the temperatures of use for Diacov. The video on line by Sarik is for Diatec not Diacov.I have had a coversation with them and been told it is not the same animal. I suggested that perhaps they remove it in favour of the correct video. In the mean time can anybody that has used it please give me the suggested temperatures for use. Many Thanks. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 Is it possible that you are mistaken? The video on the Diacov page on Sariks own website does show Diacov being applied. The difference between Diacov and Diatex is that Diatex has no adhesive layer and the video shows a covering that does have an adhesive layer (plus indicative temperatures). So, I'm not sure what the issue is! https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted May 21 Author Share Posted May 21 14 minutes ago, Alan Gorham_ said: Is it possible that you are mistaken? The video on the Diacov page on Sariks own website does show Diacov being applied. The difference between Diacov and Diatex is that Diatex has no adhesive layer and the video shows a covering that does have an adhesive layer (plus indicative temperatures). So, I'm not sure what the issue is! https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/diacov-1000-adhesive-film-for-model-aircraft/ The issue I phoned about was that the video says ' Depending what type of wooden substrate is used Solo must be used to prime the surface'. Solo seems like some sort of dope that is used when Diatex is used on Aircraft proper. Bearing in mind that the majority of our construction materials are wood I was enquiring about what types need priming. I was given to understand that priming is not required with Diacov. In my mind if we had to prime everything the advantages of use are reduced . First I was told that this is not so with Diacov!!!!!. I then enquired about temperatures, quoting the temperatures given on the web page up to 170 C. I was then informed that this was for Diatex not Diacov. A temperature of 110c was verbally given for Diacov. I have refered to the web site some time in the past and dont seem to remember the use of those higher temps being quoted ,maybe I am wrong about the later. Thats when I suggested that perhaps the information be corrected. The material in the video does not look like Diacov ,which has it has a yellowish colour, the video looks white in colour. So Allan, I think there is some sort of issue from the info that Sarik has given me being so different. One way or the other there is a difference!!!! Regards Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted May 21 Share Posted May 21 All adhesive backed heatshrink fabrics work better with the application of an extra adhesive on harder non-absorbent surfaces such as ply or Ali or GRP. Solartex used balsaloc, Coverite used Black Baron and Sig fabric used Stix it. This is not priming! The video on the Sarik page does use Diacov and it does have subtitles which quote temperatures. I have used Diatex and I can assure you that it needs the entire airframe to be covered with fabric cement prior to the application of the fabric and then the fabric surface sealing with dope after shrinking. Very different to Diacov. So, to me, the video is entirely correct and you have implied the need for priming etc. I have bought a small amount of Diacov from Sarik to trial and I found it stuck to balsa surfaces easily without any additional adhesive as you'd expect, plus the iron temperature was non-critical. I would ignore any verbal info you've been given by Sarik as it seems that they have added unnecessary confusion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 Alan, the word 'Priming' is used as it implies the first thing required. It relates to Diatex not Diacov. The video says 'Certain wood surfaces need priming' I have already outlined that that was the reason of my contact with Sarik. I have used it in the past with reasonable results that would have been a lot better had I taken more care etc etc. I am not in any way being critical just pointing out the statements made by Sarik. So if I followed your suggestion of following the video I would be using temperatures like the 170c as tated in the video, is that a correct figure to use rather than the 110c given verbally. I am confused regarding the temperature and that is why I was asking if others had used it and at what temperatures. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Bradly Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 From the page Alan linked: (About Diacov) and reiterating what Alan has said; They say iron from 100 degrees, but 120 seems better to us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenRow Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 Follow the video, ignore whatever Sarik might have verbally told you if it contradicts the video advice. They may have misunderstood your questions. The video is the manufacturer’s own production, it’s on their website too. They should know…. The temperatures stated (on the video) go up in stages from initial tacking in place, full adhesion and shrinking. The absolute maximum is 170 deg. You might not need this high a temperature, it depends on the level of shrinkage required. Alan’s previous two posts say it all. Some confusion might arise because the name Diatex is the name of the company itself (as well as the name of their main fabric products without the adhesive backing, aimed mostly at the full-size aviation business). The video is most definitely for Diacov 1000, not as stated in your original post. Here is the information sheet for Diacov 1000. DIACOV-EN-b-bd 2.pdf Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 1 hour ago, RottenRow said: Follow the video, ignore whatever Sarik might have verbally told you if it contradicts the video advice. They may have misunderstood your questions. The video is the manufacturer’s own production, it’s on their website too. They should know…. The temperatures stated (on the video) go up in stages from initial tacking in place, full adhesion and shrinking. The absolute maximum is 170 deg. You might not need this high a temperature, it depends on the level of shrinkage required. Alan’s previous two posts say it all. Some confusion might arise because the name Diatex is the name of the company itself (as well as the name of their main fabric products without the adhesive backing, aimed mostly at the full-size aviation business). The video is most definitely for Diacov 1000, not as stated in your original post. Here is the information sheet for Diacov 1000. DIACOV-EN-b-bd 2.pdf 1.4 MB · 1 download Brian. Brian, my original post was from Sariks website , it was they that I quoted.!!!. Thank you for the info , puts things in a different light. All the required info. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RottenRow Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 No problem. What I meant was that the video that is on Sarik's website wasn't produced by Sarik, it is the manufacturer's video that is also available on their own website. https://www.diatex.com/diatex-produit/covering-fabric-diacov-1000/ Anyway, it sounds as if you are on the right track now. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 I have found the most difficult thing was to get a good 'Edge' when trimming during application. I put this down to a not so sharp trimming knife/scalpel. I kept getting edges with what looked like 'Threads' attached to the edges. Next time I will make sure I have a new blade. Bas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 32 minutes ago, Basil said: I have found the most difficult thing was to get a good 'Edge' when trimming during application. I put this down to a not so sharp trimming knife/scalpel. I kept getting edges with what looked like 'Threads' attached to the edges. Next time I will make sure I have a new blade. Bas Yep it's a lot tougher than Solartex and a sharp knife or scissors are a must. On the upside it is very resilient in use and very difficult to puncture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 A very sharp blade, and scissors, is essential for covering. I change my knife blade for each component.... wings, fuselage, etc. etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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