Engine Doctor Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 (edited) 9 hours ago, Jonathan M said: Slightly off topic, but would it be suitable to use 3-in-1 to pre-oil bearings, rockers, tappets, etc before starting engines that haven't been run for a long time? If not recommended, then what oil would be preferable? Also, what exactly is after-run oil (except very expensive stuff retailed in ever smaller bottles)? Dont use 3in1 for anything other than squeaky door hinges etc. I pre oil or oil for storage with air tool oil. It doesnt set is designed to protect against moisture and will penetrate any tight fitting bearings etc as its quite thin. Occasionally available from Aldi or lidl or from motor factors or online. Edited August 13 by Engine Doctor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Thanks ED. Having recently used 3-in-1 as mentioned above in my three four-stroke engines (OS30, ASP70 and ASP91) then run them on the test-stand, how would I now best flush out the poison before lubing with air tool oil? The 30 (run-in) and 91 (previously lightly flown) will be stored until I get around to building models for them. The 70 (also previously lightly-flown) is going in a bipe I'm about to start refurbing, so that'll hopefully be up and running before too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Running on the test stand probably best way to be rid of the stuff. I use ATF fluid for storage of engines, syringe some into crankcase via breather and some down carb or exhaust for 4stroke. Turn engine back a few times by hand if inserting down exhaust. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 16 hours ago, Jonathan M said: Thanks ED. Having recently used 3-in-1 as mentioned above in my three four-stroke engines (OS30, ASP70 and ASP91) then run them on the test-stand, how would I now best flush out the poison before lubing with air tool oil? The 30 (run-in) and 91 (previously lightly flown) will be stored until I get around to building models for them. The 70 (also previously lightly-flown) is going in a bipe I'm about to start refurbing, so that'll hopefully be up and running before too long. As jd8 says just give them a good run . If you intend storing them then get an aerosol of WD 40 or similar and pressure wash it out , allow to drain then oil with air tool oil. Some suggested auto transmission fluid as an after run etc . It doesnt really do anything and will eventually dry and go thick and sticky. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Atf hygroscopic..... Not tried redex fuel system cleaner petrol or diesel flavour but they sure work on bike carbs....goes in like cherryaide, comes out like coke... I don't have an ultrasonic.... Redex on offer at the moment in Aldi, or was it Lidl.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Been using ATF/power steering fluid in model engines for years with no issues, rust or sticky, engines turn over fine when brought back to service. I use the same fluid used in tractor hydro steering units. Recon the most important thing is to store in as dry an environment as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Absolutely, dry storage lubed up in a plastic bag. If you have some of those sachets of silica crystal are they, great. Our brilliant local hardware shop ( Stermat ) has dehumidifier crystal "boxes" that absorb moisture very well. Some of our motorcycles specify tqf, now atf, for front forks. Goes in blood red, comes out milky Barby pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 10 hours ago, J D 8 - Moderator said: Been using ATF/power steering fluid in model engines for years with no issues, rust or sticky, engines turn over fine when brought back to service. I use the same fluid used in tractor hydro steering units. Recon the most important thing is to store in as dry an environment as possible. Agreed on dry storage. I have had one engine stored with ATF gum up. Maybe it reacted with something in the fuel? After that I pushed the boat out, spent £10 on some air tool oil, use that for my infrequent assembly/storage jobs instead. 21 hours ago, Rich Griff said: Atf hygroscopic..... ATF is not hygroscopic. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Griff Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Oh, really, I stand corrected. I wonder why it goes milky, pink, in motorcycle front fork application ? A question for a different forum perhaps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 44 minutes ago, Rich Griff said: Oh, really, I stand corrected. I wonder why it goes milky, pink, in motorcycle front fork application ? A question for a different forum perhaps... Thats probably the water causing milky look and if left will probably separate like engine oil does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 14 hours ago, J D 8 - Moderator said: Been using ATF/power steering fluid in model engines for years with no issues, rust or sticky, engines turn over fine when brought back to service. I use the same fluid used in tractor hydro steering units. Recon the most important thing is to store in as dry an environment as possible. Is your tractor power steering fluid normal ATF ? ATF now comes in many different types so some may be ok but some of it is quite nasty . Agreed storage in a dry environment is most important. I'll be sticking with air tool oil for now though as its proven to me that its up to the job and stays liquid for many years . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 It is Fuchs ATF 3000. A Dextron II spec oil that has a wide number of uses. I also use it in my land rover main gearbox which although a manual uses an internal pump to deliver oil around the box. May well differ from other ATF's but I do not know. Fuchs note its anti corrosion capability in spec sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 4 hours ago, Rich Griff said: I wonder why it goes milky, pink, in motorcycle front fork application ? Might be tiny air bubbles in the oil? Seems odd at first for a bike to spec ATF in the forks instead of regular fork oil, but I guess the viscosity must be matched to the fork's assorted valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Aerated ATF does look milky pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cracknell Posted August 18 Author Share Posted August 18 For those of you who can't/don't want to go down the road of air tool oil as a storage treatment also look at gun oil. It is low viscosity, non gumming and helps fight rust and corrosion. Available in smaller quantities in a 3 in 1 type can with spout. Any gun dealer or online. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cracknell Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 Well, after lots of trials and tribulations and a heat gun set at 400°C the engine was finally beaten into submission. I have managed to get the liner out but struggling to go any further. Can anyone let me know the secret of getting the con rod and piston out so I can set to on the bearings? Many thanks in advance. All info appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J D 8 - Moderator Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 With the liner out one can wiggle the con rod back enough to slip off crank pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 Hooking the con-rod with an Allen key usually works although it can be bit of a beast if it's seized on the gudgeon pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 If the little end is tight on the gudgeon pin, which it sounds like then it will have to be freed off . a soak with some Plus gas and or heat will eventually free it enough to slide it back enough to get it off of the crank pin. As suggested a allen key or similar to lever it back helps but go easy so as not to bend the con rod .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cracknell Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 (edited) It's not seized as I can turn the engine over so I will try the Allen key method with care. Thanks guys....... PS It hasn't got a piston ring so I guess it's the ABC version Edited August 22 by Robert Cracknell Addition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 Hi Robert. It could stil be siezed as gudgeon pin could be turning in piston but stuck in the little end bush of the rod. It also likely to be a build up of varnish / oil stopping the con rid fr9m slifing to the end , needed to remove it from the crank. All doable but justctakes time . Heat will help . Not sure what version engine you have but be careful not to loose Teflon pads fitted into ends gudgeon pin if fitted . If a circlip is fitted then you will be ok during removal but replace with new one whrn rebuilding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Cracknell Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 Thanks ED. Very valid points As to the version all I know is that it's ABC Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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