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Building the Nijhuis Lysander


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Hi guys
 
I have been sorting the location of my throttle servo and cable run today and will post some pics up later. 
 
I have also been bench testing my Saito62 with a MA 12x6 3 blade prop. However fully leaned out its running at ~10000rpm which seems and sounds a bit fast for a war bird riched up 4 clicks it drops to 9800rpm. This gives me a top speed of about 56mph.
 
The to other choices of 3 blade prop are both graupner and they are 12x8, and 12.5x7 any thoughts on which would suit the airframe ? I don't want to fork out for both.
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Hugh,
 
I do not know  the grade of mine, but you wouldn't bend it by pressure alone, even   when annealed it required a good vice and hammer, but I'm sure yours would  have less stress marks if annealed.  I would file off  that sharp aluminium angle too.  
 
No you must not quench, just let it cool naturally.
 
 
MT,   wow,      56mph thats a scale speed just over 500 mph.
 
 
Terry  

Edited By Terry Whiting on 07/03/2010 17:42:08

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Hi Guys,
Stabaliser finished and now covering(Black Solartex) before gluing.
With the few models l have built the Stab. has always fitted to the top of the fuselage,not as with this one, underneath...so fairly easy to set up straight and level.
I have not seen any comments on how you guys did yours but this is my thoughts..
1.  Place fuselage upside down on board. It rests nicely on F4 and top of F7.
2. . 2 "T" square's either side of box at F2 and all looking square.
3. placed an "oil stone" (or some other weight) across undercarriage section to keep fus. from moving about so you can fiddle with the tailplane.
4. 2 pins horizontal on the hinge line into each tip block.of the stabaliser
5. A third pin into the middle of the bottom stringer on F5.
6. I can now measure equal distance from pin 3 to each pin on stab. and also same distance from building board to each pin in stab.
I have had a dummy run and all looks good and square.
 
Before l commit to the 30 min epoxy can you see any problem with this method.!!!
 
 I cannot see how else to do it ....since if l try with the fuselage in the norm position then l suspect  good old gravity will take over and something will move.
Any comments appreciated before l mix the epoxy !!!
Geoff.
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Geoff,
 
I can not see any problem with that set up.
 
Mario's method on page 6 shows the fuselage upright which is similar to my own
method. I just made two equal size block which when place under each tailplane tip
lifting the fuselage belly clear of my building board.
With my fuz square (upright) to my building board, I knew then the tailplane was square to the fuz, just left the normal tip geometry.
 
So mix that epoxy 
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Hi guys
This month to me is perfectly full, two F3P indoor competition one have already passed at 6 March and Bellota Jets 2010 in Spain next weekend. Adding professional working time I don't have no time to work on my Lizzie but always have some minutes to view this threadh and follow your progress.
Go on with your good work and than i catch you later.
Regards
Mário
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Hi all,
i am afraid the lizzie build is on hold for about a week. last night i attached elevators to stab and rudder to fin.
 
But thats it for now. went to field to fly this afternoon and helped a lady get her  elderly alsation into her car as his back legs had given up. no more good samaritan for me. the thing clamped  his teeth into my right thumb  ( and i am right handed) blood everywhere and ended up in casualty, tetanus booster and a thumb with about 2 feet of bandage wrapped round it.
 
 
oh well at least i am protected from tetanus until 2020.
 
jim
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Posted by rookie jim on 14/03/2010 19:52:54:
Hi all,
i am afraid the lizzie build is on hold for about a week. last night i attached elevators to stab and rudder to fin.
 
But thats it for now. went to field to fly this afternoon and helped a lady get her  elderly alsation into her car as his back legs had given up. no more good samaritan for me. the thing clamped  his teeth into my right thumb  ( and i am right handed) blood everywhere and ended up in casualty, tetanus booster and a thumb with about 2 feet of bandage wrapped round it.
 
 
oh well at least i am protected from tetanus until 2020.
 
jim
 Hi ya, been going through this with my Saito62. Largely depends on what prop the os48 like to swing now, and the only real way to see is to try them.
 
The rule of thumb is to drop an inch in diametre and go up an inch in pitch (or so I am told by wiser people than me). For example my 62 likes a 13x6 so for 3 blade 12x7 would be ideal. However no one makes this so I tried a 12x6 and the 62 span it at  ~10,000rpm which is a bit fast. The trouble is a this size of prop there is not much choice in 3 blade.
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Posted by Peter 'Servo Scrounger' Savage on 15/03/2010 00:05:45:
What does everyone think about an OS 48 with a three blader 12x6? or at the very least three blader 11x6?
 
If you're talking about the OS48 4-stroke, mine used to fly fine (it's superseded by an electric motor now) on a 12x6 2-blader in models with similar flying characteristics to the Lysander, so I would expect to use a 12x5 or 11x6 if I were going for 3-blade.
 
As it happens, my e-powered Lysander maidened last week with a 12x6 APC E prop, and I've now got myself a Master Airscrew 12x6 3-blader for it, which I'll probably have to cut down slightly to keep the amps within limits.   I didn't find much choice in sizes when I was searching.  I haven't tried it yet, and won't be doing so until after I've fine-tuned the balance with the present setup -- I don't like to change more than one parameter at a time, and I've just taken some lead ballast out of the nose, which I need to check out the effect of first.
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Posted by Timbo - Administrator on 15/03/2010 11:21:12:
Is it only me, or is there an irony in that reply by starting off with the saying " the rule of thumb"
Then its  lost on me and its half way through lol
 
It's what the scale guys up the club have told me, and there advice has always been good so far. My thought wast that the 3 blade prop would help it slow down a little more, as that the one comment Tony made was that this plane takes some slowing down.  The only other alternative for me is a 12.5x7 graupner. I can see a future where I just stick with 2 blades on my prop.
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Back to construction, I am at the point of sheeting the front of the fuse. Now TN has you sheet the front of the fuse, then cut away the sheeting to fit the undercarriage , would it not be better to fit it first and then sheet around it ? or am I missing something ??
 
Here is the build album of my progress so far Lysander Build there is also a build thread on my club sight Lysander Build thread

Edited By MThemadhatter on 15/03/2010 12:22:15

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Posted by MThemadhatter on 15/03/2010 12:08:25:
Posted by Timbo - Administrator on 15/03/2010 11:21:12:
Is it only me, or is there an irony in that reply by starting off with the saying " the rule of thumb"
 
Then its  lost on me and its half way through lol
 
It's what the scale guys up the club have told me, and there advice has always been good so far. My thought wast that the 3 blade prop would help it slow down a little more, as that the one comment Tony made was that this plane takes some slowing down.  The only other alternative for me is a 12.5x7 graupner. I can see a future where I just stick with 2 blades on my prop.
 
OK - lets switch programmes to "give us a clue"
 
Jims posting before your reply....
 
" But thats it for now. went to field to fly this afternoon and helped a lady get her  elderly alsation into her car as his back legs had given up. no more good samaritan for me. the thing clamped  his teeth into my right thumb  ( and i am right handed) blood everywhere and ended up in casualty, tetanus booster and a thumb with about 2 feet of bandage wrapped round it"
 
You start off with "the rule of thumb" ......
 
Tut - need any more ?
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Yes tell me about it I have a Master Airscrew 12x6 3 blade going if anyone wants it, never been flown ect LOL
 
My build has come to a grinding halt as I have sheeted between f1 - f2 , but looking at the next bit of sheeting I really need to put the UC on now (which I don't have yet) if I am going to sheet around it, or sheet it then cut it out later. Half tempted to do this and make a hatch over the UC so that it could be removed for repairs if necessary.
 
Instead I got on with fuel proofing the tank bay and fire wall. Now just waiting for the headache to go
 

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