Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks Timbo, I had a good look at what they have. The one I looked at before was Flight line Graphics

 

I am still some way off for this though lol

 

I have decided that once the tail, rudder, elevator are complete I am going to move onto the wings so that when I do fix them in place I can get everything lined up properly. In the mean time I am going to also work out the plumbing and the install of my South Herts Models on board glo so I can solder up all the wires to right length and test it on my Saito on the bench.

 

[Tim Mackey]

Posted by Peter 'Servo Scrounger' Savage on 30/03/2010 00:01:35:
Timbo, i can tell your itching to build one, the hanging around the thread is a dead give away! surrender your wallet and buy it!

 

Peter, I "hang around" every thread mate - I have to as moderator, but dont actually post if there is nothing useful I can add.

As for the lizzy.....nooooo, never floated my boat this flying greenhouse.

Edited By Timbo - Administrator on 30/03/2010 07:49:36

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi guys,

Anything you can cover before fitting do so, If you have boobed and trimmed of a little too much don't worry as strip can always be added. The majority of  modellers try to obtain that perfect look, self included. In my case 'try' is the operative word.

 

Paint. 

 In the past I have always used those little tins of Humbrol, but I have found that Humbrol painted on ABS takes a good 36-48 hour to really harden and was not happy with the finish,.....   yes I was using a fresh tin.

My son introduced me to Revell, what a revelation, when dry you would have thought it sprayed, and is 25% cheaper than Humbrol which is £1.45 at my local shop, the equivalent to £103.50  Ltr.

 

Ladder

I have now added the ladder. I used 2mm brass tubing. I made as a flat ladder for ease

in soldering the rungs, and it's lower fixing point. It was then shapped and fitted..

Quite pleased with the effect. I am also going to add the external fuel tank. I  built in the hard points prior to covering.

 

 

Tim

I think all us guys must be have agricultural tendencies,  

 

 

   

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 30/03/2010 11:33:46

[Papa]

Hi Guys, especially MTM. I went to Hamilton this morning to get some photographs of the Lysander. You can see them in my albums.

 

I was fortunate to talk to the head restorer and pilot. He was a nice fellow, well he would be coming from Somerset, by the name of Rickards. He took my camera into the cockpit and also shot photos of the rear interior including the second seat. There are shots of the fuel tank as well for anyone thinking of a more scale model.

 

I shot as many exterior shots as I could. You were asking about the yellow. Apparently there was no real spec. for the colour. Squadrons used what was available the thinking being yellow is yellow. This example was painted in what we call School Bus yellow or Loch Haven yellow. Looking at the Humbrol site their Trainer Yellow would be a good match. Cub yellow is too dark.

 

While the pictures make the finish look glossy  the actual finish is a semi-gloss.

 

I had to make two albums as I think I hit a cache limit. I hope you enjoy the photographs.

 

Jack , Toronto.

 

 

Edited By Papa on 30/03/2010 21:05:31

[Dusty]

 

Same colour as my Mirage! Tiger all the way!

[Hugh P]

Hi all

I have just upload some photos of the Shuttleworth Lysander. May help with detail.

[MThemadhatter]

Papa

 

Thanks for uploading those pictures, that is absolutely awesome. There is a lot of detail in those pics , some I may add to my finished model. Do you mind if I use a couple of those pics when I get flightline to make up the paint masks for the markings and lettering ?

 

If you guys are interested in alternative lysander schemes have a look at this link Airliners.net - Lysander there are some interesting schemes on there.

 

[Papa]

Everyone please make use of the pictures in anyway you want. It's my way of thanking you for all the build information and help you have provided. The raised cylinder head bumps on the cowl are 6" wide by 8" long and raised 1". They are not as pronounced as I first thought.

Jack.

[Papa]

Hi MTM, I know it's about 2:30 in the morning but here's a link to some flying photos of the Canadian Lysander that will give you a better perspective when you start covering

 

http://www.warbirddepot.com/aircraft_liaisons_lysander-cwhm.asp

 

Jack.

 

 

Edited By Papa on 31/03/2010 02:28:22

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jack,

 

Really good pictures,

 I must say the restorers made a fantastic job, but I bet none came out of Westland looking that pristine.

 I hope it's used at flying shows, and not end it's days in some museum.

 

Hugh,

 

Nice flying shots, and one picture answer a query I was going to make, which was the position of the wing roundel

How long have they had that Lysander hanging in Duxford?, I know  they started hanging some aircraft, but have never seen the Lysander. 

 

Terry

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 31/03/2010 08:58:21

[Supermario]

Hi Jack

Thank you very much for the pictures

They are very useful.

Mário

[Doug Ireland]

I haven't started building my Lysander yet as I have too many other projects on the go. By the time I get started I will have a complete construction manual available through these pages to work with!

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

As one of only two flying, it is too valuable to be left in a museum! People would probably spend money to go see it fly!

[Papa]

Terry, Peter, yes it flies at shows. June 20 is Father's Day here and everything, in the museum , that flies will be up. So if any of you will be around Toronto then come and see it. That includes the Lancaster! About an hour east of Toronto in Trenton is the only original Halifax.

http://airforcemuseum.ca/en/aircraft/aircraft/halifax

 

Jack.

 

PS. There is a TN Halifax coming in RCM&E soon, I hope.

 

jh.

 

 

[Hugh P]

Terry

The Duxford Lysander has been in the roof of the Air Space Hanger since it opened about 6 or so years ago. The Concorde, Vulcan & Lancaster are also in there. On entry, Concorde is difficult to spot there's that much in it!

Out of interest I photographed this Lysander in about 1985. About 20in span & for rubber, it was that impresive that the owener, Roy Norris of Melksham Models, who accuired it, decided to keep it in an uncovered state!

Hugh

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hugh,

I must have been walking round in my sleep, I was there 2 years  ago at a LMA do.

It had been a long day hot day and we left the Air space hanger to last.

I thing my my power of observation had eluded me.

 

Terry.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Hi Mario,

I fitted the flaps and ailerons today using the covering as my hinge, but was not happy with the result. I have never used Black Tex before, but it seemed less pliable than natural Tex.

They will be removed tomorrow and will use the very small Du-Bro pin hinges

 

Terry 

[Supermario]

Hi Guys

Terry

I aprecciate very much your work because you always correct what you think is wrong

seeking the better way to do the things. Many people just let go.

 

All the other who didn't put the spats on plane.

 

The quality of the vacuum formed pieces is not very good and

I don't trust much  the way TN proposes to apply the spats.

So I decided to do that my way and I post pictures because maibe helpful for someone.

 

1. I design and cut some "ribs" with the shape of the interior of the spat.

Used some wasted balsa of 3 mm

 

2. I glue those pieces in the place

3 .I trial fit in the U/C to put small marks  the limite

4. Then, with a knife I made a cut to fit the U/C and level the spat.

5. Then I put the glue ( I don't know the name of that glue but is like a sealent that used

in plumbing and for metalic works - is very strong but flexible)

6. The spat put in place and holding for a couple of hours drying

7. The last thing to do is is glue the other halve of the spat using the small plastic pieces

I glued before.

I can tell you that the result is quite good.

The spat is hold on in the U/C leg and moves with it.

 

Later I will post more pictures of the way I do the sheeting and reinforcement of the area

where the spats meet the fuselage.

 

Regards

Mário

 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

I totally agree with you comment about the spats, and the canopy is no better.

The only decent piece out of the plastic pack is the cowl.

 

Your way of butt jointing the two halves together is also mine.

 

I removed my axle and taped the spat halves together for a trial fitting,

and found I could slide them over the aluninium leg but I didn't insert

them into the fuselage.

My spats are cut 5mm short of the fuselage, and a 20mm wide skirt  made

of .25mm ABS sheet which  is trimmed for a snug fit to the fuselage.

The skirt will be held in place by the wing strut. The skirt was made as

a weak link incase of undercarriage flexing due to a hard landing.

 

Once I found the spat would fit as a built unit, it was glued together.

 Formers were made of blue foam  inserted and glue at the spat top and

 the wheel arch. Axles and wheels fitted perfectly. Just have to give the

spats their second coat of paint.,

 

I will forward picture soon.

 

Terry

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 01/04/2010 07:22:16

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Everything you do just looks awesome!

[Keith Dance 2]

Hi all!

Back to the flaps. The way that TN has them shaped and hinged will not allow them to be used as flaps as there is insufficient angle. At best they will only increase lift with a little increase in drag. How do I hinge them to get  them to lower to an angle of around 50 degrees or more? I was proposing to use mini robarts and I wish to keep the top edge flush with the trailing edge when up.

Keith.

[Terry Whiting 1]

HI Keith,

The only one way to increase the degree of flap with that hinge configuration,

and that is to increase the flap chamfer. If the aircraft  had been 'split flaps'

it would have been simple as the split flap would have been bottom hinged.

 

I emailed TN when I first scrutinized the plan, his answer was, "If you can

manage 40 degree all the better". I wished now I had gone the true scale

route ( rolling hinge) on ailerons and flaps as Mario did with his rudder and

elevator.

 

What I finally decided upon was to increased the chamfer on the flap,

 and chamfered the hinge spar of the wing. This gave me  40 degree.

 

The extra degrees of flap I wouldn't  contemplate if I hadn't variable flap

 control on my TX .

 

Terry   

[Supermario]

Hi Keith

Terry just give you the wright answer.

What he did was exactely what I did.

I increase the chamfer of the flaps when I notice the angle was quite little,

The increase of the chamfer was done adding at the bottom of the flap, glue to the leading edge one extra piece of 3 mm balsa.

To do the flaps as per plan stays on bottom a very tiny surface to cover that's easily damage.

In my flaps I have almost 40 degrees. This is not to much but however is better then what was planed.

Regards

Mário

[Supermario]

One draw because I always got the feeling that my english is not understandable.