J Moyler

I would be interested in a kit. It depends when I build it. If a kit comes out soon I will use the kit. But if I am building during the winter I will build it straight from the plan. JM

Just thought that I would add a comment. I would contact 4-Max, they are very helpful. With 4 servos the inbuilt BEC should cope. JM

Well done for sorting it out and reporting back. It can be tricky to troubleshoot radio problems. Hope you enjoy flying your quad. JM

When I brought my first quad for the house I had a similar problem with binding and flying the quad. In my case it was down to the throttle. I had to adjust the throttle in Betaflight to get it to work. I think that you are on the right track with your comments above. Hope you have success. JM

Thank you Mike for the correction, mistyped and did not spot the mistake. JM

Please see link for useful information on LiPo batteries. Generally EDF tend to be a high power application (in other words high wattage, hence high current). To work out if your batteries have the right range you need to measure the current using a watt meter. It might be that 35C batteries are suitable for your application but without further information we cannot say. The information needed: Model, Type of battery (how many cells, capacity eg on a battery your should have the following, 2200mAh, 3S1P 11.1v 20C and current draw (normally measured at full throttle ). If you are drawing more the the C rating (in the example above 20C = 20 x 2.2Ah = 44 amph) the battery life will be short. In the 4Max info sheet, what do the numbers mean regards to LiPo cells, it is suggested that you only draw about 60% of the max current for good battery life. In the example above this means 60% of 44Amph = 24.4 Amph JM Hope you find this helpful Edited By J Moyler on 23/03/2019 16:05:44

Looks a nice model. One that I would like to build. Well done Peter.

4-Max have a lot of information on choice of electric motors. To answer your question regarding prop size with large cowling, I have found that electric motors tend less problems as they tend to use larger props than an equivalent IC engine. If there is a problem you can just use a lower KV motor as suggested by Don, or by lowering the voltage you can use a larger prop. eg Using a PO-3547-700 Purple Power Motor 3 Cell 11.1 Volts - 15 x 10 Prop 4 Cell 14.8 Volts - 13 x 6.5 Prop 5 Cell 18.5 Volts - 12 x 6 Prop Hope this helps you. JM

Good to see that you repaired the Condor. It sounds as though you have found the problem Good luck for your next flight. JM

I normally just luck but I would add my support for you to get the condor flying again. Regarding comments about the amount of power available. 100 watts per pound is fine. In my limited multii-engine experience I have found that multi engine planes tend to be more powerful than expected Link . I am not sure how experienced you are with multi-engine planes but there was a post recently where someone used a ARTF Twin to gain experience before building a mosquito.Hope to see the Condor repaired and flying again. JM I think that I should of chosen a better link but it gives an idea why twins appear to be more powerful.   Edited By J Moyler on 11/10/2018 10:01:11

That's amazing. I am not into helicopters myself, but your Wessex is very good. Thank you for posting. JM

I am sure some one else will come up with a suggestion for a motor. From my experience I would like about 100 watts per pound weight. So I would look for a two kilowatt motor. 4 max do one which you can run on 10S using 20x10" prop Link 4-Max also have a guide to select a brushless motor Link Hope you find this useful. JM PS Just found some information on an AXI 5320/28 Link. This says max power is 1850 watts which will fly the plane. I have flown a 80" Piper cub on 70 watts per pound but prefer to have a bit of power in reserve. Edited By J Moyler on 30/08/2018 22:00:42

I thought that I would be the first person to post. I do not fly big quads but I did a google search and found the following thread Link. Hopefully this will be of help. Another link giving prop data Link JM

Going back to the original question. My advice would be to go along to the local club and see what is being used there and talk to them about radios. If you need help at some stage it would be best if the radio you choose is being used at the club you decide to join. To be honest all the major makes will do the job. All the new members at my club use Spektrum and there has not been any problems. JM

The easiest way if you are in the UK would be to take the cowl to B&Q and get them to mix the paint for you. When that happened to me I went for the general purpose paint and the match was very good. From memory I went for the smallest pot which I think is a tester and it cost about £7. JM

Well done for finding the cause. There is nothing worse that not finding the answer. You did the troubleshooting well, I always like reading your posts because I often learn things.

Just one thought, I might be wrong but I think your Wot 4 is battery powered. Lipo's can be affected by low temperatures. I find myself for normal flying at low temperatures providing I keep the batteries in the car there are no problems. Saying that there is always an exception, I did have a similar problem with a battery that was on the way out. During the summer no problems at all but when we had are first cold spell I had problems. When I checked it home the power out using my Watt meter was down by a third. JM

With reference to the Extreme Stol video. Take off in 14 feet and land in 10 feet, some of my models take more then that to take off and land. JM

Well done, it looks great. It puts me to shame as I have not even started mine yet. I think it should fly fine on that power. I used to fly a 80 " Piper cub with less than 80W/lb. With my twin I find the two engines seem to produce more more power than you expect. This could be because twins or other multimotors require less power because the prop is not being blanked nor does the prop-wash create as much turbulence over the fuselage. And motors on the wings actually give you better low-speed lift and aileron control due to airflow over the wing. In summary you should be fine with 83W/lb. I would double check everything first and check the prop speed with each motor just to make sure everything is working as expected. Good luck with your first flight, we would like a full report. JM

Well done on an interesting project. Great to see it flying outside. JM

From a quick google John Stainforth has the correct answer. They are used for technical drawing. See Links Link Link2 JM

Geoff I think that you misread Speedster's comment above. I read it as 180 watt per motor (720 watts Total), so there should be plenty of power. I used to fly my 9 pound Piper Cub on similar power. JM

Just for your information. there is a copy of the June 1989 Radio Modeller on Ebay cost £5.25. JM

Regarding spanners a good bicycle spanner can be useful. I have one that covers all the sizes that I normally use.

One more edit my fault looking at the daily Mail article again it was published in 2010. So this is a seven year old story. For some reason it popped up in my online edition today. JM