dave windymiller

Yes Frank, it has and has chambers. H2 surging is a common issue made worse by slackness in the transmission! It also gets worse at prolonged low speeds when it gets hot through lack of airflow. One fix is a revised carb kit from the US but this made my bike lose its mojo. I try not to do prolong low speed, thrash it is the way!! (@15-20mpg). Great fun on a track.

My kawa H2 (750 two stroke triple engine without reeds) struggles at a steady 30 without having to slip the clutch. Not sure how it will fare at a constant 20! Gonna try it anyway next year so watch out Machyllenth 🙂

Glad it worked for you. The radar screen i did doesn't scan on the screen in true life I believe. I'm sure others would correct me if wrong. I would have to see a display functioning and have the time, need & desire to replicate it (which i dont!). Its very possible but not by me as i want to get on with my other long suffering projects! Its a good way to learn by trying different approaches and start simple before adding the bells and whistles. (try having a line that moves in a scanning motion on its own, no other detail!). There are many examples on the web of watch screens with hands that move. You could try one of these then simplify it to gain understanding of the method and perhaps alter it to suit? An animation on these screens sizes would probably be acceptable if there were say only 10 discrete lines stepping across the screen(?). The line could be yellow (say) and when the next line is to be drawn, draw lines over the old yellow line with colours that match what should be underneath. I believe some approaches can read the colours (colour codes) along a path and save them to redraw it again later? I suspect you would have to use one of the faster processors so it can update the screen seamlessly. Best of luck Dave

Lucozade "Gives you energy" translates to "loads of calories" which doesnt sell it so well! "Sports drink" is ok though!

First model was a rubber powered Veron Sentinel in ~1976. First radio model was a Snipe, not the KK version but a single channel 049 powered model from aeromodeller feb 1970. Built when i was 16 in 1979. This had home built 27mhz radio designed by Cliff Stapelton from the electronics lab at Nottingham Uni and also an Enya 09-III engine (which pepped it up a bit!). I was very lucky befriending Cliff who walked me through building the 3ch radio. I still use it today on a replica of the snipe after i lost the original a couple a years back.

Curare and Magic!

I suspect its designed for a 1.5v non rechargeable battery? A lithium AA might be able to cope but my vote is for a 2v lead acid

The original colin usher stiletto plan was a near copy of the rapier. It seem to evolve into the single fin version later (copyright issues?). I used it as a basis for my 2 x sc52 version! . PM me and i can send the original to you. PS build the fus first and the wings onto the fus!

True, my contribution to the world! Ive had my share of free from various sources over the years so i dont lose sleep! I am in discussion re a 1/4 scale cockpit display array which would be in a different league compared to these!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313603433594 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155175349887 I would suggest the single processor for a single display approach as its easier to do. You would need 2 of each above. horizon.zip weather.zip

I know the original designer of these kits, Rob Millinship who went off into full size and flies the Hurricane at Shuttleworth now! Shame Rojair "went up in flames" ! Here's my two links.

Here my "when in Wales" project waiting to be covered for flying this year. AR1 slope soarer (on outerzone). Fun and games making a 6' wing in a 5' shed!!

The Me109 is "paused" whilst i do my turbine f86 but the komet has been finished and flow successfully. here

I had that on an old kit Ended up cutting new foam wings purely for the blanks so i could reskin the original foam with balsa (and have a spare foam wing core). See link below

+1 for brown paper with just one hole to fit the back plate. You can trim the protruding paper gasket from the assembled engine by burning it off with a pencil torch flame. Perhaps add a bit of thinners or methylated spirit so it burns better. Makes a perfect fit and no unsightly protrusions!!

I had hours of fun with the merlin as a kid!

Mine the Cambria version for IC but if yours flies half as well as mine you will be very happy with it! I was doubtful about the look of the "Dora" FW190D but its performance soon had me won over! Enjoy!

Only electric APC props have adaptors!

Brand new engine with lapped ABC pistons (ally piston chromed brass cylinder) often do this. Its the piston getting tight in the bore. As the engine runs, it expands and the tightness reduces. As it runs in, the tendency to click or even squeak reduces.

Warning – For information only – Im not responsible for any problems you may cause on your transmitter by making mistakes! It is also assumed you can program Arduinos with the Arduino IDE and add library files! Years ago, I made a circuit that converted the pulse position data stream from an old transmitter. This was connected via a game port using a PIC processor with digital “pots” to simulate a joystick. This allowed me to use an old transmitter with the free model simulator “FMS” and an old version of Aerofly pro. This served me well for years but as the computer evolved, the joystick game port disappeared as did my old transmitter. I decided to get the sims working again but use the ppm signal from the training socket of my “every day” transmitter and looked for an Arduino solution on the net. I tired several versions with mixed or no results. Eventually I did get “Arduino Joystick Library 2.0” to work where you could play with the examples the library provided. This library dictated the use of a “Leonardo” or an “Arduino Micro” or “Arduino Pro Micro” which has an ATMega32U4 processor. This chip has a built-in full blown USB interface and can be made to simulate a mouse, keyboard or joystick! Most other Arduinos are based on ATMega328 or similar chips and only have rudimentary serial comms through the usb connection hence cant be used for this project. For background info. Arduino Joystick Library 2.0 https://www.instructables.com/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/ To download the library .zip file :-https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/archive/version-2.0.zip Once I understood the basics, I turned my attention to an Arduino analysing the PPM and found this site which worked well (after reducing “separation space” from 10000u seconds to 5000u seconds). https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/abhilashpatel121/reading-rc-receiver-ppm-signal-using-arduino-c42929 This ppm reading program works on any Arduino chip and would display 6 channels from my Futaba SG14 (in 7 ch mode) and display the value ranges as varying from ~100 to ~940. I decided to graft a stripped down example code from the joystick library with the PPM signal reader code and used it to program a Arduino “Pro Micro”. Yahoo.. it worked. My full code is attached as a .ino text file. ppm_to_joy.ino Hardware The photo shows the two wires from the transmitter trainer socket to the Arduino micro with ground connecting to ground on the chip and the signal going to pin 3 input. The only other connection is the usb lead to the PC (so simple!). It is also possible to obtain the ppm directly from some receivers so the radio could be used wirelessly but I haven’t any such receivers myself to try this. The receiver can even be powered from the usb 5V via the supply pins on the chip. Many transmitters have a simple 3.5mm jack plug training socket to get the signal. Futaba uses a square plug available from:- https://store.flytron.com/products/futaba-mini-square-plug?_pos=1&_sid=f9910eba5&_ss=r Futaba square plug wiring detail :- (view looking at the socket on the transmitter or the side you solder on the plug). The pin 4-5 link is used to power the transmitter in training mode when its plugged in. Red signal, black ground. Other brands of trainer socket details should be found on the web! The Futaba signal is typical of many other brands with ~3.3v signal amplitude and inverse (the pulses go downwards). I experimented with the processor and found it could cope happily with 3.3v and either positive or negative pulses so no external circuitry was needed. Testing The default values should be good for most transmitters so you can skip to final setup after programming the arduino! The following section can be done if theres a problem or for fuller understanding! Test to see if the signals are being read by the Arduino:- Some of the code is commented out which outputs each channel value to the “serial monitor” in the Arduino IDE. Eg //Serial.print(ch[1]);Serial.print("\t"); Un-comment these lines (remove the “//” ) to get the range of values from your Transmitter. You will see in the serial monitor a stream of data in channel order. Waggle the sticks and see the typical range of values you get. Use these values in the lines that are similar to :- Joystick.setXAxisRange(100, 940); Mine ranged ~100 to ~940 for a brand new “model” on a SG14 Futaba (no trims adjusted etc). If alls good, reprogram the Arduino with these lines commented out again (as per the attached .ino file) as the serial comms interferes with the Joystick program. Final setup With the programmed circuit connected to the pc and transmitter via GND and pin3, use “control panel” (right click windows icon, select “run” and type control panel). Select “Devices and printers” and you should see:- Right click and select “game controller settings”. Click properties to get You should see your ch 1-6 sticks/sliders/switches moving the channels on the screen! X & y axis is your RH stick (Mode2), Throttle and rudder are ch 3 & 4, “Z axis” and “X rotation” are just names for ch 5&6. You can map them into your sim as required. It will need calibrating by selecting “Settings” then “Calibrate”. Follow the instructions and when it says press a button on the controller, just click next. Once calibrated it should accurately follow channels 1-6 on your transmitter. You should now be able to use it with your simulator? Any channel reversals needed can be done on the simulator settings page or on your transmitter! Problems – If you get error messages when the program compiles. 1) make sure you have selected “Arduino Leanardo” or “Arduino Micro” as chip type. 2) remove any other library(s) that has “joystick” in the title. They get mixed up and confused! Hope this is of interest to some of you. Good luck. PS I would like to thank the various people who wrote the codes that I used as a basis for my project.

I shall look out for that. Thanks My good friend Richard has a silk and between us when we park up both his and my qwak750 sure do gather a crowd! You cant beat a large 2 stroke for fun and emptying your pocket of money for petrol.

There are plenty of bluetooth audio transmitters available, quite cheap 4 to 8 quid so worth a try perhaps? Look on ebay. This would plug into the line out or preferably headphone jack so the volume controls on the hifi can set the volume (to avoid distortion). You may need a 1/4"mm to 3.5mm adaptor. Cant say ive tried any as i use my phone to wireless headphones!

Hotspot jet dogfighting with a vampire at Abingdon Xmas 2018. Its a drone so they say!

Update 4 weeks!

Me too