PatMc

Be carefull in what you wish for ☠️ !!!

The ESC motor control would not necessarily respond correctly to the full throttle stick range. I've never used an Overlander ESC but if it's a re-badged Hobbywing the calibration instructions (May be titled something like "throttle range settings) are simple, clear & take just a few seconds.

Toto, did you re-calibrate the Tx when you changed the ESC on the Domino ?

Thanks Leccy. It's actually a surprisingly good little aerobatic model that I am delighted with, although I only bought the Robot kit because I wanted the unrun NIB DC Sabre that went with it. The Sabre remains unrun but the Robot has been powered by 4 or 5 different diesel & glow before being electrocuted There's quite along story behind it with all the modifications to the original design as well as the power changes but it wouldn't be fair to hijack this thread any further.

For what reason ?

I totally disagree ! Tailplanes on the same models are often glued in place & are usually just as vulnerable. Rubber bands were great damage limiters for uncontrolled free flight landings which were as likely to be downwind or crosswind as into wind. RC models simply don't need the same protection & because they are subjected to higher "G" throughout each flight than FF rubber bands can be a positive liability. All of my vintage models have bolt on wings & tailplanes (plastic or steel screws) with zero landing damage resulting. The Junior 60 & the Frankenstein first flew circa 1986.

Yes, I know, just curious if ED does. 😉 Even an open circuit result would require at least 2 of the windings to be OC unless the motor was delta wound, which would be unusual with our motors.

How did you test the resistance of the motor, what type of meter did you use & roughly what was the resistance ?

I'm afraid testing the coil resistance with a multimeter would tell you nothing.

It shouldn't with a ballanced charge.

Graham, the fact that the motor will start at about half throttle suggests to me that at normal low start throttle setting not enough torque is being produced to move the rotor because the ESC isn't holding the power pulse long for the voltage to build up across the active motor coil winding. You could try a normal start but spin the motor by hand whilst at a low throttle setting, the motor will probably run OK at this throttle setting (Do this either without a prop fitted or use a chicken stick) IMO, if it now runs at low speed it confirms that the ESC timings are fundamentally at fault. BTW the intended motor is very low KV which means it's windings will be relatively high inductance, are the other motors you've tried also low KV & what voltage batteries are you using ?

Do the ESC instructions advise calibrating to the Tx ? Even if they don't there's nothing to lose by trying this anyway. To check the ESC/motor connectors without removing the heatshrink - try running the motor for 10 - 20 secs then feel if any of the 3 connectors are hot. If so that will point to a high resistance/duff solder joint.

Not exactly a joke but... My 94 year old sister is in a care home, thinking of a Xmas pressie for her is always a problem. This year I thought a couple of pairs of non-slip slipper socks would be a great idea. I picked a pastel pink pair first then thought a Xmas themed design would be nice for the second pair. I was just about to hit the button on this pair Reindeer pattern when I took a closer look - then decided another pastel coloured pair would perhaps be more suitable for an old lady. 😁

When an r/c model is being flown the applied physics are constantly being changed. The effective thust line is also changing with every change to the wing's AofA.

Very few models are designed for precision aerobatics & even fewer model pilots are capable of executing anything like precision aerobatics.

"It's a 9 day old echo" !!!!!!!!

It must be even worse if your birthday is on 29th February.

Not sure if this belongs in the Photography section or Chit Chat as it's a pictorial comment on the sudden & extreme change in weather we've just had in Northumberland. Both pictures were taken from my living room window about the same time mid-morning only 9 days apart. Friday 24 Nov 2023 Sunday 3 December 2023 In case anyone is wondering both photos are in colour. Coincidentally, if you look closely there's at blue tit in both shots.

Yes, the bowler hats were a dead giveaway. 😁

The OP doesn't say that the props are necesarily on the same motor/engine or even on the same model.

Yes it does, so long as the blades are also near identical. ED is describing a different situation.

I nearly always adjust it over a few trial flights to suit my preference for the particular type of model. BTW, shouldn't we be referring to the lengthwise balance position not the CoG ?

I fitted the same module to my earliest version Taranis about 2 or 3 years ago. After flashing the then latest firmware I got mode options: OFF, PPM, XJT, DSM2 , MULTI, R9M, and SBUS. Note no ACCESS which I don't think was operational at the time. The one you're missing, "MULTI", I'm pretty sure was pointed to via the github link in the instructions. I haven't got time to look at it right now but will have a look later this pm.

Sounds a good idea if you want to get as many people as possible anti Safety Officer. 😠

@Shaun WalshIn the link to the Phoenix (V742-6) @mightypeeshgave the motor size is given as 2812 but no KV is quoted. Are you quoting from an early version Phoenix ? I have a V742-1 which was supplied with a 2212 1400kv motor same as the Ranger in MP's earlier link. PS I agree with you that an 8x6 should be about right if the motor is around 1400kv 👍