Mark Turner 12

I’ve actually used my daughters old white school socks and they work fine and much easier to get 😀

Wouldn’t one of these charge and discharge to storage two batteries at once for less money? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-t100-dual-battery-lipo-balance-charger-444856 I have this one as we 12v batteries from a solar supply at the field and it does 12v and 240v input https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/skyrc-d100-v2-ac-dc-dual-balance-charger-421359

Ended up with a 2826 1350kv from memory with a master air screw 8x5 which gives it vertical performance, very happy with it😀

Hi yes be very useful if you could although do they still sell these receivers?

Just wondering how you got on with this Matty, I have a R168 consigned to a draw after it missbehaved and caused a crash at close quarters (was much better at distance, but close up RSSI warning came up). Mark

Use masking tape to protect what you don’t want to sand, I quite like my perma grit block also after initial razor plane shaping. You can also rough shape the trailing edge before fitting, or if you are worried get some preformed le and te from a model shop or slec.

Hi Peter Any pictures of the conversion to electric, hatch, motor mounting etc? Cheers Mark

Here’s a 3/4 scale j60 from an old aeromodeller, doculam with free flight supplies orange tissue with black painted details. Even the cabin windows are doculam, no need to glaze them 😀

Here’s another take on it , this might dovetail nicely into next weeks itat on cnc routers.

Usually you trim them to fly in LH circles and the rh thrust on the prop makes them climb straight. There are some fantastic videos from maxfliart on youtube. Some of them are breathtaking. https://www.youtube.com/user/maxfliart

I enjoy sticks and tissue, have you seen some of the rc converted ones too, there is an rc converted Ajax on youtube. I have a KK caprice glider to convert too, im thinking all moving tail for that one as I want to keep the ribs the way they are. see

Well Peters plan is vector PDF which means dead easy to bring into Inkscape, sort the parts out and then put into lasergrbl to CNC laser. Given a lot of the cut parts for the Fuselage are ply shouldnt be too expensive to do. Mark

I’d better have a look at lightburn as I’m still using laser grbl which also works well but sounds like less feature than lightburn Mark

Hi Ron Did you re draw the fornier plans in cad. Up to now I’ve been using vector pdf from outer zone which are a doddle in Inkscape as you can easily extract the curves. Now if the rcme plans were supplied as vector pdf😉 I was going to draw the Peggy sue plans by scanning and tracing the ribs in Inkscape and maybe solid works or fusion for the formers. interested in your workflow. Mark

Phoenix is great and thought me loads before I flew my tiny trainer and eflite apprentice

Vectorised PDFs would be great as they are also easy to pull into inscape and then laser cut, bitmaps usually mean you have to re draw. If they manage to do this it would be great for all subscribers (paper or Digital) to be able to get hold of the drawings as it would make CNC so much easier.

Screwfix also have the foam and can usually get it next day if not in stock, easier than B&Q although I think they are the same company, but also often cheaper! (£20.99 in this case) https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-premium-underlay-board-9-76m-/757VJ?kpid=757VJ&ds_kid=92700065751868351&ds_rl=1249407&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_P6dBhD1ARIsAAGI7HC59SXDxQW_04SOSX9jH4pw4wzkG9X25-zd8EpmmoeXr3Ebl8HyUgIaAg2oEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

The easy way to get the paper off Hobbycraft foam board is to soak it in a warm bath, I normmally cut my parts out and float them in the bath for 20 mins in warm water, quite often the paper floats off, and then turn over to do the other side.

Try this one. https://www.flitetest.com/articles/flite-test-tiny-trainer There is also a video that takes you through everything. You can print out the plans and make the 3 channel model with hobbycraft foam board and but a 1806 motor for not much money of eBay or Ali express together with a 15 or 20amp esc. Use cheap 9g servos from servo shop or the like and away you go. You can also get coloured parcel tape off eBay which is great for covering. The model is basically a very basic powered glider and you can add the aileron wing later on.

Just another thought, some clubs will give you a lesson foc on their trainer with a buddy box and from there you could see if you liked flying or not, could be an easy way to try it out. See if there is a bmfa club near you.

I wouldn’t give up too quickly, give it a try, you have an advantage over me in that you are already used to rc, what transmitter and receivers do you have? You can build a flight test model for next to nothing😀

I learnt to fly with a flight test tiny trainer, cheap to build and easy to learn with, build with hobbycraft foam board for little money.

Could you run a pair of wires so that you could in future connect two batteries in parallel so you create effectively one large battery which would always allow equal power for each motor even if one battery was not quite up to scratch?

I tend to leave mine on top of a tall drawer unit so never move it but if you lift it by the base no need to do any more setup I’d expect. As you just need to put a micro std card in to print could you not just leave it where it’s stored and print there, maybe on a shelf?

I’ve got an ender 3 and I think mine came with an upgraded glass build plate, spend some time squaring it and levelling the bed and it works fine for me, I use pla+ filament that I got off Amazon, can’t complain and that’s a good price. Mark