Gunnar Borseth

I have a Raydiowarm transmitter mitt, but I am not really comfortable with it. I prefer hunting gloves. You can pull off the thumb and the fingers. Suits both thumb and pinch pilots. https://www.jaktogfriluft.no/klar/tilbehor/hansker-og-votter/beaver-fleecehanske-tinsulate When I was younger we could go flying in -15 celcius. Now I like to stay indoor in the winter.

I’ve had the same thing happend to one HS85 with only one flight on it. After winter storage it did not move. A spray of WD-40 or contact cleaner in the pot had it going again. It was one of four aileron servos on an Ultimate so It would not have been a disaster if it had failed in flight. Even at full deflection. But I would not have used it as a single servo on any control surface. The easy answer is don’t use them if you don’t trust them.

I have never had an in-flight servo failure in 37 years of flying. That makes me think I’m not completly wrong. My models also «feels» right to me when I fly them. Very subjective and non-scientific of course. Being a rule of thumb it will not always be correct. As you point out, 3D models need more torque. At least for the more aggressive manouvers.

I have a very simple rule of thumb regarding servo torque. Servo torque should be equal to the weight of the finished plane. Double on rudder if its an aerobatic model. Jets, pylon racers and other may need more, but as a rule of thumb this works well for me.

15 years ago I worked in a hobby shop. A guy came in with his wife looking to buy a rc car for himself. He found a monster truck he liked. His wife looked at the price tag and asked if it was realy necessary to spend so much money on a toy car. Being a salesman I tried to help, so I asked the wife how much it cost the last time she was at the hairdresser. She looked at me and said , « I think its time for you to shut up now». True story.

Mine was a push fit. Remember to take the plastic of the top of the new battery before you press it in.

Are there some sort of end stop inside the holes for the wing joiner? If they want you mark the centre of the joiner and glue one side first, it might be because its possible to push the wing joiner to far in. If so a one step glue job will end in tears.

A decent hot air gun works well.

Download the plan from Outerzone. The Lazy Bee can fly so slow and low you can show off the engine both in the air and on the ground🙂

When I installed a Rcexel ignition some years ago, the sensor was loose in the housing. I glued in a plastic wedge to fix it in place after the polarity of the magnet was checked. I got mine from Just Engines. They should know.

The manual leaves a lot to be desired. If you have the correct firmware you have to go deeper into the menus til you find z probe wizard. Adjust the nozzle height and store settings. Then you need to add the g-code commands to your start up g-codes. G28 and G29 I believe. I had a lot of trouble getting this to work myself, but YouTube came to the rescue. 3D printscape and Teaching Tech have both exellent videos on the subject. Good luck!

2K acrylics usually don’t play nice with enamel paint. If the enamel is old and well cured, it may be ok if you mist on a couple of coats before a flow coat. But you can also end up with a boiling mess. 2K acrylic over enamel primer works fine for some reason…

I owned a SC 52 some years ago. The idle needle was very sensitive because it’s blunt/square on the end. After 7 deadsticks in a row I got mad and pulled out the needle, put it in a drill and filed the last 2 mm of the tip sharp. After that the engine ran like a dream. It may be wise to check if spare needles are available before you go this route.

Go for the DLE. I suspect the carb troubles your mates had was caused by ethanol in pump petrol. It will ruin rubber gaskets and diaphams. You can get rebuild kit for some carbs that tolerates ethanol, I believe, if you use pump petrol. In my club everyone uses Aspen premix. It contain no ethanol and gives easy starting. Albeit a bit expencive. Shell V-power 98 octane is also ethanol free, at least in my part of the world. Mix with good quality syntetic oil. Mineral oil can cause the diaphrams to stick and make the engine almost impossible to start if not used for a longer periode of time.

Hello, and greetings from Norway. In my experience the needles on the ST carb interacts a lot more than on other carbs. So you may have to make several adjustments to both needles to find the sweet spot. Once set they are great carbs. Adjust with onboard glow switced off.