Engine Doctor

All sorted now thanks.

As per title , has anyone got a header pipe and muffler for an ASP/SC 91 FS ?

Pm sent. E.D.

Are you looking for rc throttle ? If so I have an AM 15 that has a throttle fitted , I think I also have a AM 10 with a throttle . Same sort of size as the PAW but a bit lighter. I also have quite a few other diesels without throttle If interested then PM me . E.D.

Yes s.....l.....o....w this morning together with error messages !

What opening are you setting the main needle at ? 2 to 2 1/2 turns should do to start with then set the idle needle . It sounds like your trying to run it on the idle jet/needle

Try leaving a bit more film to get hold of then its easier to pull/stretch around compound curves. You could also try using a hot air gun on these high stretch areas, the modelling sort not a diy type as they get too hot. Ps watch out for a coloured smears on your collar if using your home iron 😉. Some films can leave the coloured adhesive on the iron! My wife was not amused when i started many years ago 🤬.

Now sold.

Yeah real fun Paul when they stick together and light up you world. Just unwrap your batttery carefully and replace the complete balance leads , a simple job. Remember to remove any rings watches etc and anything that could short out the cell terminals.

For a static model just do what yiur happy with. Compound curves will be your problem with sheet wood covering. Have fun and enjoy.

No use ordinary cyano. Obviously check a small area first but all expanded polypropelene with various names takes nornal cyano well. Lightly sand the carbon strip first to remove any release agent . Uhu por will set rubbery just what you dont want in this instance and wont penetrate around the carbon strip.

If its static just use tissue and dope to fix the tisdue, wetting tissue first allows some compound curves to be covered . 9nce dry light sand then sanding sealer and non shrinking dope to seal the finish. If you want to cover a flying model try some proper heat shrink iron on covering. If you want see through that looks like tissue or you want to paint it try some matt laminating film .any of the heat shrink type or laminating films will go round compound curves weĺl. Brown paper and pva is a good srtong finish for sheeted areas but no good for open framd work.

Would that be Krumschied mufflers , or something like that ? Stuart McKay may be able to help . He once distributed them for Moki engines. not cheap but work well and are very well constructed. Rich. Unless intended model is a floater type high wing with light loading, dont bother below 20cc . The DLE 20 is a great engine but generally petrol only comes into its own from around 30cc up . try silencing anything smaller and the silencer required will kill the power even more. Please dont use with supplied rubbish so called silencers . they are site losers and just point the exhaust in a direction before cracking and falling apart.

Time to sell on some of my collection . First up is a 7cc Taplin twin Early production air-cooled model Number 142 .Unused or mounted in a model . Only fuel its seen was its test in the factory when it was made. There is a small scratch on the spinner where some clumsy person dropped it see pics , but otherwise is as it left the factory. It has been oiled with some air tool oil. Comes in original box and still has the opened seal in place and original instruction sheet. Collection preferred from North Kent or post will be via Royal Mail special delivery at cost to buyer. UK only please. Asking £450 OVNO. Bank transfer please or cash on collection.

And he was the boss ?

Total rubbish this morning on Chrome , usually instant access between threads but takimg an age today . Seems to be bad every weekend with "error 500 internal server " pages often showing. All other sites working fine . Have they bought any secondhand gear from the post office Horizon group ? 🙃

Oh yes . Virtually any glow or diesel side port or reed valve or as PatMc points out disc ( not to be confused with rotary disc )or clack valve , a sort of modified reed valve engine can run equally well in either direction ; but to be fair they are not engines that you would use a starter on and usually only hand start them while holding the model. Cox 049 and peewee frustratingly start backwards a lot of the time unless you use the small Cox starter motor . Bigger Petrol engines with reed valve or side port will also run in either direction although the timing usually prevents full power and has to be set up/timed for good reverse running . Fourstrokes can also run backwards but usually only until the charge is used up in a few seconds but its still enough to push a model backwards as the exhaust becomes a WOT .

Unless its a Mills ,ED comp or a Cox 😉

Very good . Keep practicing and you will soon be able to fly straight and level 😁. Brilliant very clever. My old brain and fingers can only dream about those reactions .

More info on the Answer in Outer Zone plans .

I built one a few years back . Covered it in Fibre Span ( Horrible stuff ) Light span would be much better. Power was an OS 10 or 15 and was a bit OTT and heavy . It flew fine but fast due to the heavy engine. Your 1.49 will fly it ok but like mine may be a bit too heavy for a slower gentle flight. Wing is a simple build but with a fair bit of under camber and the hardest part was fixing the covering to the under cambered part. The Elf Bipe is a pretty model, mine is a Ben Buckle 60 inch version with OS 40 FS power with wings built from the Outer Zone plan as I had what I thought was akit but wing parts except ribs and plan were missing. Dont know if there is a original sized 36" kit around .

Base coat should be fully dried/ cured then cleaned thoroughly . Mask applied and sprayed with a similar paint that will adhere . If you can abrade or key the base coat lightly in the the mask with some very fine abbrasive that will help, do so being careful not to lift edges of mask . Spray light coats and when happy with coverage remove the mask while paint is wet. Masks or masking tape will mark uncured paint very quickly . Removing them while paint is wet or very soft prevents a rough or torn edge. Were the masks made from a low tack sheet ? Any agressive adhesive can damaged fresh paint . What was the base coat type , solvent or water based ?

Whoops had just been reading the BMFA mag and went onto auto pilot 😶 Note to self , must get out more and take the pills 😊.

Have you cintacted the BMFA to let them know ? No good talking about it on here unless they know and can do something about it. Same thing happens on our vilage website . When somthing needs the attention of the local authority or police the first action it seems is for many is to post on the websitecor on FB ! Do let BMFA know or give them a call you still grt a real llive person on their phones

Hi Dave . All the water slide transfers i made for some small rc models peeled off. You can buy inkjet self adhesive decal films in clear or white. They work fine . Print your decal allow to dry througly and then spray with a laquer to seal the ink in before cutting from sheet. Inkjet inks do fade a bit in sunlight especially red . I have some black decals on my Eurobat i made 10+ years ago and still look tidy and have stayed stuck down onto film . Dont think they will stick very well to tex covering. That is best painted on.