Engine Doctor

Any program that would attract us model makers would undoubtedly be ruined by the woke, incredibly stupid , inclusive,etc etc modern generation of producers that interfere with the original idea. A prime example wasDavid & Jay 's Travelling tool shed. A program that would and should have grabbbed the imagination of viewers only to be ruined bu David Jason trying to be funny and poor production. Too many interfering woke fingers in the pie these days . Even the Repair shop went through a phase of more time spent telling boring life stoies than showing the actual repair process. I think that has been addressed slightly but still needs a bit more of a nudge. Had a so called Celeb like David Jason been involved then hopefully it would not have made a second series; Jay Blades however does his stuff in a no nonsense way as do the repairers. Dom Chinea has an excellent YouTube Channel for those that havent seen it .Have look hes currently doing stuff an a Ranalagh English wheel inbetween resoring an old Porche and Motorbikes. A good watch.

As most say find a local club . Go along and have a chat with a few of the members/pilots and instructors if present. Make sure you get on with the instructor as this is as important as type of model etc . Dont try to run before you can walk as any model appears very easy to fly in experienced hands . The slower flying models are IMO better to start with for us older flyers when learning to fly as it gives our brains time to catch up ☺️ but even high wing trainers can be very different in terms of speed and stability. Ive tuaght many to fly over the years and usually the younger you are the quicker you learn . Im not a fan of foam models although they often offer a quick way to get flying and some are really good models to teach on ; again speak to an instructor as they will have a better idea of whats best for you possibly after a trial flight on a buddy system. A club instructor will also offer advice on what make of radio is best to offer you Buddy flying while learning. Dont make the mistake of talking to a model shop until you have spoken to a club / instructor as many of the assistants simply have no idea about teaching and will often sell you whatever takes you fancy. Its so annoying to see someone turn up with totally inappropriate model etc sold to them by a model shop . Welcome to the hobby and hope you enjoy it.

Just Google Futaba instruction manual

The Kavan starter as per the picture with Leeds link is an excellent ,powerful ,light and due to its smaller diameter is easy to grip. No drop in performance either . I have used one for years now . They are quite expensive and there are other similar types on the market . The Sullivan and others like them are IMO just an old outdated design

What about Chris Foss Uno Wot ?

Yes it evil stuff but banning it is a bit strong as small birds nest in it and depend on it for protection. But the French authorities dont seem to care about that , do they ? In a rural environment its fine but house developers here in the UK use it in public areas as a decorative shrub then just let it grow wild ! It can be a thorn in the side 😉 but its needed in wild areas like hedges . As already said it help keep out the local two legged wild life.

Here are the pics of the mount i madeto machine the crankcase

If youve removed all the visible residue and lightly wiped over with a degreaser/ thiners then it should be fine. Debonder works by softening the cyano and will evaporate away . The closer fit of the joint the stronger it will be. Good luck with repair.

The thorns on Blackthorne were used as nails in the past. Evil things.

I made a mounting block to hold the case on my Bodo Mills c/ case. It was mounted to this using the mounting lugs and the block was then mounted in the chuck. Reason was so as not to damage or mark the case . Cant find pic on my tablet but have it on my pc and will post later.

I have Just been browsing on couple of well known online auction site and noticed lots of adds for "OS" glow plugs and many are obviously fakes . All of the pictures show the markings on the plugs as etched or lasered on with a dull appearance whereas the markings should be stamped and shiny . and the fakes are not that much cheaper !

If the sub trim is set to high that will prevent throttle cut from working.

Good luck I will watch with interest . I have never made a complete engine from scratch but have machined a Bodo Mills crankcase from barstock.

Ah a stow away 🙂 wel they had been in the scrap box for a few months . Check the ports for any hidden inflatable boats .🙂

Dont take any chances Jim . Take battery out to recharge .

No the power to the servo is as per battery unless a regulator is fitted , usually fitted when a lipo pack is used. Most servos are fine on 5 cell Nihm check the servo spec . JR servos were well known for letting the magic smoke out if powered by a freshly charged 5 cell pack. Erflog. If using NiMh battery try to get the pre charged cells as they dont self discharge like ordinary NiMh . Dont buy anything with capacity higher than 2,300mah . 2000mah is ample for a few flights The cells with higher capacity are not as robust and drop voltage more under load . If using digital servos then think about Sub C pack as digital servos can draw a higher current than AA cells can handle.

Hi Erflog a lot of the glowstarter/ glowsticks came with low output wall wart chargers that wouldnt charge the battery enough, usually the 120 mah ones. The 300 mah were much better and gave a decent charge. Owners would stop useing them due to thinking the battery was dead when it was the rubbish chargers they came with.This modern idea that everything needs to be USB compatible is getting annoying and i cant see is giving a "c" or"sub C " a decent charge. Do you know whate the output is of the USB thingy ? If you have a imax6 or similar then use the adapter intended for glowsticks usually included Charge at a rate to get the battery just warm . It wont hurt the NiHm battery. Better still a constant rate charger like we used some years ago will charge it just fine on an overnight charge.

I have an Fx with the chrome shedding problem in my spares / junk box and parts prices to fix it , if they were available are just too high. Stick to an SF . They are good dependable engines made before OS out- sourced the plating to Taiwan . I think it was down to polution laws and like many businesses around the world OS moved the process to a country who dont worry about poluting the planet . Anything later than SF are prone to the chrome peeling issue . Not sure about the larger engine range though. I have a OS 160 AX to strip and clean and fit new bearings and hope cylinder is OK . You cant tell by feeling compression as in early stages of chrome peeling the compression will stil feel fine. If it must be an OS for you , ask if you can remove head and check around top of cylinder aand cylinder walls before parting with cash. We refer to it as chrome as in ABC construction but its called Nickasil plating so assume its a type of Nickel. Ive never sèen a ASP, SC etc with peeling chrome, even MDS got it right although they both had other issues.

🤞Fingers crossed

If it looks about right it generally is 😉

I think they do but only last a short while . The conspiracy theorists would say that its all planned and in the event of civil unrest all communications apart from battery powered radio sets , could be controlled at the flick of a switch 😟. So perhaps it was a genius who approved it 😉

Easy mistake to make Jim. The multi leads can be problematic. As a rule i dont charge Tx's on a smart charger through the jack as there is usualy circuitry that prevents the smart charger from reading the voltage. Hope you get sorted for Sunday. When i came back to RC in the late 70's there were a few popular brands around all on 35 meg. It was common practice then to mix and match the tx's , rx's and servos. Unlike today the cost of the radio was comparatively high so if type A would work with type C or B we would use it. Everybody seemed to know about the differences in polarity between the brands and modified the wiring and ctystals accordingly . Futaba, JR , Hitec and Sanwa were the main players then an JR and i believe Sanwa had the different charge polarity although back then they also had a different sized jack plugs that couldnt be used on another makeof Tx. Sanwa used to wire thier servos differently , a simple fix and JR servos would burn out if more than 4 cell packs were used. Hitec were generally easily interchangeable with Futaba unless you conected a Futaba and Hitec tx with a Hitec buddy lead. It would instantly blow components on the buddy board mount in the Futaba tx . How did i find out ? When the magic smoke came out ! I was assured by a LMS that the Hitec lead was compatible who then denied saying that . Simple fix and Ripmax sent a pack of the components FOC to change, very helpful . All surface mount then and easier to replace. I stick mainly to Futaba now with FrSky 2.4 module and recievers and tend to remove Tx batteries for charging.

Its called progress. 🙃 Although I can still call local number without dialing the area code.The worlds turned upside down 🙃

Hi Jon . Bits are on their way. Royal Mail second class Im affraid but shouldnt be too long.

Hi Jon no just pay postage to Macmillan charity or similar ?