GrumpyGnome

Yes, that's right. The one in the link is just that.....

I'm using the blue 'frog tape' ..... I'll try some of the many rolls of insulating tape I have.

If you're going to get one before joining a club then that is an excellent choice. So yes, I'd recommend that, but I'd get it from a UK shop ... e.g. https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/radiomaster-tx16s-mkii/

The pilot must have been suspicious as he seemed to try and bale out at take off.....

You do. But you don't know it's history, or how it's been treated. Nor the individual selling it. In time, as you become clubmates, it is much less risky than buying from a total stranger.... @Hoochykinseven if you don't go down the club route, there'll probably be some local slope soarers with their various transmitters, who will be happy to talk. Not while they are flying or rigging their models though...

I just did a quick experiment.... i painted a segment of a flap white, ready for a black stripe, and masked off a section of the base grey paint, and painted it white. On the latter of these, I've applied 2 coats of cheap B&Q emulsion. On lifting the tape, I have a nice crisp line, with no damage to the tissue. On the bevelled edge of the flap I am using, I must have missed a bit when adding the tissue, as the base paint has lifted, revealing the film. When the larger area is dry , I'll mask off ready for a black stripe, but at the moment I'm happy it survives my ham-fisted efforts!

I now have visions of Airbus engineers buying AS3X receivers......

Can't say a Tempest looks like a P51.......... but each to their own....I for example am not a fan of Edge/Extra aeroplanes

Resurrecting this thread..... On my P47, I used laminating film, then light sanding, then primer, then paint. I did the base ciat of olive, then the invasion stripes. The masking tape fid lift some paint off, so it was never pristine. General use also chipped the paint revealing the film. I managed to damage the model (broke one wing) so have taken the opportunity to re-cover both. On mt SE5, I used lam film, then tissue, then paint, which worked well, apart from a few wrinkles in the tissue - added character and authenticity! This time, I have made a better job of the covering and am ready to paint. My question is around the best ways to add the invasion stripes - I am concerned that masking tape will lift or tear the tissue. What do you do? I'm useless at painting straight lines by hand... I coukd experiment, but I'm more than happy to use other peoples experience 🙂

Shaun is absolutely right - I had (wrongly) assumed OP could fly as he's upgrading from a FlySky set.

Good job!

MKII with 4in1 is what I have. Any reason you've picked a US(?) vendor? I'm assuming you're in the UK, and there are UK vendors......

EdgeTX is supported and developed, OpenTX isn't. Simple as that reallh. As OpenTX already had all the basics, new versions of EdgeTX are unlikely to contain anything really startling, or ground-breaking, so they will be similar. Just like new versions of mainstream software like Excel will be pretty similar to the older versions. I agree partly, and don't use the touchscreen much at the field - selecting models, and a tweak or two to rates.. In fact, I disable it via a switch so I don't inadvertently press it. But I personally prefer it to using the scroll wheel........ but you have the choice, which is part if the philosophy of OpenTX/EdgeTX - you're not restricted in how you do things. As is mine. It doesn't make the building any easier, that's a fact. In comparison with other menu-driven systems, controlling the model once it's in the air is going to be pretty much the same. But you can do so much more with it IF YOU WANT TO. I don't like programming computers - I do like being able to relatively quickly being able to do things in the logical way you can with OTX/ETX. As an example, I have an Ultrastick. it had flaps and ailerons. It took me about 30 minutes to have the following working fine, with all trims working as required: a. Three flight modes with rates and expo on a single switch, some trims identical across modes, some separate b. Conventional separate flaps and ailerons c. Flaperons d. Crow brakes e. Snap flaps f. Synchronised slow up and slow down of flaperons g. Separate flaps won't deploy over a selected throttle setting b. Separate flaps if deployed, will be cancelled, if the throttle is above a certain setting (a 'go around situation). It took a clubmate longer to just get his two elevator servos working together properly on a menu driven set. I certainly aren't a 'must have' person. I use a Kindle Fire as my tablet - it's pretty useless but does what I need. My car is 13 years old. My mobile phone is 8 years old. I still wear clothes I've had for decades.... I've never used a LUA script. But if there was something fancy I wanted to do, the option is there. I'm sure there is functionality in all menu-driven stuff that I would not use... Wax lyrical about firmware updates? Well, occasionally, I'm sure an update will be released that's a 'must have' but nobody forces anyone to update. And firmware updates are a fact of life for most modern sets now. In summary, different strokes for different folks. OTX/ETX is all about choice and flexibility. How boring would if be if we had no choice, and all thought the same?

Receivers can be scarily expensive but I think basic Futaba or Spektrum receivers are £30/£40.... basic FrSky a bit less. You can get 6 channel FlySky receivers for under £15 (as you probably know!), and they work fine with Radiomaster mpm transmitters. I have a few in my smaller models and have had no issues at all.

@leccyflyerAgree 100%. I'd still like a Hornet though.......

In the price bracket mentioned, you can buy new radios from Futaba, FrSky, Radiomaster to name just three mainstream manufacturers. In my experience, the radio link for all three is rock solid and you'll get something new and unused. In terms of functionality and flexibility, the order is Radiomaster, FrSky, Futaba. My Radiomaster links to models with receivers from Spektrum (DSM2 and DSMX) both original and clones, FrSky original and clones, FlySky, Futaba SFHSS, TopRC. Futaba receivers are generally more expensive than FrSky receivers. Radiomaster receivers are clones of FrSky receivers of an older protocol (D8], and are cheaper than original FrSky Functionality of Futaba sets are menu driven, FrSky and Radiomaster use OpenTX or EdgeTX which is completely flexible - if you think of something you want, you can do it. There are lots of scare stories about how complicated OpenTX/EdgeTX is - this is not true. It requires a little thought but I managed to get flaps linked to ailerons or completely separate surfaces, plus crow braking, plus snap flap far easier than a clubmate did with his relatively high end menu-driven set. Don't be offended, but it sounds like your heart is set on a used DX8. It's a fine radio and will allow you to fly most things, with a nice solid radio link. But remember - caveat emptor. I owned a few Spektrum sets and was happy with them, then the flexibility and value for money of FrSky dragged me into their world; then Radiomaster came along just as I needed a back up for my FrSky (the Radiomaster soon became my favoured set because it did everything the FrSky did, but also took advantage of EdgeTX functionality when development of OpenTX ended).

@Shaun WalshA very good reason....

I suppose it depends on what you want it to do, and what you consider cheap. If you ask 10 peoples opinion or advice on buying a transmitter, you'll get 11 answers, with not 1 being unbiased! Personally, I'd buy a Radiomaster TX16. It can do just about anything, has more channels than you'll ever need, is of better quality than the FlySky, and if you get it with a multi-module (an option when you buy) it can bind to many different manufacturers receivers, so you can take advantage of the market. But I am biased as that's what I have! If you can, visit your local club and chat to them. The members will undoubtedly talk to you about their choice, and may even let you hold them to see if you like the feel. Previous advice would have been to get what is popular with clubmates so you can share experience, but you now have t'internet for that..... I am happy to expand on my journey (I have minimal brand loyalty) if you want.

I admire your tenacity....

Spektrum DX8 is discontinued I believe - replaced by NX8? Any particular reason you want Spektrum? At the NX8 price-point, the world is your lobster. What's popular at your club? What do you like the feel of?

No doubt it was initially occupied by the dog.....

The OP also asked about Ethanol in petrol......

Why not? Whatever works for you..... many many ways to skin this particular moggy - although I like to keep the actuation of gear isolated in case of issues....... which would allow for example, landing mode (lower idle + touch of up trim) if the gear is stuck up. And flaps, to allow me to choose to use them or not, depending on weather conditions. How to use the functionality of your radio is a VERY individual thing.

Hi Jack Hopefully you're considering returning just because you miss the eain! I'm afraid I've never bought individual ingredients for fuel so can't comment on that. Ready made glow fuel (last time I ordered some a few months ago) was between 21 pounds sterling and 35 pounds sterling depending on brand, mix, and nitromethane content. Shipping is expensive as it has to come by courier not Royal Mail. For example, a well known model shop was 22 pounds for a gallon, plus 10 pounds shipping. However, some retailers will deliver free if you buy in units of 4. Some people hate this fuel though.... I've always been happy with it. I prefer to use 5% ethanol in my petrol engines simply because that is what I used to set them up. As with many things in this hobby, opinions on 10% vary.... hopefully some others will chip in!

@Peter Jenkinsregarding the beep...Ah, I see. Yes, I think any OpenTX/EdgeTX tranny could easily do a beep at a pre-programmed point. Smart people could probably be able to use a slider/pot to change the position of that beep as well..... I suspect most mid/high range sets with other operating systems could too. (I'd have to make it haptic feedback not a beep though 🙂 ) Re calm/windy settings, I'd never thought of that tbh.... something I'd put on a switch if I did it. Might have a try. Your particular field of interest keeps raising interesting questions and solutions that a 'hack' flier like me would never consider. Keep 'em coming! As regards toto doing it, I think he's possibly better off concentrating on just learning to fly at this point - enough to think about I expect!