Jump to content

Tom Gaskin 1

Members
  • Posts

    135
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Tom Gaskin 1

  1. George Stringwell is another advocate for the Mylar/Tissue route. Years ago I followed his guide to cover the open structure of a 2 metre 'Silver Cloud' glider that is still going strong today. Mike Woodhouse's website is a jolly good place to start. Tom
  2. Wind-chill down to minus five didn't deter the SRFC Hanky-Panky formation dancing team this morning. Lovely and sunny but oh-so cold!! Tom
  3. Got some flying in yesterday at the Sussex RFC's field with about half-a-dozen other hardy souls. Today is sunnier but very windy and a lot colder, so I'm going to stay in the workshop. Tom
  4. I use what are known as 'running gloves" - made of very thin synthetic material that keeps the wind off your hands, while being thin enough to still feel the sticks. Alternatively get hold of a 'tranny mitt" to put both hands and tx in, there is even room in the mitt for one of those fishermans' hand warmers 😀 Tom
  5. Half a dozen of us took advantage of the 'calm before the storm' today. Took these two with me again. Probably the last flights of the year if the weather forecast is to be believed! Tom
  6. My 'go to' setup for a sixty-sized model would be an AXI4120-14 on a 5S1P 4000 mAh lipo, running a 13x6.5 prop, with an 80 amp ESC. A pricey motor I grant you, but they have yet to disappoint.It's a 5055, 660 KV motor so there are alternatives. The Texan 2 (originally built for I.C.) has the 4120, while the Chili Breeze behind it uses an AXI2820-10. Tom
  7. While it is no consolation to the recent joiners, the BMFA subs did not increase for a number of years, thus causing this apparent 'jump' in subs. My club has just announced that it is increasing the club fees as well... Still jolly good value to my mind - especially when compared to other sports/pastimes. Tom
  8. All valid answers, but it does presuppose that Bas can 'see' any of his photos from his pc. Tom
  9. Billy No Mates here at the SRFC field today - upside is I don't have to share my chokky biscuits 😀 HP and a Sig Kiwi were hooliganed in the wind. Tom
  10. Toto, Don't bother recovering the hole that you made, it will allow any warm air out of the fuselage. I have the same arrangement in the Electric Tutor that I use as a club trainer. Tom
  11. A chap in our club has been flying an electric version, complete with 'Upkeep' fitted for a few weeks now. It goes very nicely indeed, but he did have a few challenges along the way. Tom
  12. A lovely day at the Sussex RFC field and had fun with my hanky Planky, Mam'selle and VMAR Texan2 Tom
  13. I've had my SLEC jig for some time now and find that it really comes into its' own during a re-build! Getting the 'jigsaw' straight is so much easier. Tom
  14. I've had one of the SLEC model stands for some years now, a fantastic piece of kit that supports all of my models Tom
  15. I charge mine from the usb outlet ihat are integral with our kitchen wall sockets - they are rated at 5V 2.1A and didn't appear to take too long to charge it to 'green light' Tom
  16. Quite right Don, my mistake, the T-tail Perkins Albatross was a 2 metre ship, not hundred inch Tom
  17. Chris Foss has an electric conversion PDF on his website for the kit Wot 4 & Uno Wot. Having converted both I can say that the conversion is dead easy. It shows AXI 4120/14 for the Wot 4 and an AXI2820/10 for the Uno Wot as these were the only quality motors around at the time. Tom
  18. My go-to 70 equivalent is an AXI 4120/14, 60A esc on 5 cells and a 13.5 by 6 prop. This is a 5055 size motor of 660kv, that is good for a kilowatt (about 1.2 hp) Tom
  19. The Wot 4 is a nicely aerobatic model that will do anything you want, either way up, providing that it is balanced and trimmed properly (a statement that is true for most non-trainer models) It does sound like yours is nose-heavy and simply needs the CG moving rearwards a bit. Check this by the 'dive test' at a safe height close the throttle and push the model into a 45 degree dive. Let the sticks go and watch what it does; a gradual pull-out (or better still a straight line) is what you want, if the dive increases add nose weight, if the model pulls out strongly remove nose weight. Tom
  20. What would be rather pleasant is to have the ability to model a Tempest ii with the radial engine. Tom
  21. Hi G74, welcome to the forum! Yes, you will need a separate esc for each brushless motor. What size is this model? Do you have any motors in mind? Tom
  22. Adrian, Ron Van Sommeren has a worthwhile thread on rcgroups on the wire length question that is still relevent today despite the age of the thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds It seems to me that only 'quality' esc's state a battery wire limitation (Jeti quote the 200 mm length) while other sellers ignore it altogether Tom
  23. Conventional wisdom if for the battery to esc leads should be no more than 200mm. As Peter says the ESC to motor leads can be as long as you like. I have a Dornier 335 with about a metre between the rear motor and its' ESC. Tom
×
×
  • Create New...