Martin Harris - Moderator

If that was your experience, perhaps you resolved a poor connection when swapping polarity? There are advantages in efficiency and component life with correct spark polarity in spark ignition systems but that’s a different matter.

Who knows whether the designer/test pilot prefers to balance level or nose down, unless it's specified in the notes. However, the difference is tiny in relation to the acceptable range of C of G location. Specified locations are, at best, starting points for tuning to personal taste.

Mine came in very handy for setting up my 1/4 scale Cub which has functional struts and scaleish construction where the washout is controlled by them!

A rearward C of G seems the likely cause to me. Excessive incidence would make it want to dive when inverted. Thrust line is easy to diagnose as the trim will alter significantly with power changes. In the absence of any experienced opinion of this particular model (SEA-237B?) perhaps try their suggestion of 10mm forward (i.e. 110mm from the l.e. at the wing root).

Sadly for these two, both canopies and some fairly large bits were unrecovered. But you're certainly right - just lately, we've discovered the effectiveness of hot glue guns for foam repairs - I've repaired worse damage and had models (no, not all mine!) flying within 15 minutes of crashing!

Odd - my Maplin sourced one looks identical but is branded “James Products”. However, it’s always worked ok and with the relatively recently discovered carburettor cleaner, very well. Dirt streams off and small particles seem to emerge readily from hidden places. You do need to avoid leaving aluminium in the solution too long if you don’t want it to darken.

Although based on exciting water molecules to cause micro bubbles, I’ve found that use of a suitable cleaning fluid is important for good results.

Is that in the correct orientation for what you require?

They are/were available commercially - I acquired one very similar to this a few years ago. Perhaps try model car equipment suppliers? https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/151028-12v-power-distribution-box.html#&gid=1&pid=1

Quote of the day following a mid air between two fellow members this afternoon - “I don’t understand how it happened…we were nowhere near each other!”

Welcome to the forum. I have no idea whether Outrunner still has this for sale after nearly 2 years (or perhaps someone else with a similar model) or how practical it would be to ship it to you but as a new forum member, don’t be surprised or offended if any seller wants to ensure payment has cleared before dispatching goods.

PM sent

Pete, I’m not sure why your request has slipped through the net but I’ll send a reminder to Beth Ashby, who deals with these matters. Please give it a day or two and if there’s still any problem, perhaps drop her a PM.

No problem for me.

It is probably not the case here but your definition of “dare” could have some significance. I have noticed many times that people don’t fully tighten prop nuts. My standard advice is to apply enough pressure to a properly sized spanner to make your eyeballs bulge! Proper prop nuts and shafts will not strip under these conditions. I also tighten the locknut against the main nut i.e. I only use a spanner on the locknut while holding the prop, rather than bracing the main nut with a spanner, in case the thread “snugging” relaxes the pressure on the driver by a fraction. I might have missed it but if not, what type of prop are you using? I had similar symptoms on a well used OS40FS in a Puppeteer with a light wooden propeller, the slightest hint of pinking when leaning out would have the prop off. Changing to a APC of the same dimensions tamed “the beast”.

That’s unusual Paul. It’s often caused by too lean a mixture leading to pre-ignition. Lightweight wooden props can exacerbate the situation due to lack of flywheel effect, as can excessive compression and higher nitromethane percentages.

What type/sixe propeller are you using? What fuel?

The thread title change makes it a bit clearer Phil - thanks. I recall being rather bemused by the change of name and the way Giantshark implemented their global replace does seem rather naive!

A bit of nostalgia? Dates back to before the (rather odd!) change of name to Giantshark...certainly one of the nails in the coffin of many model shops with pretty good prices and good service (in my experience anyway).

In case anyone else finds themselves in the situation of wrestling with a wayward CofG, having been the victim of a few models presented to me to test fly after being assured the position was "as plan", the best advice I can give is to come off the throttle as much as practical for level flight, establish a neutral elevator position and try to avoid chasing the attitude/airspeed with it. Fly your circuit with as small control movements as possible - excessive banking will need elevator correction that may trigger overcorrection - and regulate your height and approach (as is correct practice) with the throttle.

I’ve was given a Dart which has a “swollen” crankshaft where the intake hole is cross drilled - history unknown but maybe from crash damage? With the tiny power output of these engines, could yours have a similar problem allowing it to fire but not self sustain through excessive mechanical drag as the prop takes up any clearance and pulls the crankshaft forwards?

Mod’s hat on - don’t worry, it’s the humour thread. Normal hat on, brilliant Shaun!

It depends on the servo orientation. We had a club member who decided that Kyosho had somehow managed to make an error in their pre-installation on his new FW190, carefully removed and relocated the printed covering and reversed one hatch to allow the servo to be installed in mirror orientation to match the aileron servos (don’t ask!). It cost him two burnt out servos before he asked for advice… If that wasn’t bad enough, another member, experienced enough to know a lot better, did the same thing a few weeks later with his!

But zey will say it only once…

Welcome to the forum, Emu. First step is to swap the extension lead connections to the servos. If the fault moves to the other flap then you have a faulty Y lead. If the problem is unchanged, suspect a faulty servo.