John Payne

Nigel, you should have held out for the chocolate ice cream....... Cheers, John.

I have a Myford Super 7, made in the early 60s, and it is an excellent lathe. If you can find a good second hand one, not cheap I know, you will find it will do most of the stuff you need. Mine has imperial dials and I have no trouble making thing to metric dimensions, I just use Zeus tables to do the conversion. Works for me. Not done any screw cutting as the threads I cut are more easily made using taps and dies. They are addictive and there are many attachments to be bought for it, some necessary, some not so. The main thing to get is some good measuring equipment, micrometer and digital calliper, and some decent cutting tools, probably carbide tools if you are not comfortable grinding your own. Oh, and have fun! Cheers, John.

All those sci-fi films are coming to mind! They are amazing, thanks for loading up the videos BB. Cheers, John.

Sorry guys, forget to say that this was all on my IPad. Cheers, John.

Hi guys, I checked and had the same access problem. I used my subscriber number as suggested still no joy. Then tried logging out and back in as David wrote and all is now fine. It looks as though the system needs to be refreshed to make the change. I also have no problems with pages disappearing. Hope this helps. Cheers, John.

Sorry, double post.Edited By John Payne on 31/01/2012 08:09:16

I am using a PAW 19 throttled in a vintage model, Orbit Gas Buggy from the Ben Buckle range, and is excellent. It throttles well and will run for minutes at tick-over and gently pull the model round and then open up to full throttle with no problem. Something like the 29 R/C should be about right I would think for relaxed flying. Good luck with it. Cheers, John.

Hi John, an unusual problem. If you are running off one ESC, can it provide the amount of current required for all functions? As I understand it, it isn't necessarily the battery voltage, but the current that the ESC provides that is important. Just a thought, but try it with an rx pack and see it it still happens, even if you have to disconnect the ESC to try it. Cheers, John.

Hi Alex, I'm afraid that it is unavoidable with glow motors. As Olly pointed out you can minimise it by fitting a deflector to the silencer output stub and there are good silicone ones available that do the job nicely. Should be available from the local model shop, but certainly from the online guys. Make sure you get the right one for the size of engine, the exhaust outlets get bigger with the engine size. They are held one with a ratchet strap and positioned to get most of the oil away from the airframe. Cheers, John.

Thorough testing Steve, nicely done. And yes, it was cold yesterday wasn't, but a lovely sky to fly against. Cheers, John.

You do a good job lads, and I know it isn't always easy. Thanks for your efforts. Have a good Christmas. Cheers, John.

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Nice post Steve, and good to know that there are people about who can tell engines how to behave properly. By the way, if it starts to talk back I would worry if I were you........ Nice one mate. Cheers, John.

Hi David, just caught up with this thread. Sorry to hear about your problems, unusual for an OS. One thought occurred to me on looking at the photos of the tank. You mentioned that the tank had "clunked" ( the clunk weight had gone forward ) and a way of stopping this is to put a short piece of brass tubing in the silicon pick-up tubing in the tank. Cut the tubing in half and put in a piece around an inch and a half long ( about 40mm for you new boys! ) and then shorten the silicon/brass tube to its' original length. No need to push the brass into the middle of the silicon so it is completely covered, just a normal connection each end of the insert. The final assembly would be - clunk weight/silicon tube/brass tube/silicon tube/tank outlet. (if this doesn't make sense, let me know and I will get a photo). This will have the effect of stiffening up the pick-up piping and stop it bending in the middle. Make sure the clunk weight stll misses the bottom of the tank. Might not stop the engine cutting problem, but it will stop the tank "clunking" on a "less than perfect" landing. Another thing to check is the pick-up nipple on the silencer that the pressure pipe connects to. Make sure it is clear as this would stop the tank breathing properly and cause a partial vacuum as the fuel gets used up. Seen this one a couple of times. Hope these thoughts help. Hope you can fix it OK and get back to enjoying your flying. Cheers, John.

Just to add to the confusion, it is the same from my iPad. It isn't doing this on other sites to this degree, so perhaps the site is struggling behind the scenes.

Hi Stephen, great models. I also like the vintage style models although I tend to build them from plans, but then I probably have a lot more free time. I have an SC 52 four stroke and had similar problems with it. Thebproblem was with the low speed needle which was loose and kept adjusting itself, hence the stopping. Apparently this was a known problem due to a poor thread form on the needle. My solution was to use PTFE tape, plumbers use it on pipe threads, on the needle to assist the thread and the problem has now gone. The engine now runs fine at low throttle. Good luck on finding the solution, and even more good luck on getting the weather to fly them! Cheers, John.

Hi Martin, one lipo to two motors (each with their own ESC) but it was the power lines that I got crossed. If you know the Twinstar it was the three pronged connector block where I made the error. I connected one motor with the pins offset, hence the crossed connection, and thus proving that the connectors are not idiot proof! Once I can get back into the workshop I will be giving all the remaining components a thorough check over to look for burnt out tracks as you have suggested. Thanks for the interest. Cheers, John.

So, after the burn out, the one ESC that had no black wire left was using the motor black wire to earth back? Please excuse my "non techy" approach but electronics is not my good suit! Does this mean that when you have a separate receiver battery you only need the signal wire from the receiver to the ESC to make it work? (I take your point about losing the receiver battery now Tim) And thanks for the interest Tim and Frank. Cheers, Not Quite So Confused of Nuneaton.

Hi Tim, thanks for the reply. The receiver battery harks back to when I was on 35MHz stuff and I only got rid of interference (?) when the local experts suggested it might be the answer. Something about spikes on the long leads, but I have to confess I didn't fully understand, but it did work. Anyway, perhaps I didn't make it clear with the rambling, the ESCs were OK, the lipo was OK, the only thing that had burnt out were the two links to the ESCs from the receiver (they go through a Y lead into the receiver) and all else looks unscathed (apart from some foam in the fus..... Does that help?

Confession first, I made blunder with my Twinstar today and what happened next was strange to me, so some answers would be helpful. To set the scene, my Twinstar has two brushless motors with ESCs, a separate battery for the radio and the motor battery is a 2200, 3 S, lipo. I connected upnthe motors using the Multiplex 3 pin connectors but didn't connect one of them properly and it created a crossover of positive to negative. I had switched on the radio, made sure I had signal to the receiver and then connected the motor lipo. At that point the magic smoke escaped and I quickly disconnected the lipo and removed the wing (very quickly!) to see what had happened. I noticed that I had badly connected the motor battery leads and the "servo" wires to the two ESCs had burned out (kindly acted as a fusible link........). Correcting the motor connection, and expecting the motors not to work ( remember I have a separate receiver battery) I reconnected the lipo and amazingly they did work OK. So, just fit two new links to the ESCs and all will be well. Now to the point of this post. I had used two servo leads with the red wire disconnected to connect the ESCs (remember the receiver battery?) and I noticed that the black wire had burned out completely on one of the ESCs and only the white wire (signal wire?) was connected, but it still worked correctly. Why did it work OK? I thought that it needed both wires to work the ESC. I am confused, can someone please tell me where I am going wrong. Yours, Confused of Nuneaton.

Hi Peter. If both motors are tried separately and work OK then it looks as though the battery cannot supply enough power to drive both motors together (had this problem myself with a Twinstar). If one of the motors does not work correctly with either ESC then it is more likely to be that motor than the wiring being at fault. As Steve says above, the key is to test each motor separately. Cheers, John.

Hi Peter. If both motors are tried separately and work OK then it looks as though the battery cannot supply enough power to drive both motors together (had this problem myself with a Twinstar). If one of the motors does not work correctly with either ESC then it is more likely to be that motor than the wiring being at fault. As Steve says above, the key is to test each motor separately. Cheers, John.

You might also find that adding packing under the front of the tailplane (or the rear of the wing) will help. I had to put 3/16 of balsa under the front of the tailplane on mine to help control the climb. It still out-soars some of the gliders! Hope that helps. Cheers, John.

Excellent video Peter, thanks for posting it. Cheers, John.

OK Simon, thanks for that, duly noted. Cheers, John.