John Wagg

Coming a bit late to this but have you tried a different RX ? I was going to suggest the same a Dickw and see if the servos returned to their "normal" mid position when trying one of the other Rx outputs. I can't see it being a problem with the servos as both have moved the same amount. That is unless there was a mechanical issue due the crash impact. i.e. - Both servo arms jumped the splines ? If none of the above then I would suspect some change in the TX.

Is this what you need :- https://www.justengines.co.uk/shop/engine-spares/two-stroke-spares/a-s-p-two-stroke-spares/a-s-p-s25-spares/?v=79cba1185463 Shows one gasket on the back plate and two on the head.

Not built this but you could draw up your own plan. Use the rib length to work out the comparative fuselage dimensions. Or, with the BB plan, you can always make a built up tail. I did my own similar many years ago (1990) and still going strong. Originally with a clapped out Enya.15, although now with a clapped out OS.20. From 40 seconds.

You don't need telemetry to fine tune. The LED light on the receiver will go out (or change colour) when it looses the Tx' signal. So adjust "fine-tune" one way until the LED goes out. Do the opposite way and then set the midpoint.

A couple of YouTube videos: In comments of the second video it mentions being in D16 mode. EDIT - There is also V1 and V2 firmware besides EU / FCC firmware.

For a pusher prop (although could it be used as a tractor one ?) how about a "Pushy Cat" - Outerzone :- https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=7091 Not sure about your motor/amps/battery size. ?

Are you getting the flashing of the green LED after setting the failsafe ? This same thing happened to me a couple of days ago. Switching the kill switch set the motor going. - I hadn't ticked one of the boxes to "enable" the setting in the "special functions". Double check that everything is set exactly the same on both planes.

Start again - Rebind the receiver. This will cancel any failsafe that has been set. Set the the Tx sticks to the failsafe position (Usually throttle low/off.) Press the failsafe button on the Rx for less than 1 second and the green light should flash. Test to see if it works. NB. To calibrate the ESC you do not need to turn the receiver off. Yes it will be off because the battery to the ESC will not be connected. Disconnect the ESC, move the TX stick to the high. Connect the ESC and it will beep. Move stick to low position and ESC will beep. That should be it.

Not used SLEC but have used Balsa Cabin a few times. Problem is when I only need a sheet or two the P&P costs are more than the balsa. I have seen something at Wickes which caught my interest (polystyrene sheet) but can't find it again atm.🥴 I don't do a lot of building these days - have too many models and not enough time or talent to fly them. But I get the urge now and again to add another one to the fleet. ( don't tell the wife about my urges. ) I really need something that will withstand finger pressure on the wing leading edge box section and I don't know if Depron/polystyrene will do that.? Not sure if anything will beat the properties of balsa. Thanks guys. John

Many years ago I built a couple of Pete Russel's 362 deltas. https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=10014 The first as per plan but the second I used corrugated cardboard ribs. The tubes of the corrugations were vertical with cap strips for longitudinal strength. Still using balsa for the sheeting etc', and it's this that would need substitution. I recently saw an electric 363 delta (362's big brother) and it has got me thinking. 🤔

As a returning modeller, Is there any thing that is a replacement these days instead of balsa sheet for wings etc ? It not so much the cost but poor access to shops that sell it. Perusing the pages of the forum etc', a lot of modellers are using some form of "plastic" block/sheeting. If I wanted to build a wing obviously there would be ribs and balsa sheeted sections. Would the only alternative be something like polystyrene (Depron) but the building technique would have to be different. As say a solid & sanded aerofoil section ? But then what sort of weight would it turn out to be ?

Durafly "Slow Poke", and thankfully it does fly slow. I'm returning after a good many years of not flying so I need something to hone back the skills. Maidened yesterday but initially very twitchy on both ailerons and elevator and had to dial in loads of rates down to 30%. The model initially comes with the linkage connections in outer holes on the servo arms and control horns. I have now altered the servo linkage connections a lot nearer the servo centre. There is no guidance in the instructions as to the amount of control surface movement. Plenty of videos on YouTube showing its capabilities and something to aim for.

Stupidly I wrong connected the receiver and now caput. 😟 Ordered another one but that didn't show the LED so couldn't bind. Sent it back explaining the problem and got all my money refunded, including postage, no problems. Ordered 2 more and both working. It only cost £1 more to order two as it's free postage above £8.

My very first engine. Late 1962 but no number. Just "Made in England". Now this motor, early 1970's does have a number etched on it. W1034'

English instructions relevant to the video:- https://docs.google.com/document/d/1FZn5zCQfHSOZJ7MW-MJwwD4ytUQf2nIjSq9MpYgpkEY/edit Don't forget to recalibrate the gimbals.

Difficult to tell from the "Russian" video but it looks like he is just removing the centering spring of one gimbal to alter it to friction. Obviously he would then have to attach (or unlock) the spring on the opposite stick so that it centres. There will be some sort of friction/ratchet adjustment needed for the throttle stick and the opposite for the elevator stick. Whether you would want to alter the channel arrangement by a software change or just leave the output as is.?

The DHT module was replaced with the XHT module to conform to EU rules..:- https://www.frsky-rc.com/product/xht/ Can't find any of these either except maybe Banggood or Aliexpress. Both units look to have been dropped. There are other manufacturers of TX hacks but I have no info' on them. I understand there is an option to take the innards out of an XJT unit to make it into an XHT module. :- https://forum.alofthobbies.com/index.php?threads/converting-a-xjt-into-an-xht-for-vintage-radios.454/

The Imax is 12v supply and in this case fed from a mains 13.8v regulated supply. The Accucell is mains fed. I've given up for the moment but will have another go when the "little grey cells" have cooled off. As mentioned I can charge the sticks by other means so not an real problem. Thanks for all the suggestions. Cheers John.

Yes same as first sentence. Played a little with a couple of AA cells. One cell acted as above. Switched off and then reset The other cell did accept a charge but required quite a high current ? Up to now I charge the sticks using a dedicated wall charger but it doesn't have any indication that it is charging. I also have a general charger that will also charge any Ni-MH cell and that does have indication. All the cells I have will charge on these two chargers. So no real problem, just something that should work and I'm failing. Cheers

Thank you for all the replies. Polarities all correct, no short circuits, no moving of things. I will try some other standard AA single cells I have and see how they go and let you know. Cheers John.

Ron - yes definitely set to Ni-MHH/Ni-Cad. Manish - Cells are good as far as know. Work O.K. on my glow plug engines. Will check for a short on the lead and the I will try different charge rates. Thankyou for the replies.

I have a couple of these glow plug sticks and the charger shown below. The charger came with the lead shown but I can't get a setting to actually charge either of the sticks. As soon as I press "start" the charger beeps, turns off and then resets itself. Am I doing something wrong or won't the charger work with just one cell ? I also have another charger (Accuscell) and that also acts in the same way. I can get to read the voltage of the sticks on each of the chargers (generally about 1.2v) so the connection and polarity is right. The sticks will charge from a dedicated small mains charger with no problems. It would be nice to be able to fast charge if needed. EDIT :- Not so clear but it does say on the charger - Ni-Cd/Ni-MH 1-15 cells . Any thoughts ? Cheers.

I've used this guy a few times. https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/flyer21uk Contact him and ask if he can do your plan (from Outerzone). Always been fine. I have also recently found a print shop near me and they did a plan for me. Just downloaded the plan onto a USB stick and job done.

D.D you can have a load of fun flying one of the 400mm "park fliers". Only needs a small area to fly in (local park 😀) and will keep your hand in until a comeback.

I have an SC61 but not used for many years. I remember that also not having a good clean low speed idle. I wonder if a different temperature plug would help ? Possibly similar to an "idle bar" ?