John Wagg

Hand launch due to very small wheels when grass is too long, Although not an expensive receiver the XM+ is a genuine frsky receiver meant mainly for small drones but in my case in a small plane. (SBUS required but no space for a normal size Rx.) None of my "cheap" receivers or any of my others in fact have this problem. So what would be a "better" receiver - and don't say one that works. 😜 A bit disappointed to say the least. Unfortunately my Taranis Tx is out of commission so I can't see if that would be O.K. with the XM+. Cheers. John

Recently bought an frsky XM-plus receiver to go in a model but I get serious close range swamping. Need to be about 4 feet away which is no good if I want to hand launch. It is being used with a Radiomaster TX16S transmitter although that shouldn't make a difference really. ?? Works fine in "range test" mode as that is obviously a large reduction in transmit power. In fact range is exceptional in test mode. Anyone any thoughts on a cure ? Personally I can't think of anything except perhaps shortening antenna length to reduce sensitivity or somehow reduce transmitter power. Cheers John

When I need some guidance for setting up a system I quite often try YouTube. There are various videos for AS3X on there so maybe one could help. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=as3x+programming

Thankyou all for the replies. From the options above I'm probably going down the piano wire route as it's simpler to construct round holes for tubes etc. Just need to sort a design and details. Regards John.

Thanks for replies Guys. Frank, what do you use for tubing with the piano wire ?

Looking to build a vintage plane which has a dihedral wing. What I want to do is have it split in the middle for ease of transport but secure enough for flight. My last project had a wide flat centre section so was easy to do with tubes & rods. This model though has virtually no flat middle section so is a bit more complex. My own thought is a rectangular ply box in each wing with a ply spar joiner. Two 'spars' needed, one for strength and another for wing alignment. I would expect the main spar to have to go into the wings a little bit so as to spread the load and stop the wing folding. Maybe not, as the wing will be either rubber banded or using wing bolts.?? Another thought would be piano wire in tubes but not sure I could get a sharp neat 'V' in the middle. I want the split to be in the middle. Not a separate centre box with each wing plugged in. Any suggestions please or ideas for a neat strong system ? For reference the model is a TD Coupe, 64" span and has a 4 inch dihedral under each tip. Ribs are 1.1/4" deep :- https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=5367 Thanks' John

Yes the propeller acts on the air but it has to get the whole plane to move so that the air across the wings will give lift for take-off. Air moved just by the propeller will not give lift.

What if it's a 'driven' belt and increases in speed to keep the plane at a stand-still ?

I've got a 12v/9A battery in my field box but it is a bit heavy when also loaded with 1/2 gallon of fuel. (12 stone weakling!) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231568304738?var=530806014137 Because of the weight I would certainly consider a 4s Lipo now. But I've gone for a manual fuel pump :- https://www.rapidrcmodels.com/jp-deluxe-hand-fuel-pump-5183-p.asp I've had an electric pump but it did give problems now and again. and a 1 x cell Ni-mh plug - similar to:- https://www.rapidrcmodels.com/glo-start-clip-s-2400mah-nimh--charger-3pin-5793-p.asp The drawback to these is if the plug is hidden. I have other connectors which run of the panel on my box. P.S. I run my starters off the 12v battery but again I would consider a LiPo on the starter. I've seen 2 version. 1 - LiPo fixed/taped to the starter. 2 - The LiPo seoerate from the starter but connected via the starter cable using clips.

As Don - I start tacking down on the low point of the under camber. Assuming a flat longitudinal surface, I do the inner and outer ribs first and then tack the middle of the other ribs in between. Trying to keep the covering reasonably taut, I then do each rib ironing from the middle to the front, or back, making sure that each rib is stuck properly. I have never used any "glue" preparation but it won't do any harm if you want too.

Youtube video.

Where practical I push the bare aerial ends through little holes to the outside. (at an angle to each other.) Concerning the shielded part of the wires, are they not coaxial sheathed like TV aerial cable.?

Not the specific plan you're asking for but there is a plan on Aerofred. https://aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=96049&mode=search#plan

What we need is a "how to". I can imagine pressing out the old pin but fitting a new one would be critical. I assume that heat and cold would be utilised?

If you do I would be interested in the outcome.

I presume that the pin has snapped off ? Mine pin snapped off due to miss-handling but I was fortunate to purchase the last one from Just Engines. I believe the pin is pressed in so it might be possible to press out the old bit and fit in a new one. Problem is finding someone to do it. ?

Google company unveils drone delivery-network ambition :- https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-64891005 video -

Thanks for the link. 👍

So do the jets just drive the prop' or do they assist as well? If the jets are propulsion on their own then dump the prop'. ?

Not really a hoarder more of it may come in use one day. Engine on the left is the very first engine I bought in 1962 and used in a KK Phantom Mite control line. Engine on the right is the 2nd engine I bought in 1972 and used in a Dave Highs "Week-Ender" single channel. !0 years in between due to wine, women and song. Well I was a teenager in the 60's. Quite a few motors since then and some still survive.

Nostalgia. 😄 Monterey 1971. (This my first RC glider along with a Dave Hughs "Soacerer (1969). I started slope soaring in the mid-1970's and a couple of friends recommended the Monterey. Very elegant & and will fly on a sniff of lift. This is actually my second version re-furbished with a repaired tail and scraps of Solarfilm. So probably this one late 70's. I still have the wings from my first one hung up in the garage but doubt in their integrity ? https://aerofred.com/details.php?image_id=96563&mode=search

This model I wouldn't be painting. Generally I would have just covered it with a Solar film type covering. Possibly similar to the wings. On the other hand I have hand painted direct on to a wood fuselage but it had quite thick (1/4") sides. But this is my personal preference. 🙂

Which model ?

Have you done wifi "forget" and then re-connect ? ( In settings - network/internet. ) You will need your router password.