Jesus Cardin

It is going very pretty! I also own a HMM model, partly built but even older (circa 1985): the Ta-152H. As you I probably will convert it to electric and my idea is to finish it during this summer. Good luck with your Moonraker.

Graham, what are those dark shades on the wing sheeting? I am following your thread with great interest!

63" Tempest In fact I have been considering for some time to go for a "simplified" Brian Taylor Tempest as Sarik Hobbies have available cowl, canopy and spinner! I will follow this post with great interest.

First thing I dropped off from a glider, while making loops was......the receiver battery! The canopy, "secured" with tape, opened to one side and the battery fell off free. Of course, the glider continued looping from 40-50 meters to the ground but due to a great luck and that ground was soaked with rain water, it went straight into the ground like a javelin suffering NO damage at all. Even the battery was found a few meters from the glider making a perfect female form on the soft ground. We only needed connecting the battery and double and triple securing the canopy and we went up again with the high start! From then on -it was about nearly 40 years ago- I have only dropped toy parachutists and candy for children!

All Li-Po balance chargers I know do not overcharge the lower volt cell but "brake" those which go ahead. As far as I know and understand Li-Po chargers these put an electronic resistence to the higher voltage cells till those with lower ones cachts up. Anyway the problem suffered certainly seems to be from a bad contact on the balance line.

I am afraid "tigerman" wishes too many and contrary things: to find a Black Horse ARF model, a brand wiped out of the market due to their prices .....and finding it cheap!. Just one request is hard to meet, but both are simply impossible,

Posted by cymaz on 31/05/2020 11:35:39: Ebay ....just for the pilot "cymaz" thank you very much for the link! I have won the bid but not with an interest for the pilot but for the plans and canopy and cowl as they are for Duncan Hutson Jurca Sirocco, something I have been looking for more than a year. Best Regards and keep safe and healthy!

No, Black Horse is still alive and producing kits but they increased prices some 3-4 years ago after revising all their models to electric power with great top access cover and detachable wings and they were defeated by "brother" firms like Phoenix Models and, mainly, Seagull Models. Local hobby shops not stocking is a different matter and a problem all over Europe -and perhaps the entire world-, as as distributors keep the stocks and nowadays shipping is so fast, why they should stock if the model may be received just the next day or even ask the distributor to send it direct to the customer?

Your clubmate may also rely on any model shop which offers Sullivan products, as they still produce control line accessories (handle, cables,....)

Mark does not have to worry about black wire corrosion at least at the transmitter side, as the battery connects direct to the 14MZ main board and there are no cables inside. Of course the battery lead may be affected, but not inside the transmitter.

When I see that type of flying control, I can´t avoid thinking of a massive flutter on the tail!

Well, both fopr JBA and NGH engines there are reports of misfiring and engines quitting due to plug cap bad contact and/or disconnecting from vibration (they are quarter of a turn fixing type). The spring just add a bit of tension and reduces the risk of the cap turning while flying.

I also had a look when Jeffrey posted his request and found nothing nor at Outerzone nor at Sarik Hobbies searching for Boddington as designer.

"Rocker", be careful when selecting the charge connector as T10J needs the thinner of the 3 types available for Futaba radios (T14SG uses the medium one).

That progress sweetly!

In UK, Futaba distribution and repair service is from Ripmax. Good luck with the repair and keep safe.

Gary, very, vey interested! I always like learning from others members´ BT building experiences, regarless if they go for competition or sport finishes. Start the thread and keep safe!

David, first of all welcome to this forum and I wish you have a grateful return to the hobby! Regarding your questions: 1.- I would recommend you to go for a new equipment if you want to go flying safe and soon. Anyway you should keep the old system as if in the future you would like to properly fly vintage models. tackling with the old system will require knowledge, experience, time and money that probably you should better use getting the new 2.4ghz system and building your new model plane. 2.-Sure they will work but again you will need buying plug converters or -as I prefer- to cut the servo cables and solder new ones with moderns connectors. Again work and expense for 35 plus years old servos that may fail at any moment. Today you may purchase smaller and reliable servos very cheap so, again, I will not bother with the old servos but get some new ones. 3.- Really modern R/C systems do not generally use dry cells but Ni-MH, Li-Fe and Li-Po rechargeable batteries. Only simpler and economical radios like the Futaba T6L Sport are so designed and unfortunately not, it is not easy to convert that transmitter to rechargeable batteries (if I remember correctly it even does not include a charging jack!). On the positive and due to the relatively low RF power of modern radios and as the T6L does not incorporate a screen, a set of 4 good alkaline dry cells will give you service for a total of nearly 5-6 hours of continue use. Regarding the receiver it just require a battery of any kind up to 8,4V (please, check servos voltage tolerance) connected through a good quality switch and you are done! Sincerely hope these lines are of help for your decision and, please, take care and keep healthy.

Mike, I think Skippers simply double posted the same question with 2 different titles.

Hi Skippers. First of all your difficulties are not from converting from 35Mhz to 2.4Ghz, but from switching from a vintage radio system without any kind of model memories to a modern one with a complete one plus moderate ample programming capabilities. It is out of reach for me to give you a step by step description but I may well pass some basic information that sure will help you a lot understanding the manual and your new radio. 1.- Futaba radios have a model memory system based on a series of preprogrammed models (numbered Model 1, Model 2, Model 3,....) with factory default values. 2.- When you first switch on the radio it is selected Model 1 and this should be already paired (linked) with the included receiver. 3.- You may change the model name from Model 1 to other one you may prefer for a better and easier association with the model you are going to use. 4.- If you wish (although I do no foresee any need if you have only one model) you may select on the model select menu any other model from Model 2 to the last one of the memory list. 5.- Al models on the model memory have the same factory default programming values and modulation selection. For your T6K all models should be in T-FHSS modulation BUT I am unable to confirm they, aside Model 1, will be already linked to the receiver but is easy to confirm checking the servo response AS WELL as confirming that the transmitter, at least, receives the receiver battery voltage. If you do not get both, link is wrong and you MUST follow linking instructions and proceed linking both again! My general procedure for a new model is as follow: A) Select the model you wish (Model 3 if you already are using Model 1 and Model 2) and change name to that of the model (P.Cub, for example for a Piper Cub) B) Go to the System menu and select that of the receiver you are going to use (T-FHSS or S-FHSS) and proceed to link Transmitter to receiver (note that procedures are different for each system!) and check you have control (and telemetry for T-FHSS). C) Now go to the Reverse menu and make every control moves on the correct direction: right aileron stick produces right aileron movement, up elevator stick produces up elevator movement and so on. D) Then go to End Point menu and be sure no servo nor control surface becomes forced at full stick movement. E) Finally for a elemental basic setting use the D/R or ATV function (not completely sure how it is called in the T6K) for getting the control throws suggested on the model instructions manual or from your own experience and even program a switchable larger o shorter throw if you do not totally agree with those from the manual. There are a lot more of functions that greatly help on making a finer adjustment of your plane or getting more control options so you may fine tune the model flight Characteristics (subtrim exponential, differential, flapperons,....) but following the basic guide above you may start programming and flying your model and then continue learning those sophistications and even all related to telemetry sensors and related data and alarms. Ah!, and do not worry about all the work you may do on any given model as, when you select a new one, all your programming and the model trims are saved to the radio memory and ready for when in the future you decide flying it again and select it back from the model memory list! Keep safe and Best Regards.

Thomas, welcome to the RCM&E forum site! I think I may well give you a helping hand as, although I didn't build any Robbe "Do It" I was involved in the production of the model. Just a brief note about the "Do It" history: It was designed in the UK by Ripmax designers for Robbe in 1991 and then the model was produced in Spain under the Robbe brand since 1991 till 1995. Those models got to the USA as Pica has a close relation with the Spanish firm Modelhob for which I worked them and which manufactured the complete "Do It" production. From this relationship Pica managed Robbe distribution for some years in the USA and so a few "Do It" kits made the way there. Regarding your question, I will follow the electric motor set up recommended for a similar model, the Cougar 2000 V2 from Weston UK. They recommend on the manual (link below) 2 different set ups, one for a 4S Li-Po and the other for a 3S one. I will recommend for a lighter airframe the 3S Li-Po setup although really both use same motor and ESC and only differ on battery and propeller. For me the 3S propeller is a too coarse pitch one and I will go for a finer propeller if you want to do 3D aerobatics, but as the Cougar 2000 has been a very popular model in Europe during last years I will start flying with the recomended APC 14x7" and change later after gaining some flying experience if you wish. http://westonuk.co.uk/pdfs/cougar-instructions-updated.pdf Hope to have been of help to you.

Jimmy, the area code adapts details when you software update your T14SG transmitter. So, being America code even if it is updated to last software version your controller is not working on "Listen Before Talk" (LBT) protocol as is mandatory today both in Europe and UK. For changing the area code from "America" to "Europe" you will mandatory have to reel on an official Futaba service as it is performed from a special service software, so I think you should contact Ripmax and ask if the may give you such service.

If it is not fast curing epoxy (30 minutes, 2-Tons, 2 hours and 24 hours) you may well heat it for pouring. You may also use methanol mixed with epoxy but, really this will not give you a thinned epoxy but a suspension of epoxy on alcohol which is not very convenient as you have no control on epoxy distribution and also will degrade some of the epoxy characteristics.

Alex, as an aside note, is your father Ian Peacock? Thanks

For those interested, in short time Futaba will introduce 2 new standar size servos to replace some of their popular and cheap servos: - Futaba S-U300 to replace S148/S3003/S3005 - Futaba S-U301 to replace S3001/S3151/S3073HV These two new servos will be cheap standar size plastic gear servos but with full S.BUS capability. This is you will be able to program chanel, angle, speed, reverse movement and a lot of other parameters individually, instead than from the transmitter software. Of course advantages should be only for Futaba users; others or if you just do not want to tackle with new technology may use the servos as normal, no digital servos, as you take them out of the box. Edited By Jesus Cardin on 11/03/2020 08:11:47