Eric Robson

Lam film is the thing to save you from bankruptcy.??

Hi Paul, mine balanced 10mm forward of the position shown on the plan. Sorry if you were deprived of a plan 90mm from the centre leading edge of the wing , any further back and I would have had to put some weight in the tail. Once trimmed it flew on rails very happy with it. I see on yours you had the magnets for the cowl in a different position, the cowl is very tight so if it is not pressure I may use velcro as I have done with the radiator intake and that stayed firmly in place even after sliding along the grass.

Hi Geoff, I did not use the flaps as I did not have a long enough flite to see what would happen when deployed. by the time I had it trimmed and flying straight and level I wanted to check the battery as I am pulling a lot more juice than a Predator motor, as it happens I was down to 24%. Another thing was the hatch flew off not long after take off so no inverted flight. I had a word with Richard and he suggested air pressure as the hatch was a tight fit , I will look into that after I have repaired the U/C mount. Jonathan I think the screws would be better 6mm longer than the ones supplied.

Hi all, mine had its maiden flight yesterday, a little hairy at first but once trimmed it was fine, slightly nose heavy but it took off ok and did not nose over. However on landing it floated on and as our club strip is inclined I had to land downhill due to the wind direction. to get it to touch down I gave a touch of down elevator it did not hit the ground too hard but it pulled the retracts out both sides. I thought at first it was not too bad but the main plate ply had split as the retaining screws only just went half way in to the main plate. I feel if the screws had been longer I would have been ok. I have made some ply horse shoes and glued them to the inside of the main plates and then I will get some longer screws to go right through. Hopefully this will cure the problem , I do not see it as an issue if you have a flat field or tarmac to land on as it floated down level without a hint of tip stall, Can't wait to fly it again but we must have upset the weather gods as the forecast for next week is not good. Eric.

I think it was a fixed nose, and when it first come on the market std. size servos were the norm. Mine flew great with an Enya 35 till a big aerobatic model coming out of a loop sliced it in two.

I had 5 flights with the Seafury this morning, flew very well but I think the motor is a little tired so I will fit a more powerful motor. there was quite a strong wind. After lunch I went back wit the Acrowot but every body was wrapping up as the wind gusts were stronger, Hope tomorrow is better.

Looking good Tim, I have never seen the fairings stitched on, I will admit to struggling with them to get a good top to bottom fit. I see all the pilots anxiously looking out the window for good weather now that lockdown has eased.

I think it would be better to use it as a sinker for the boat and the motor.

My eyes must be getting worse, Why do they put the Y next to the T? I did have a problem with wasps chewing the balsa away to make a nest in my Dennis Bryant Bulldog.

It may be worth getting a rechargeable battery for the TX. I have a F6K set and Leeds model shop recommended a 4 cell Overlander eneloop 2000 battery and it seems to last for ever between charges. I also have a Spektrum TX which was originally for dry cell but they did not last very long so now that has a 7.2 lipo that I bought from 4Max.

I think it goes back to the early days of RC and metal carb. levers, when the metal to metal interfered with the signal. Most carbs now have a plastic lever, I have always used a piano wire throttle control where I have been able to get a straight run and never had ant problems with it.

Google translates Your mileage may vary.

Are you going with the Saito Danny? because the throttle position will be different if you go for the Laser.

No flaps on mine and it fly's great, mind you the wind where I fly is the flaps, it is high up and very rarely calm. chasing scale perfection in a sport scale aeroplane will drive you mad because it can't be achieved. The inner flaps are angled up to the centre on the real thing as there is a slight gull wing on the full size and the dihedral starts away from the centre but it is not apparent on the Warbirds model. Best thing is to build it as designed and follow Richards and Pauls advice on finishing and you will have a good flying replica of a Spitfire.

That is the difference between you and me Richard mine are junk when they are made. Mainly in my eyes, that is the thing with sport scale it does not have to be right to look good, liberties are taken for better performance. Far better to have something that looks like the real thing in the air that flies good than a perfect scale model that flies like a man hole cover on a clothes line.

Probably because they have more common sense than the CAA and they don't change the registration once it has been issued.

Some people have all the luck. Lovely engine the Laser, you may have to lower the tank or put a chicken hopper in as the Laser carb is lower than the Saito. They tick over like a watch and are a lot less messy than other engines as they take a lower oil content in the fuel. John at Laser is always on hand to help out with problems so you have no worries. Pull pull is a Thought for the Tempest, not a lot of room at the tail end but the wires just need guides. The wires could be attached to the rudder before it is fitted then pulled taught at the servo end. Cheers Eric.

As long as you keep on rolling along. I have covered wings like that with solar film and they have been OK I was banned from doping aeroplanes when we lived in a terraced house with out a garden and shed. As with doping beware of wing warps.

I too don't like snakes Danny, that is a very neat push/ pull rod . Is it 3/16 spruce? On the Tempest the plan calls for a snake for the rudder which has a tight S curve to exit in line with the tail plane centre in a fairing . it would be difficult to connect up unless the fairing is built around it, so as it is not going to be a competition model I will exit lower down and use a rigid rod. Enjoying you build so far. Cheers Eric.

A s an alternative to Solar film for covering

Lam film arrived this morning in the North East. thanks Ron. Now to get that big biplane out of the loft.

The Flair scouts would also qualify for warbirds, but how many would sell? It seems the thing now to itemise something as vintage and rare and people will pay silly money for it when in the first time around they were not that good anyway. it's like nostalgia with old cars they were crude and unreliable compared to the later models but carry many fond memories. Danny I agree with what you say about instructions, I bought a Complete a Pac kit at a swap meet and there was a lot of small parts cut and numbered but the numbers were not on the plan I built it because I knew how to as I had built some of theirs before just from the plan . A novice would have great difficulty with it. Eric.

Previous page, Barry Manilow?

Reminds me of a story of a Whitley bomber that was shot up during the war the pilot gave the order to bale out but the intercom to the tail gunner was damaged. The plane flew on in circles and landed on some rough ground. The gunner went round to the front to play hell with the pilot for such a bad landing and was shocked to find he was alone.

The complaints of people buying the RCME are that the content has gone down since lockdown as there has been no shows. I think it would be a good thing for Paul's excellent builds of your Warbird Replica kits to feature in the magazine. That way it would provide content and also let the general population of modellers that do not subscribe to the forum find out about the Warbird kits. Eric r.