Eric Robson

Thanks Jonathan, I do have an advantage I am retired and live alone as my wife has passed on. And I get more enjoyment building than watching TV I can also mess up the dining room instead of facing a cold shed in the winter. I painted the cowl with black etch primer as the register lines were difficult to see on the clear resin moulding. At this point it weighs just on 4lb with the servos and tail feathers, although there is a lot of filling with block balsa or laminated balsa for the wing and tail fillets. The prototype weighed 9 1/2lb with a 61 2 stroke engine and 3/4lb of lead up front. I am aiming for 8lb total.

Hi Danny, I did that with my B.Taylor Warhawk and in 15 years never had to remove it till the wings folded. As you see in the out of focus picture the wing tip is very thin so I tried to keep it as strong as possible. Cheers Eric.

Hi Danny, I am sure the standard of your building will take an IC engine many models have been flown for years on this power. The behaviour of an IC engine is down to the operator, good installation, good tank position, in line filters, correct fuel, and once in and set up don't fiddle about with the settings, You will love the sound of the 4 stroke engine, the cleaning is worth the benefits of longer flight times and being able to fly all day without charging batteries. Eric.

Folded will be fine for me Ron, it ends up being ironed out. Rolls are meant for machine dispensing.

The fin is that of a Miles Magister, part 36 looks like a Magister elevator, the fuselage formers and wing tips also Magister. the Miles Hawk speed 6 has two piece wings Magister wings no centre section but the fin is different. Bowman's Magister had a 3 piece wing so it could be part of a Magister kit with the centre section missing which would put it up to the 85" span.

These things are sent to try us, can anyone tell me why?

I Know that feeling and still remember it.

Chiming Ron, 20mts for me please I have an 86" span biplane to cover + others.

Thanks Danny and Ron, I did rub the film down with some 600 wet or dry, there was a few fine wrinkles which I managed to eliminate. it looked worse than it was before putting the primer on there was a few little marks on the surface of the wood finger nails etc but they did not show after priming.

Getting the ailerons right took longer than I thought, in between gardening and getting planes ready for flying. They pivot on a rod through brass bushes that anchors in the tip , the first side had to be taken apart as I built it from the underside and when I turned it over it was slightly below the shroud. It would have been easier if it had been straight and not curved at the end. I covered the ailerons with laminating film and primed them as it will be impossible to cover them in situ. I will be happy if I can get the rest of the plane as good I was going to use brown paper but following Ron's tips I will try the rest of the plane with film.

I see this has come back on E bay ,starting at £140

Last week I ordered some bolts etc. from Model fixings at 11 30 am they were delivered next day at 10am. great service.

He found the underside was covered in clear film.

My first model was the Mercury Galahad under powered with an OS 10 Sanwa mini 2 control. It flew well until I launched it into a strong breeze and went into a great loop. It did not have enough elevator to pull out and it was written off .

Looking at the price of the FMS kits on the heading I think the price of foam has gone up in China or they are jumping on the bandwagon.

Me too, .it has a fast grab time. Once built a club 20 model with Gorilla glue didn't clamp it and had to put a 40 in it.

Back on the Tempest now that spring has turned to winter again, retracts sorted out and flaps set up and working. I don't know if there is any weight saving over the original which only used 2 servo's for the flaps and ailerons but a lot of rod and bell cranks, Mine has 6 servos in 4micro and 2 mini . I just need to tidy the wiring make the ailerons and sheet the remainder of the underside The picture turning went well ,Thanks Ron. Cheers Eric.

My work is very Victorian in that case, trouble is mine are not deliberate

Once the covering is on no one will know. Looks good to me

Hi Alan, sorry to prolong the thread hijack , is LX the 70" Hutson Lizzie? it looks bigger than that and as is for a 40- 52 fs it must be a small petrol engine. It has been on my wish list for a long time.

I think Alan is a Westland fan as there is also a Lysander in the same picture.

Hi Chris, this is my set up the battery plugs into the inverter, I have on some used a switch mainly on a tender loco. I have fitted the same small connectors to all my loco's so that I can take the whole system out and put it in another loco, The controller has a 12 loco capacity. I have not used it much over the last two years as I have gone back to model aeroplanes. Apart from the loft layout I have a track in the garden, as the loco's have such a small current consumption I have not checked how long they last between charges . but the chap who put me onto the system does exhibitions and with an LNER tram loco it will run most of the day pulling 20 trucks on one charge. When I do go up to the loft I generally run something for about an hour the leave it for a few days and there is still plenty of charge in the battery. I build my own loco's from kits or scratch, this one is scratch built in nickel silver, only items bought were the wheels , chimney , dome and handrail knobs. Cheers Eric.

I soaked the balsa for the flaps and taped it around a 20mm diam floor mop handle and left it overnight I did not have to dampen it again.

I won't be on the forum for a while, I ate a daffodil bulb I thought it was an onion. I have to go into hospital, the doctor said I will come out in the spring.

Yes Jon, you do need to trim it .If you look at the tip end and follow the profile you will see where the top sheet should end, take an off cut f 1/16" balsa about 3mm wide hold it on the edge of the top sheet and you will see approx. how much to trim off.