David Davis 2

That's pretty reasonable. I've just paid 220€ (£188) for the smaller version, new in box without servos.

I have owned a Spektrum DX9 for nine years. I accidentally dropped it onto our tarmac runway yesterday breaking the carrying handle and aerial cover. I've managed to glue the handle and cover back into place but the transmitter is starting to look a bit scruffy now so perhaps I ought to think in terms of replacing it. Most of my models are simple four channel sports jobs plus a few vintage models so I doubt that I'll ever use sixteen channels however, I was given an electric foamie B17 which has flaps, retracts and an functioning bomb bay so the extra channels will come in handy for that once I get round to assembling it. I'm a bit of a computer phobe but I've watched the programming of RadioMaster transmitters on YouTube and it doesn't seem all that daunting. However, I have no idea of the meaning of the technical language such as: Transmitter module: Option 1: Internal 4-in-1 multi-protocol module (CC2500 CYRF6936 A7105 NRF2401)ï¼' Option 2: Internal ELRS (SX1280). What does this all mean? Certainly the TX16s Mark II looks excellent value for money compared to Spektrum transmitters. Is there anything I should be aware of before buying this transmitter? Would a FrSky transmitter be a better option?

I'm by no means an electric flight enthusiast much preferring the sound of a well-tuned i/c engine but I have built several electric powered models and never had an ESC fail on me. If four out of six of your speed controllers have failed, I'd get on to the supplier and ask for replacements. Trades Descriptions Act etc. I am assuming of course, that these speed controllers are rated as being suitable for the amount of current which your motor/propeller/LiPo combination is capable of drawing.

Welcome back Jonathan. Which model do you intend to build?

Welcome to the forum Stubbsy. I usually find videos of models in the air quite boring unless my models are involved so nearly didn't open the link to your video. However, it's a brilliant video and musical sound track. It's quite made my day and I haven't even had breakfast yet!

I agree with the advice proffered above, cover the model in doculam first then apply tissue over the top. This will produce a covering which will be very hard to puncture. As for model size, once I get a few repairs and "projects" out of the way, I'm thinking of building a Junior 60 and covering that in film and coloured tissue. The Junior 60 was my first successful r/c model so I have a sentimental attachment to the design. It has a 63" wingspan.

Morning Toto! There really isn't any mystery about two-stroke glow engines. I believe that you own a Force engine. These have two needles opposite one another which regulate the fuel supply. The low speed needle controls the low to mid-speed running of the engine and is encased within the carburetter. The high speed needle is raked backwards and controls the mid to high speed running. It has a knurled end to make adjustment by hand easier. Having done a quick search on-line I've found out that Force engines are ABC engines, Aluminium piston, Brass cylinder, Chrome plated. So are most modern two stroke engines. To run it in: Open the main needle valve 3-4 turns from fully closed. It's probably best to leave the slow running needle at the factory setting but if it has been fiddled with, close it it completely, attach a clean piece of fuel tubing to the carburetter, open the throttle 20% and open the needle anti clockwise so that you can just blow through it. Fit the engine securely to a test stand. Fit a propeller which the engine is easily capable of turning, something like a 10 x 6. Fit a glow plug which is appropriate for the engine, an OS 8 or Enya 3 will be fine. Use a fuel containing 15-20% synthetic oil and 5% nitro. Place a finger over the air intake of the carburetter draw up fuel into the engine, turn the propeller backwards against compression, attach a glow igniter apply the starter motor and the engine should start. LET IT WARM UP! Then adjust the main needle to maximum revs at wide open throttle. Keeping the throttle wide open unscrew the main needle so that the engine is running slightly rich. Run two tank fulls of fuel through it. Now re-adjust the main needle for maximum rpm then check the slow-speed running adjusting the needle valve as necessary. DO NOT EXPECT A VERY LOW TICK-OVER AND INSTANTANEOUS THROTTLE RESPONSE AT THIS STAGE. Put the engine in a model and fly it. After half a dozen long flights the engine will be fully run in and you may make your final adjustments of both needles.

I used to import the Telemaster range into Europe. I doubt that you'll have any difficulty with orientation whichever colour scheme you choose. The Senior Telemaster is such a big slow-flying aeroplane. Mine features the original Karl Heinz Denzin multi-spar wing with inset, so-called, "Barn Door" ailerons rather than the strip ailerons of the Joe Bridi wing which was adopted by the manufacturers once production had shifted to America. Mine is powered by a Thunder Tigre 91 FS.

In a post on 8th May 2023, Greyhead states that his SE5a is a 18% of the full size aircraft. Your Belair version will be a little larger.

Oh no! The tree surgeon simply shinned up the tree and lowered the model down on a rope. Cost me a fiver! It was hardly damaged which is more than I can say for that ARTF Acro Wot I landed in a tree a few weeks ago!

I had a similar experience while bringing a Detroit Custom Cruiser in to land guided by a Sanwa Conguest radio. I was reaching for the throttle trim and succeeded in switching off the transmitter. The model went berserk and landed in a tree. I had to hire a tree surgeon to retrieve it!

There were several Chinese engines available during the Nineties which all seemed to be based on OS engines. I can recall such makes as Royal, Bluebird, GWS and Mutunuc. I never bought one myself but except for a Bluebird 40 which a clubmate installed in my old Radio Queen, they seemed alright.

I was planning on going flying yesterday afternoon but every year in my village the mairie organises a Christmas dinner for the over-seventies. I was able to walk to and from the restaurant but after several glasses of Cotes du Rhone were forced on me I considered it prudent not to drive to the flying field and as I already have two models to repair, I bottled out of flying too!

It wasn't finished when the picture was taken, note the unconnected closed loop cable to the rudder. I'll have to check whether the elevator lines up. It flies ok, I was even filmed flying it but I can't find the video at the moment. We've got a perfectionist in our club too.

Welcome to the forum Mike.

To use an over-used expression, "It's not rocket science." If you have compression. If you have a good glow plug of the correct heat range. If you have the right sort of fuel for the engine. If the carburettor is not blocked If your propeller size is within the limits set by the engine's manufacturer... then your engine should run.

It must have been over sixty years ago when I was given an ED single channel transmitter, a biscuit box which stood on the floor and transmitted through a tank aerial and a battered Mercury Monocoupe. I built a MacGregor receiver for it and was given an escapement. It had a range of about of about six feet but my soldering wasn't very good in those days! The sex'n'drugs'n'rock'n'roll years then intervened but three decades later I restored the model and covered it in silver Solartex. Powered by a PAW 19 and guided now by a Sanwa Conquest radio, it looked very smart. It survived one flight in my inexperienced hands. One of the wings parted company in the air! I burned the wreckage. I still have the plan and it's a handsome model so you never know.

Either of those would be an excellent choice. The WOT 4 goes where you put it and the Boomerang is my favourite ARTF trainer mainly because it flies well in a wind due to its semi symmetrical aerofoil. A good 46 two stroke would fly either very well.

Picture of my old Flair Hooligan. The white stripe on the top of the wing showed up well during aerobatics. The underside was finished in flourescent red. I regret selling this model and the Radio Queen pictured with it.

You could sort out a pair of ailerons surely?

The weather forecast predicts a temperature of only 1C today so I don't think I'll bother going flying. I need to saw up some logs! It's forecast to reach 6C tomorrow. We have a club meeting in the morning. I might have a go afterwards.

Me too!

DB Sport & Scale will probably be able to help as they are still producing the kit. https://www.dbsportandscale.com/mascot-6506-p.asp. I was given an almost complete DB Sport & Scale Auster several years ago minus the wing struts. I emailed the company and they provided the components for a small fee. I must get round to finishing that model some day...

I always use six bands too but why was I advised, all those years ago, to attach the bands to the front dowel first, then stretch them over the wing to the rear dowel, in other words to fit them front to back rather than the other way around? PS. It was cold here too yesterday. I wore my NCB overalls.

At last some good news to report on Frans' Radio Queen. Having replaced the Pro-Tronik 2830/660 with an AXI 2820/10, because I thought that the model was over-powered and that was all that I had sculling about, having fitted a 12 x 6 prop and a huge 3S LiPo, we then tested the model's centre of gravity which turned out to be nose heavy. Nevertheless I flew it last Wednesday. The Axi provided plenty of power but not so much as to make the flight unpleasant. However, I found that the rudder was not very effective and the model frequently floundered about the sky with me using full rudder to get it to turn. Now the rudder on the Radio Queen is pretty small but my old i/c powered Radio Queen, pictured below with my much younger self, did not display this characteristic. Having landed the model we fitted a 2200 3S LiPo in order to bring the balance point further to the rear. This resulted in improved performance but I was not happy with the model's turning characteristics nor with the plastic clevises on the rudder's closed loop. Yesterday morning we retired to my workshop where we were able to fit metal clevises. We weighed the model and tested the motor's power. We tried a variety of props and most of them produced just over 400 watts. On my old fashioned kitchen scales the model weighed about 5lbs or 2.2kgs so we were getting 80 watts per lb or 177 watts per kg if my arithmetic is correct. There remained the problem of the rudder response. The cables were on the furthest hole of the servo output arm and on the second hole of the rudder horns so not much scope for adjustment there. Thoughts of building a bigger rudder were dispelled when I realised that it was 2023 and not 1973! I could adjust the rudder throw by increasing the travel of the servo on the transmitter, a Spektrum DX9. Having adjusted the travel from 100% to 150% we retired to the flying field. The model was transformed! It took off fairly quickly and climbed well but throttling back produced a model which cruised about the sky and was very pleasant to fly. Just like my old i/c powered version. After five minutes I bought it into land out of respect for the small LiPo. We will try a 3300 LiPo placed further back in order to get longer flight times.