Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 2, 2011 Author Share Posted February 2, 2011 Instead of working I spent the day in bed – and was not in the mood to do anything on my project. So I made just the pictures of the air valve servo and the attached limit switch which I will use for the landing light (retracts out=light on) These switches are very cheap, can handle normally a few amps and have a guaranteed lifetime of 100.000 plus switch cycles. The one I use handles 3A, I just need 300mA. And it weighs about 1 gram... The first picture shows how the servo is installed which moves the piston valve and the second shows the switch, beeing operated by the piston of the valve. (switch is black and in the middle of the picturre) Slowly I should think also about a design, I looked at my foil collection –white, 2 types of red, rose grey, tukquoise, blue and dark blue. Some of it is reserved for my Extra (white red and blue) but I will not need all of the material. Blue for instance I have 2m spare and white I always buy in larger quantities.I think I go for a white base colour with red and dark blue blue lines (so I can get rid of the small piece of corsair blue I have since years….) as on the prototype with the registration number G-EHMJEdited By Vecchio Austriaco on 02/02/2011 13:05:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 I had a little bit enough from fiddling on the fuselage so I decided to cover the wings. To do so I had to form the middle bottom piece but this was a straight forward job. I made it from solid 6mm balsa – shaped into its final form by a plainer. May be there are lighter solutions – but this was easy and fast. Covering was straight forward, and of course I had to cut the last large part for the wing 3 times – too small, mirror image, fit…. I used Oracover – not only because I have it at home – I have also some white Solartex which would have been less heavy, but all the coloured material I have and which I would like to use later to apply the design, is Oracover. So if the base material has a lower melting point trouble is on the way… I decided to make the servo hatch accessible, you never know. It is practical invisible – only the screws disturb a little. Finally I had to go back to the fuselage and to fiddling…First I made the remaining lights, using the same technology as on the wingtips – but now with a different shape. The lights on the fuselage are: red blinking light on top and bottom of fuselage and a white position light at the end of the fuselage. More fiddling: the front wheel steering. A servo was found in the bits and pieces box, and I prepared a few M2 screws by flattening one end and drilling the whole for the pull-pull wire. I used the inner tube of a Bowden for guidance and of we go. As mentioned in another thread I thought I don’t need any springs as the wheel will centre automatically. Yes it does, but the trouble was on the other end. As the steel rope has certain stiffness it pushes back against the servo – and the clevises snap into the middle – blocking the space for the wheel. After some headscratching I had an idea – a light spring telling the clevises to move outside and not inside. You see the wire fixed on the servo arm, this is a 0.4mm spring wire which works as it should. Before closing the planking and covering also the fuselage I have to position everything nicely. (now the access is much better than after the planking). This will be the kind of plane which you assemble once and never disassemble until necessary as there are 6 connections to be made (position lights, strobe lights, landing lights, aileron, flaps and retracts air tube). But as it has only 1m wingspan it fits easily into my car even when it is assembled. Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 07/02/2011 09:03:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 Great ideas there VA - she is looking good !Incidentally, you mention all the various plugging in of lights etc - are you aware of ASHLOK connectors - I use them all the time for secure plugging of multiway ( up to 12 connectors ) in one easy step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 7, 2011 Author Share Posted February 7, 2011 Connectors - I was using Futaba stuff in the past but changed to Spektrum some 3 years ago - so I still have Futaba male and female connector kits which I will use now - this makes it also easier not to use the wrong one - as the Futaba nose doesn't want the Spektrum/JR counterpart. The main problem is the restricted space - and my whish to keep the COG in p;lace. so I cram everything as forward as possib;e - the thruth will show when the tail servos are in place and the fuselage is covered. But this will take a little time - this week will be a travelling week for me - so may be some silly comments but no building updates for the next days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 Another fabulous solution to the nose leg steering conundrum. Great little spring, nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 As the reader may know I use a homemade RDS (rotary drive system) for my ailerons. Some RDS update: On the 16th of December I wrote I think you get an RDS system also from Graupner - but not at the size needed for my model. In the meantime I found out that Graupner launched 3 sizes of RDS gear - one matching to their mini DES servo series, one for standard DES size and one for DES power servos. The cost is around 15 £ - so now there is no excuse for not using an RDS system because of missing tools... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 All connectors and extensions are made and in position. It needed more than one complete evening to make all extensions and connectors.As the receiver is not accessible (or lets say not too easy) I made extension leads for all channels Finally all broken parts of the fuselage are repaired and everything is ready for the last bit of planking. The parts forming the cowl are too small in my opinion, it is difficult to grind them to shape without getting very low thickness. If every ring forming the cowl would have been 2mm larger it would be an easy task. The steering arm for the front wheel is too high, I need to make a local hump into the fuselage to hide it. Finally I checked the weight – now it shows 1160g and there is still some Oracover to be added... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted February 19, 2011 Share Posted February 19, 2011 This little model is energy sapping isn't it. It feels like a 1000 hour museum piece. Jamara insist this is suitable for a first build. I've scaled up plans and converted to rc and had an easier time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 You are right rActive - but without the retracts and the light system I would have finished it by now. But it makes a lot of fun building it - and I don't mind if it takes longer. Especially with weekends like the one we had. Rain the whole Saturday, Sunday I charged and packed up 2 planes to go to the field - rain again.... But now to the update. Again a weekend with rather bad weather – so a lot of progress has been made. I made the hump over the front leg of the landing gear, I know it is not scale, but when the plane is in more than 3 m distance nobody will notice. I covered the fuselage – the front is a difficult bit. I could not manage to do the front with the side parts – I had to use an extra piece of foil for the front. Finally everything is covered; I glued in the lights and made the last connections. Theoretically the plane could fly now, but I will destroy it only when it is really finished… The weight is now 1190g, the COG looks ok and rather too far in the front… I have to add another 33g for the pilot. The COG too far in front this comes from my fear to be tail-heavy – would have been easier to put some of the devices like light control or receiver further back. Landing lights should be good enough to be seen in daylight. Actually I can use them as a torch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Looks fabulous, well done Those lights do look the business. just need some decent weather now...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Not much progress to report – I played too much with other toys like the Webbit and I used the few hours without rain on Sunday morning for dischargeing a few batteries at the field. But I painted the canopy. As I thought from the beginning, covering the windows was a problem. I was quite happy with my covering job, but removing the liquid mask wants even more patience then applying it… In the end a small silver tape had to help covering my bad quality work. Also it is a shame to have the rudder servo visible after investing time and effort into an RDS system.... May be I improve at the next proper build. Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 28/02/2011 08:25:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Looks good once the canopy is painted and in place, doesn't it. I ran 2 lipos through my Raven epp wing on Sunday morning before my fingers were freezing up. Now we have March which despite the onset of spring is always wet Hope you get to fly it soon, I think you will like it. Not agile like the extra, more like a warbird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 That really comes to life now VA, it was hard to picture before the canopy was painted. You are right about the servo at the back perhaps just a light dusting of white primer over the servo will tone it down? Still looks lovely though Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Danny, problem is that I had the idea for the RDS only after the fuselage was ready. Didn't read your Spitfire thread before Otherwise I would have used snakes - which are a bit more discreet.... Will paint over it. VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Very smart VA, very nice indeed. Are you planning to add some trim - stripes and the like? BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted February 28, 2011 Author Share Posted February 28, 2011 Yes BEB - I aim to make it look like G-EHMJ - even this is a version with wing tanks. But it is mainly white - this is why I covered the whole plane in white. As the blue stripe will be close to the cannopy I have to wait with the stripes until the cockpit is ready. If somebody is interested - here is a picture of the prototype. I will glue the cannopy in place with white adhesive oracover - or orastick as you call it - and the stripe will go partly over it. You see - everything planned... VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Very nice V, fine job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Hi VA; very nice job, i was thinking to buy one bonanza kit today i wanted to check the forums before i made a decision. I guess i am going to buy one tomorrow. The thread will be very helpful for sure. i may need more help though. GTE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 28, 2011 Share Posted February 28, 2011 Vecchio What is the wing loading coming out at? I guess the area is less than 2 ft^2? Looks good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted March 1, 2011 Author Share Posted March 1, 2011 Guner, Not a bad kit - even if there were some negative comments about material. If I would build it again I would carefully check and replace most of the sheathing material (mainly 1.2 and 1,5mm balsa sheet) and I would go for electric retracts as the peumatic ones with their stiff tubes and a large air tank are pretty difficult. Feel free to ask if you are going to build it. Erfolg: To give you a precise answer I have to check my data (and you get the answer in metric units - the UK changed to metric in 1967 if I am right....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted March 1, 2011 Share Posted March 1, 2011 Ohhhhh! Vechhio, you are not quite converted, not yet . Many things are still Imperial, the important things! What you cry? Well, pints of beer, lengths of timber (although cross section is metric) and of course wing loading. I guess I will have to get my calculator out, better still bring up a spreadsheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 I am easy to convert if it comes to the pint... But I still have my problems if my car runs on 52 miles per gallone - it doesn't say anything to me. (I don't change the on board computer - as I prefer distances in miles - otherwise I have to calculate for my reimboursements....) Wing area 17 dm2 - 1.83 ft2 Weight 1190g - 41.97oz So we have 70g/dm2 or 22.93oz/ft2 Quite heavy. But I don't think of endless vertical climbs with this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigh Posted April 4, 2011 Share Posted April 4, 2011 hi guys; any recent flights? i am looking forward to hear good news i am periodically checking to see a jamara bonanza video. but no luck. the kit is at my office i am scared to bring it home, anyway i wanted to ask a few things 1) what would you change if you have thought about the RDS system before you installed the tail servos? 2) what size electric retracts would you choose? if you can give me a link it will be even better 3) you complained about lacking of channels. how many channels did you have in your former transmitter 4) i couldn't see the ailereon flap and tail hinges in the pictures. what type of hinges do you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted April 5, 2011 Author Share Posted April 5, 2011 Recent flights - I fly every saturday and sunday if the weather allows it and every Thursday evening indoor if my time allows it - but this is not the Bonanza as it is still not finished... So - what happens? I played for hours with the picture for the cockpit - as I removed the control horns from the original picture. This did cost blood, sweat and many beers. This the panell as it looks now. It is not perfect but it will do. Next time I will show why I removed the control horns from the picture. Now to your questions ad 1) I would have used snakes (small bowden connection) for the movement of the rudder as the servo sticking out of the fuselage is not really scale like - this is more for an aerobatic ARTF where it is important to have a direct link with little play. ad 2) no idea - I didn't search for a particular product. - you have to look for something for this size of modell. ad 3) I use a 7 channel receiver. throttle elevator (mixed for V tail) rudder (mixed for V tail) aileron (2 servos on an y-cable - this is already a compromise as I prefer one channel per servo flaps retracts position and collision light system So this makes 7 in total - the landing lights I have coupled to the retracts by a micro switch. This would not be a problem with a cross - or T - tail - but with a V-tail I would need to use an unmixed rudder channel which I don't have - so I cannot use the servo for the nose wheel. ad 4) Hinges: for this size of plane I suggest using nonwoven strips ( the white little strips you get normally with a smaller ARTF plane - you can buy them also at better high street shops) To set them properly I suggest using a hinge slotting tool - costs approx 4£ and no more problems with wrong angles or out of center position. For larger sizes and scale look the best are Robart round hinges and hinge pockets (there are copies on the market which also work) Look at my Extra 260 thread or at Danny Fentons Spitfire thread then you can see those in action. Looking forward to hear from your build! VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 So on we go. I didn't find a matching spinner, as I have the engine mounted reverse. This means not the original shaft but a 6mm aluminium shaft is used for fixing the prop. You find a lot of props in the necessary dimension (38mm) for a 4 or 5mm shaft but nothing for a 6mm shaft. In the end I transferred my kitchen in a metallurgic workshop and made myself an adapter. Comes in handy that I made some life steam models in the past Using a piece of aluminium I made a conical adapter- after 5 or 6 trials the cone had the right angle - and I drilled and reamed a 6mm precision hole into it. On one side I added a small slit so the adapter can be compressed by the spinner. Works perfect without any visual excentricity. And this is how it looks finally. But back to the cockpit. It is quite shallow so I cannot put proper seats in. I made just the back of the seats. As material I used yellow extruded polystrene (insulation material for buidings). This is easy to shape, weighs almost nothing and can be painted by Humbrol or similar paints. Now you will see also my control horns, I made them out of 2mm polystrene. They are the reason for removing the horns from the cocpit picture by using photoshop. Finally time for the pilot to get in. Unfortunately some brutal surgery was necessary to get him in... When I was looking at the cannopy which I had painted one month ago I saw some wrinkles at the tape I used around the windows. So I had to replace it. Now I used Orastic - the self adhesive variation of Oracover. At the moment it looks o.k. The canopy is glued to the fuselage using orastic strips and now I have no excuse to go on with the final design of the plane. NO - not true - today is Thursday - so I will go indoor flying. Otherwise the fingers get rusty Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 14/04/2011 15:29:40Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 14/04/2011 15:31:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.