Vecchio Austriaco Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 About the etching - tried photo etching myself - is not the really easy stuff. So I would rather give it to somebody dealing with that on regular basis instead of starting it from scratch. This may result in bad results which let you cancel the idea. VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Just as an aside, I built the landing light into the wrong wing of my stuka before I realised. Despite blogging the build no one else ever noticed. I also had the pleasure of seeing one of the best scale stukas in the country- a 110" Zirolli plan build. I was chatting withthe builder and asked about a (to my mind) pretty big concession he had made to practicallity as opposed to scale. I won't share what it was, but he commented that I was the only person in 10 years to have noticed!! I love these little details on a model- but it is only the builder that ever actually sees them all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 thanks for the suggestions, etching is definitely something I want to try, it would be a shame to farm it out but it has to be worth a try. Hi Andy, I want compete in scale comps one day so people if only judges will spot the errors. Hi Chris I think the dished lith was a good solution, it is very light thats for sure. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 I undersand that Danny- I am slowly drifting that way myself- it is the word "all" that is important though. I doubt even the most pedatic of scale judges will see most of the little extra bits you put in to make it a specific plane etc, simply because the detailed knowledge a builder gets during their reading will be more than that of any judge. The only exception being someone else that has built a (very) similar model. But be honest Danny- even for competition, you don't put those features on for the judges- they are on because you know they should be there, and it's you that wants them on your model!! That's certainly how it is for me anyway, and it really annoys me if I can't have them- even when I know no one else will ever see them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Laser cutt steel or ally and then black paint? as for the connector cap then you can get similar thinks at industrial suppliers down to 1/4 inch. Try moss express for starters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Hi Andy, you are of course quite right, we do the detailing because that is what makes us "tick" and yes some of it wont be seen. I think what I have noticed is that if you detail one area, then don't detail another, the bit you didn't touch leaps out, not the bit you did! If you get my drift. So you have to do it all to the same level. Which is fun anyway Hi Olly, lasercutting was the answer for me. A mate, Steve (Jarman) had access to a laser and once he had a drawing proceeded to set fire to several materials before finding something that would work. It isn't dished as Chris has pointed out so it could still be better. Pete Fullard has made some that are dished, and I don't know how he has made them, but I have asked If you want some at 1/4 scale Mick Reeves sells them with his 1/4 scale Hurricane kit. The picture below shows a version using circuit board, the edges are smoother than it appears as the blackening is deceptive. However the versions that seem to work best are cut from Perspex, I never thought you could laser perspex, nore metal for that matter. Anyway, anybody had any thoughts on the rest of the structure, how would you replicate the fine cloth covered wire, and the visible riblets? Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/05/2012 11:13:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 How are you replicating the bolts Danny that hold the bulb holder in place? slotted pin heads? The bulb is the interesting bit, been racking my brains on how this could be done, an LED will just not look right. Unless you can disguise an LED? All interesting stuff. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 OK for the wire. I would get some thin bell type wire with the correct colours of insultation. hold them together with a few drops of cyano along the length, then wrap some black threads - probably 3 or 4 clockwisearound the length, do about 10 turns then overlay with 3 or 4 threads going the other way for 20 turns but 'looser' repeat for length, this will give a patterned woven look. Or go to local haberdashery and get some fine weave black wool fabric and cut and glue. for the amount you'll need they'll probably have scraps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Hi Richard, I was intending to hold it in place with real nuts and bolts I have some that would work. However one way I have done it in the past is to use Plastruct or styrene hex section, slice it thinly and it looks like nuts and bolts. The bulb is a tough one and I haven't cracked that yet. It is a large round clear bulb, but at this scale it is not that large at all. I was toying with vacforming something, but may have a look at some christmas light bulbs, or even dolls house lighting first. I even considered attempting glass blowing. Could be fun, but possibly a bridge too far Here is my Spitfire oleos with hex section attached and some thread for wire locking. Hi Olly, bell cable I assume is the same as the thin stuff in multi cored telephone cables? I have yet to do this bit but have a cunning method I want to try. I will let you know if it works. Keep the ideas rolling Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Mick Reeves also sells some super tiny bolts etc for such things. Going from memory they arent really structural. One of the really interesting bits about this sort of detailing is the answer often comes completely from left field. I was in our prep room earlier and noticed a whiteboard projector bulb. It looked similar to the original spec- albeit too big. I then started wondering if smaller projectors have smaller bulbs........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Same stuff as phone line wire, but generally very stiff., and available in rolls of single colour. I still have some from a project i did years ago, I needed about 5 meters in each of 3 colours and ended up buying 30m of each..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Hi Andy, the Mick Reeves screws and bolts are fab aren't they? I seem to remember they were in "cor blimey" sizes. They are great for canopies and have a few already. If you are like me the Mick Reeves website is lethal on my wallet. Soooo many goodies Olly i think we have all been there, its useful to have "stuff" for any ocassion I am not the only one that wanders around Tesco looking at the packaging then Andy..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Who says a bulb of the correct shape and size was not available.......... I hasten to add I haven't found one yet but they are around in Dolls House circles Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 I have had a PM from a forumite suggesting I try metal spinning. This is where you take a circular disc of metal and spin it in a lathe (Woodworking usually) and using tools gradually force it over a former. I have seen You Tube videos on this, and it looks interesting. Anybody any thought on doing it on a small scale, my reflector is 1" diameter. And one other thing the reflector must not have a central hole in the backplate? Any ideas? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonRB Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 We used to spin aluminium shrouds for ROV thrusters (look like EDF shrouds) these were done over a metal former producing what looked like a bell. We then cut off the top of the bell to leave a shaped tube. The cut-off top of the bell was exactly like a lamp reflector - problem is there is a hole in the end where the disk was secured to the former. For smal items it is possible to use a hardwood former, but securing the circular metal plate to the end of the former without bolting it is a challenge. I don't know if sufficient frictional force could be applied using a revolving tailstock centre (with the point covered) to squeeze the disk against the end of the former? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Hi Gordon, it is an interesting idea, and you have exactly identified my concern. I noticed on some videos that the plate was not drilled, however thos items had large clamping surfaces. What I tried to do inittially was to find a company that would chrom plastic and vacform the reflectors. But that failed to come to anything. Spinning with perhaps a circular, slightly dished, hard rubber pad on the end of the lathe live centre might work?? It has to be worth a try Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonRB Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Danny, in the past I have molded bits from plastic coke bottles, so I carried out a small experiment.The only thing I had to use as a plug was a small screwdrivwer handle - just over 1/2" diameter. I then used a small piece of ally tube to sandwich a disk of bottle plastic against the screwdriwver handle with the revolving centre. With the lathe turning slowly, I used a hot sealing iron to start moving the plastic over the handle. This worked for a while but as the diameter grew, the plastic would not move easily even with the iron at its hottest setting, so I used a heat gun to blow hot air over it while still using the iron to push the material over the handle. As a first attempt it worked very well and I am sure that with a bit of practice and refinement it would be possible to produce excellent results. There is no hole in the end either. May be worth a try? Gordon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Hi Gordon, I like the way your mind works! However I made a vacform table a while ago and can form stuff no problems. The issue was chroming plastic. Richard Crapp told me it could be done, because he had some props chromed. But I just couldn't find anybody that could do it. I vacform my own spinners Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Olsen 1 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 You generally don't chrome plastic, you vacuum deposit a thin layer of aluminium on it. This is done in a vacuum chamber by vapourising a small amount of metal, usually I think by fusing a piece of suitable wire in there. It is probably a bit beyond the home workshop unless you happen to have a good vacuum pump lying around. The chrome bits for plastic kitsets are usually done this way. Sometimes you will see a small lightbulb that has coated the filament all over the inside of the glass in failing, giving an interesting mirror effect. Non conductors can be chromed, it is done by coating the object with a suitable conductor beforehand. Seamless tanks have been made by electroplating material onto a suitable form of something soluble or meltable...I think wax has been used. One the electroplating is thick enough, you melt out the former and there is a nice lightweight tank. regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonRB Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Danny, I don't know if you have come across tis before but this is a pretty good product - needs careful preparation to get smooth finish but sprays well using airbrush. Not too expensive either. **LINK** Gordon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hi Gordon, I had seen the stuff before but with shipping from the States and the quantities involved ruled it out. But your link is UK based and small amount, so it looks like its worth a try. Thanks for sending it through I will order some. When I watched the you tube vids they recomended using the base black first. I will get some on order. Thanks for the link Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I really enjoy your article Danny. I am only on my second build (Galaxy Domino Bipe) so I am nowhere near warbird level and scale detail yet, but your articles will help me when I eventually get round to building a Spitfire, or even an RC Concorde model in the future (gonna do it one day!). Sorry I can't really help much with your landing light. The proposal in the mag looks promising, as long as the thin wooden spiral bits don't break. CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Hi CS, as long as people like yourself enjoy it then that works for me I appreciate that there are not many as barking mad as I clearly am But I assure you there are others Completely off topic: I did do a rather large blog on a 72" Spitfire that you might get some tips from when you do one, just search for "Don't just stand there, get one up!" but it is loooooooong I have a clubmate that is doing his third or fourth Concorde, this one is his largest yet at 18 feet long. I saw a picture and all the structure is done and it was sat on its wheels. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 I've already read your Spitty blog- very interesting. It did take me 2 hours though! I like Spitfires. And Hurricanes. And Mustangs. And FW190s. The list goes on. But I LOVE Concorde! An 18 foot long one is MASSIVE! And here's a fact- 18 feet is 216 inches. 216 is also the registration number for Concorde G-BOAF, the last Concorde to be built and the last to fly, currently at Filton airfield. Just proving that I am also barking mad- a complete Concorde nerd! CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GordonRB Posted July 9, 2012 Share Posted July 9, 2012 Danny, No thanks to me - it was my daughter - part of her business is craft-based and she uses all sorts of metallic paints, most of which are not shiny enough. I haven't seen it on Youtube so I'll look tonight. She also suggested plastic Xmas baubles cut in half. She has lots of these in different sizes, so I have asked her to drop some off and I will try them. May not be silvered on the inside, but may be good for the shape - perhaps you have tried already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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