Max Thrust Riot review

[gary132]

the whole model comes apart with a philips scredriver and only takes minutes.

[gary132]

i have not been around for a while, do you still need measuremnets for the box as the box is still under my bench intact. ? if so i will go measure it.

[Tony Forrest]

The Riot box is 17x42x10 inches. There is no glue needed for assembly and it goes together very easily with just a cross-head screw driver. The wing panels come apart so you can pack the whole thing in the box. I'd say the packing is adequate for air travel, even better if you also have the outer card shipping carton.

Note the battery box restricts you to something like a 3s 2650mah. But with a bit of modifying, you can probably get a bigger battery in, although your CofG will now change!

[Tony Gower]

Thanks Tony, Gary. I wanted sizes for car travel in fact. Bigger batteries may be possible if the nose weight is removed. Mine's now on order!

[Steve Kenney]

Hi all - just started flying again after a 12-year layoff with an electric glider (JP Sky Surfer) - got on well with that, so bought a Riot a few months ago.

Thought I'd post my thoughts here (hope it's the right place!). Generally, very good quality kit - only issues were the elevators being fixed out of alignment (one side was hinged off-centre), so I cut out the hinge on the underside of the tailplane and inserted a replacement so all lined up. The spinner and 'engine cowl' had the paint flaking off in various places, but nothing serious - it's now got more than a bit flaking off after a few 'bouncy' landings!

Flies very well, with plenty of power (for me) on 2250 3S and standard prop (about 8-9 mins flight time - not all at full power). With increased throws and a better prop, it will suit me very well to further my experience.

I can understand some of the comments about the model and the name: Riot - if you are looking for a 3D-type machine and want a missile, then this is perhaps not the model for you - a more experienced pilot would be looking for more power.

As a returner to his wonderful hobby, and needing to build up my 'stick time' again, it's great! (good value, too)

[Rex Keene]

Well, I've given up waiting for my Foam Wot4 to come down from a tree, so just ordered one..

I'm hoping to get, in effect, a Wot4 alternative with lights. I don't expect nor want a rocket ship, I want a plane that can function as a trainer, and a little bit beyond.

Looking forward to getting it

[Mark Beckwith]

On the strength of a recommendation and the posts in this helpful thread I have purchased the Riot. I have put it together but have not flown it yet.

I can fly fixed pitch helicopters but this is my first venture into fixed wing so I have a couple of newbie questions if you don't mind:

The recommended control surface deflections are given in mm each way. Can I simply measure, for example, the travel of the rear of the elevator with a ruler and adjust as necessary? If the angle was given in degrees I would be confident that I knew what they meant, perhaps mm is trying to keep it simple,

Should adjustments be achieved by servo arm connection changes, or by using the dual rate function on my DX6i? or perhaps a combination of both?

And lastly, can I establish the centre of gravity by simply using a couple of rubber tipped pencils to support the model and move the battery within its box (which I have fitted with velcro strips), or is that not sufficient, although there does seem to be a fair amount of tolerence in the COG?

Thank you for any advice you can give.

[Nigel Beaney]

I am enjoying the Riot, good fun and has received very positive comments from other club members who have tried/observed it in flight.

I recently saw an article on another forum that included an email from CenturyUK saying that it was possible to upgrade the pwer train to run using a 4S battery, which will balance if you remove the steel wight at the front of the battery box and replace with a piece of ply.

They stock a very slimline 4S pack that fits into the battery box, (the one issue with the design!), so I thought I'd compare with my standard 3S set up.

Detailed below are static current measurements taken today using an Astro Wattmeter with the range of props that CenturyUK recommended.

Unfortunately, the manual does not detail the max current that the motor can handle, (nor the motor constants) but hopefully it will handle all of the below.

Battery: ThunderPower 2700 3S 25C (Same weight as most 2200 packs)

Prop: Standard 12x6

Results: 11.5V, 30.0A, 345W (Standard Results)

Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C

Prop: APC-E 10x5

Results: 15.3V, 27.9A, 426W

Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C

Prop: APC-E 10x6

Results: 15.1V, 32.7A, 493W (Motor Warm after short test)

If anyone knows the motor ratings, (particularly the max recommended motor current), would be very interested to have them so I can run them through MotorCalc.

Best Regards

Nigel

[IAN MCCONNELL]

Taken your advice and used a APC 10X5 prop with a slim 2700 (21 mm) 4S LIPO from Hobbyking.

Problem is motor will only stutter and sounds like it is chewing the insides to pieces. Motor also gets

exceedingly hot. After cooling motor replaced with 3 S LIPO and exerything runs smooth except obviously

limited (250 -280 watts) on smaller prop. Attempted this twice with same result.

[PeterH]

I've just bought a Riot from Wheelspin.

As an update - it doesn't come with a spare prop or spinner. Secondly there is a length of double sided 3Ms tape die cut in the shape of the wing section. I can find no mention of this in the instructions but presumably it is to stick the 2 halves of the wing together.

So far it has performed well and Wheelspin gave excellent mail order service.

[bert baker]

Posted by Rex Keene on 05/08/2012 21:59:40:

Well, I've given up waiting for my Foam Wot4 to come down from a tree,

Prune the tree from the bottom,

[Simon Tufnail]

I have also just bought one of these from Wheelspin. I bought it on the advice of the instructor at my local club. I have been flying a Sport Cub S in a park since March. I wanted to move on, learn to fly something that would put up with more wind. I joined the club, I was advised to get the Riot. All the on-line videos and reviews were in line with what I believe I want/need so I bought it.

It's huge! It hasn't got SAFE or any other stabilisation. Scary. I know I'm going to crash it. I won't fly it without someone experienced on a buddy box though, not for a while.

I'm also wondering about the 3M tape. I have emailed Century, maybe they will answer. Some companies do, some don't.

The wing tip lights - anyone know if it is possible/advisable to use the bind plug socket on a four channel receiver to plug the lights in to?

[Colin Carpenter]

Don't worry it's a fine trainer. Just don't overdo control movements. I taught myself to fly on mine and then move to aeros . U/c is strong . Forget the lights they are useless unless flying at dusk. No 3M tape in mine though ! It's still in 1 piece 250 flights later and no servo problems. Colin

[Simon Tufnail]

So, Colin,

Did you go from not being able to fly to being able to fly just using the Riot? Did you have someone helping on a buddy box?

Simon.

[Simon Tufnail]

Posted by Simon Tufnail on 25/06/2016 08:19:48:

I'm also wondering about the 3M tape. I have emailed Century, maybe they will answer. Some companies do, some don't.

I received a reply from Century early today. Nice and prompt, I like that.

The double sided tape is indeed to be placed between the wings. Century don't consider it necessary but they know that some owners do prefer to have the added reinforcement so they include for that purpose.

[Colin Carpenter]

Simon. The Riot followed an Easy Glider Mk1 after a month or so cos in this country the weather's not always good enough for one of those ! No buddy lead ! I'm self taught as I was in I C helis in the 80,s. Just keep it smooth and not too far away. Chop the throttle on a calm day and glide it down but don't forget rudder to keep it straight .Don't forget to flare . All the best ! Colin

[Simon Tufnail]

Wow, Colin,

I can't imagine learning to fly on my own without stabilisation/SAFE. When I fly my little Sport Cub S switched to experienced mode hardly a flight goes by where the wings level function hasn't saved me from an expensive crash.

So, I imagine that every time I put the Riot in the air without a buddy box I will crash it. Then repair it. Then fly it a little bit further before crashing it. And then repairing it again.

If I'm lucky the plane will still be flying by the time I've stopped crashing all the time. This is how it went with my first plane, a Hobbyzone Champ. Less crashing with the Sport Cub S because of SAFE but less learning how to fly properly as well.

Now, I feel that Century deserve a mention here. I was in dialogue with the company regarding the double sided tape mentioned above. I happened to mention a small plastic component which looked broken. I sent a photo. My questions: Is it broken? If it is, does it matter, can I just glue it back together?

Century answered, yes, it is broken, no it doesn't really matter but we are going to send you a replacement anyway. I was only asking for advice, I expected to have to go back to the supplier if a replacement was required.

Century = first class service. I didn't even have to ask for a solution.

Simon.

[Peter Beeney]

I have a ‘hack’ Riot which has flown on 4 cells for quite some time now. It’s certainly been through the wars, so to speak, but still keeps tramping on, actually it’s still rather lively; and it’s also been modified a bit to cope with the extra poke.

The motor is ok, but it is fairly basic, it has a plain oilite bronze bush bearing, they are not that easy to repair but I’ve vandalised mine more than once; and oddly enough, I can find every size of bush on the web except that one. Same with the rear end circlip, we have a very friendly motor accessory shop handy and they have every size of E clip bar the Riot motor! There is a compatible ‘Donkey’ motor from HK, exact same fit and very much cheaper; lower kV rating, though, 720 from memory. So a 9 x 7 might be ok here.

When I changed to 4 cells I straightaway found the rudder and particularly the elevator were very iffy, so I decided that the push rods were now not up to the job and I moved the servos to the rear end and used short stout metal push rods. Much better, but the elevator could still be a bit reluctant, especially at the end of a flat out power dive very close to the ground. Interesting times! Installing a Blue Bird 380 metal geared fixed it, now total confidence in any situation. The aileron servos have never blinked, though, despite having the max travel available. Like every thing else, they often have to work hard when I go flying, I sometimes tend to get a bit carried away in the heat of the moment…

I changed straight to a 9 x 7 ACP i/c prop, this was excellent until the motor started chattering loudly, on landing I found the bearing had knocked itself out and was mostly plastered around the motor on the inside of the fuz in the form of a black gunge. I replaced this with one from a motor with broken lugs, changed to a 9 x 6 ACP and it’s been fine ever since. I’m not too keen on the Century prop driver either, so I changed that too.

I tend not to generally consider watts and stuff too much, I just use a tacho and check how hot it’s running. Incidentally, if the motor starts stuttering cut the throttle immediately; the power system is being subjected to a full current flow and could quickly complain by rapidly overheating.
The motor is rated at 850 kV and 4 cells fully charged = 16.8V. 850 x 16.8 = 14280 rpm, which is about what I clocked for the no-load rpm. On the 9 x 6 it’s 12000 rpm, which gives a theoretical in the air speed of about 68 mph. The nominal voltage figure of 14.8 gives a speed of about 60 mph. The pack is a 2.2Ah Nano Tech, I fly for around 5 - 6 minutes if using a lot of loud pedal, but there’s always some ampere minutes left. I’d estimate a current flow of around 30 amps, perhaps, everything stays nicely cool even after a lively flight; but there is a good cooling air flow through; very important.

The next move might be upping the ante to some Hyperion higher voltage 4 cell packs. A little bit more get up and go and these have a reputation for being able to hold the voltage up under load, too.

Hope this useful for anyone who is looking to improve the performance a few shades!

Edit.  Just for interest, I’ve just checked the current, and with a fully charged pack it’s 33.3 amps. So up to about 560 watts then.                                  

PB

Edited By Peter Beeney on 27/06/2016 14:26:14

[Frederick Coulson]

I replaced the motor with this one (400W) 920KV 125g EMax BL2815-09 Brushless Outrunner Motor £17.73 from BRC, Fitted a 10x5.5 prop.
And this speed controller Top-sell Hobbywing SkyWalker 60A Brushless ESC Speed Controller With UBEC X4J8, cut away the battery box ground the piece of ply near the front and lined the inside with 1/16 ply, (but not on this one yet) fitted a FLOUREON 14.8V 3300mAh 4S 45C LiPo Battery Deans Plug for RC Helicopter Car UK, and it now go’s like a scolded cat! A great plane now.
Note I have a rubber end for the spinner!

Unable to work out how to put picture on site ???

[Tom Ryall]

I picked up a new Riot but it seems to be missing both the Y lead and the connector that fits the aileron servos to the board? Has anyone else experienced this?

In my frustration at realsing this I also seemed to have overtightened the prop adapter! Looking back through the thread the shaft seems to be 5mm - is that correct? Can anyone recommend a replacement as the Century website is out of stock.

Glad I got it out and started assembling it before 'giving' it to the little fella although annoyed that it wasn't the 30mins assembly I was expecting!

[DAVID NELSON 3]

Hi Tom, if the riot uses digital servos don't use a y lead. You can only plug each servo straight into the receiver using separate ports. It's to do with the signal etc that I'm sure other more techy guys will explain about. You might just need two extension leads. Dave

[Tom Ryall]

David,

Thanks - I've spoken to Century, a Y lead should have been included but wasn't so I'll have to source on of those. The earlier versions did have the ailerons plugged in to the board but the later ones don't so the image on this thread that I was working from is now dated.

Thanks for the response - now to get a y lead and prop adapter!

Cheers,

Tom.

[Engine Doctor]

The Riot is now called the Devil ! Apparently the new stock arrived is exactly the same model just decaled up as the Devil for I believe the US market.  Great electric starter model .

[Tom Ryall]

It is - apparently the factories are re-locating so there is a pause in production...of the spares at least.

I've just ordered a 5mm replacement prop adaptor from elsewhere so hopefully that will work.

[Tom Ryall]

Has anybody else had issues with the length of the push rods? My rod on the rudder is about 10-12mm to long so even with the clevis wound right up the rudder is way of centre. I've removed it and marked where it should be with pen? Any tips?

Sourced a Y lead on the way home and my right aileron is making a very strange noise - sounds like it's catching on the rest of the wing as if the inner edge needs trimming or some of the decal is catching but no sign.....

A 30min build this one definitely isn't!