cymaz Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 You are a sucker for punishment Stearmanandy Great look though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 very nice indeed, can't want to see the rest of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Very nice result Stearmanandy. I see you've put the squares and then you've tightened all together, base and squares, don't you? I use a different method for film-over-film works, which ensure a finish without a single bubble. First, I apply and tighten the base layer, and then I put the upper layer (decoration) using monokote solvent (or in most cases, glass cleaner which works exactly the same and it's cheaper...). I remove the excess of product with a credit card or similar (as in "wet" vinyl applications) and let dry overnight. The next day, I ensure the corners and external lines with the iron at a very low temperature (90-100 centigrade), and that's it. The only downside of this system is that you can't re-tighten afterward, but I've used it in many models with no issue at all (the last one was a Pepsi Chipmunk from Apache Aviation, with a checkered finish). In any case, very nice work Edited By Alejandro Valle Carrillo on 12/05/2014 13:03:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Just heard my new muffler will take a couple of days before its ready. Aluminium needs a super good welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funflyerColin Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Hi guys, well done on your flight cymaz. I keep coming back and looking at this great thread to get ideas for my Stampe, as you've seen she requires a bit of TLC. I've now made a bit of a slow start on her was very surprised at her weight compared to others here must be the motor she had in her and that she's covered in what is possibly Solorfilm from way back. I've now decided to strip it all from the fusealarge and recover what in I'm not sure of atm, inter plane struts need replacing as have rusted and got rather weak. Cabane structure needs resoldering and struts making, I've made a start on the cockpits and made some new windshields. This wasn't quite what i had in mind when i bought her, hoping that all i had to do was a bit of tidying up and get her in the air ho hum. Heres some pics I think that adding the instruments to the front and painted the insides gray have made a difference.Will be back looking for more ideas from what you guys have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stearmanandy Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Hi Colin, at least it is a vintage flyer and most of the work was done already , so if it was not very expensive there is no way to claim for your work just keep in mind, that one day she will be pretty again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Don't be afraid to strip every bit of covering off. The bit you leave on may have something broken underneath it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 I went to the field yesterday to do my maiden but the engine played up and I never left the pits area, so I am going to convert the SAITO 180 back to glow, this will keep it cooler and stop it overheating. Does anyone have any experience with header tanks? With my current tank set up it is on the CoG and low in the aircraft frame. When I convert back to glow this position is not ideal. So I am thinking that with a header tank I can put this up near to the carb, will this work? And will the fuel rise up from the lower main tank to the header tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Hi John, first question is why is the tank so far back? This cannot help the cg unless you have already got this correct without fuel and will give fuel flow problems with the nose up. Fine if you are using crankcase pressure and a regulator. The supplied tank on mine fits just behind the motor. As I see it, a header tank is to prevent air bubbles from being sucked into the carb. I have never needed to use one but have built models for others with this feature. The fuel still needs to be sucked up somehow from the rear tank so would serve no other purpose despite what you may read in some model mag. articles about none return valves in the line etc. If you persevere with petrol you will only need a small tank anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Hi Martin, the tank is right on the CoG position, this way no mater how much fuel you have the plane is still balanced. This is obviously not going to work for a glow engine as it is too far back hence the header tank, idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 John, you might try one of these Perry pump An extra tank with the extra pipe work and joins might lead to undetectable air leaks and frustration. Edited By cymaz on 18/05/2014 09:58:02 Edited By cymaz on 18/05/2014 09:59:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Thanks, that might just work are they any good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 These work. No adjustment possible or necessary. Only produced in the 70`s but I managed to get a couple more at last year`s Nats bring and buy. Never tried nor had to use one on a four stroke though. Crankcase pressure is fed to the tank, which is then sealed and as the throttle is closed a crafty fool proof valve shuts down giving a constant pressure of fuel to the carb. regardless of attitude or tank location. Only works with twin needle carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Unless you have a internal pump on the engine, I would fit tank forward and just accept a little elevator trimming as tank empty's, am told that cline pumps are o.k. but have no personal experience of them. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 18, 2014 Author Share Posted May 18, 2014 As you have a Saito, John, you might want to read this article Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 I have a little problem. Most of the major parts now done and I think that I am ready to sheet the fus. underside but I have several pieces of 1/8 x 3/8 and 1/8 x 1/2 which I have not found a use for. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 Thanks very much cymaz, that is perfect information, I've ordered the pump....... Lets see what happens. I striped the engine down today ready to put it back as a glow, I am going to replace the bearings as well.......any way whilst striping down I noticed that the cam's were severely warn, I think this was due to the overheating and there not being enough lubrication getting to them. A new cam gear has been ordered as well........this is getting to be expensive. I'll post some pics tomorrow. looking good Martin, in no time you will be covering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stearmanandy Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Don´t worry Martin on my Slec kit is a whole pile of wood left, so I would say use it where ever you like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Just realised that they are probably intended for strut fairings. Now to the upper wing mounts and motor/cowl installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Here's the picture of the damaged Cam Gear from my SAITO 180 this was cased by the overheating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 That engine must of got remarkably hot to have generated enough heat to do that damage. It's a wonder the small end and main bearings didn't seize first. If that engine got that hot within the cowl, a glow engine will do just the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 I am always puzzled why we don't do what the heli flyers do - and have additional heat sinking on the cylinder head. Apart from putting some additional weight in the right area, it cant be that difficult (for a 2 stroke anyway!) to get a heat-sink from RS or Farnell, cut a suitable sized hole and clamp it around the cylinder head. You could be very flexible how the heat-sink was cut so that it fits properly, but you would need to make sure that it was clamped around a reasonable thickness of head - say 10mm - so you don't get uneven cooling. It will be something that I will be looking at when I am at this stage.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pegasus Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Martyn, putting a heat sink on the cylinder head will only increase the surface area, you will still need to have the correct airflow to take that heat away. I fly helis, I don't use heat sinks as there is enough open space and air around the engine to keep it cool, most fuel powered helis also have built in fans to direct airflow over and around the engine. You have to look at the physics of airflow to maximise it's potential as a cooling system. Volkswagen beetles used an air cooled engine, to make this system efficient the airflow was ducted around the heads very cleverly. using louvers to create a Venturi effect can be very helpful, as some of the chaps have got installed, if it comes in, it must be able to get out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Hill 6 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 Hi cymaz, after a day of trying to get the SAITO to run on glow fuel with the pump, I've given up trying to get it to run properly. So I am seriously considering putting in a Evolution 26GX. I know you have the 33GX do you think the 26 will have enough power? The reason for choosing the 26GX is that I think it is smaller than the 33 and so I will be hopefully abel to get the exhaust in the cowl without cutting it. Does any know how much smaller the 26 is? Can I also ask how much of the cowl did you end up cutting to fit the exhaust in, or is there another option for the exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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