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Tyro Rudder Control


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I'm trying to figure out a neat and tidy arrangement for the rudder control for the Tyro Major I'm building. The rudder does not extend below the stern post and I'm trying not to make it look too awkward where the control linkage exits the rear of the fuz.

I realy would appreciate it if anyone who has built a Tyro, Mini Tyro, or even Super 60 - they all have the same fin/rudder arrangement, could tell me how you did it.

rudder

 

Edited By Colin Ashman on 30/11/2012 12:54:26

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Hi Colin,

I built a mini Tyro this time last year, equiped with a closed loop rudder control. I drew the servo position onto the plan and then drew a straight line to where the rudder horn was going to be. That gave me the position where the lines exited the top sheeting, whereupon I simply cut out a couple of slots for the wire to pass through. I was lucky enough that the triangular supports were narrow enough to not get in the way.

The rudder horn was about half an inch up from the bottom on the mini, but I guess on the full size you might want it a bit higher.

I can take some pics of mine later if you would like to see how it turned out.

r.

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I cheated a little bit there Colin! My servos were 9g jobs which mean that even though they were placed side-by-side the rudder one was not off of centre by very much. It does of course mean one cable is slightly longer than the other and a degree of differential movement exists, but I removed that with the end point adjustment in the transmitter.

Might be worth noting I tend to cross the wires between the servo and the rudder which normally ensures a straighter path.

What will you be powering it with, just out of interest?

Good luck btw, it is a lovely aircraft, I intend to make a full sized Tyro one day!

r

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Just bought an Enya SS30 for it.

I'm trying to keep it light, but my inexperience will probably mean that it will end up heavier than it should be, which is why I went for an engine at the top of the recomended range, i.e. .19 to .30.

Sorry to repeat my question, did use a closed loop system on the elevators as well? If so, did that present any problems with the tailplane positioned as low down as it is

Cols

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You should have plenty of power on tap with a .30!

For the elevator I ran a traditional pushrod rather than closed loop. The usual spruce of similar dowel with a couple of threaded rods bent at 90degrees and pushed into holes in the dowel and then bound and glued on. I probably put a Z-bend at the servo end and a clevis at the back, although I'm not 100% sure now and the garden looks too frosty to brave a trip to the shed!

r.

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I built a 45" span Tyro from the original free plan (1966) for single channel then upgraded to rudder & elevator when I bought my first propo radio a couple of years later. A mate built the Tyro Major not long after that plan was published (1972).

Both models had push rod for rudder & elevator with "Z" shaped bike spokes exiting through slots in the fuselage to clevises on the respecive control horns. From memory, the elevator slot would be about the top of the 1/4" doubler & centred between the last two 1/4" sq uprights. The rudder slot cut through the fin support & centred on the last upright. The slots were on opposite sides to avoid the pushrods fouling each other. For the pushrods we used 1/4" balsa with bike spoke bound to the ends with thread & epoxy but today I'd use 4mm carbon tubes with bike spokes but tied with kevlar thread & cyanoed.

My Tyro was powered by a Frog 1.49 diesel later changed for a Fox 15 & my mates Tyro Major had an OS 30. Both models were nylon covered, so not lightweights but there was plenty of power for aerobatics when mine had the Fox 15 in it & my mate's from the start. The OS 30 had about the same power as a modern 19.

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Colin, I'd love to be able to tell you exactly how the linkages were setup on my Tyro Major, but it was not far short of 40 years ago when I built it!

However I'm certain it used a "conventrional" pushrod very much like Pat describes above for his smaller Tyro. As for exactly where the pushrod exited, I haven't a clue!

Mine was also not a lightweight, being nylon covered plus dope and fuelproofer. With an Enya 19 it certainly wasn't overpowered, but flew perfectly adequately for its intended purpose (ie. a trainer!)

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Hi Colin

I've never built a Tyro but I did build a Super 60 for last year's vintage mass build. I used a dowel balsa pushrod for the elevator and a closed loop for the rudder. I fitted an Irvine 30 to it, a similar engine to your Enya, which provides plenty of power.

Bearing in mind that the Super 60 is a bigger airframe, by a factor of 25%, I'm wondering whether you may be over-powering your Tyro with a modern ball-raced 30. If you're an experienced pilot you might well get away with. it but if you're a novice I would have thought that a modern 15-19 would have been ample for such a small model,

Happy Landings

David

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  • 2 months later...

As someone mentioned the original 1966 45 inch span Tyro it's worth stating here that to celebrate it's 21st birthday in RCME December 1987 Ian Peacock published his Tyro GT conversion. This was a new symmetrical aileron wing with sheeted LE top & bottom. A full size wing rib was shown ( 6 inch chord without aileron ) and a tiny plan of the new wing. The idea was that once you had got beyond the trainer stage you could convert your fuselage by changing the wing seat cutout and fitting the new wing.

David Boddington was RCME editor at the time so I suppose it met with his approval! Maybe someone will build a Tyro Major GT.............

Also noted in the article was the Micro Mold Tyro Too which was a Tyro with swept fin and sleek nose redesign done by Ian Peacock because Boddo was busy with film work.

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