Devcon1 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Hi Darran, Looking forward to seeing some pics of your build, keep us posted. I found attaching the rear longerons and keel plate to the tub first made laying out the rear end easier. Re F1 I've allowed 6mm from the back of the prop to the front surface of the cowl. You can do this by placing the motor with prop and mounting upright on your work bench and measuring the height to the front face of the prop driver, use this measurement against the plan to position F1. Hope this helps. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Posted by John Milne on 09/02/2014 00:02:18: John, Where are they hiding ? John place for pushy cats to hang out John had a fair litter, counted 14 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Darran, When did you order your replacement packs? My first packs have been on order for several weeks now and still no news of their arrival time. To position the motor , I just laid it on the plan and marked the position of the mount. Regards JohnM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darran Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 Posted by John Manning on 12/02/2014 08:51:29: Darran, When did you order your replacement packs? My first packs have been on order for several weeks now and still no news of their arrival time. To position the motor , I just laid it on the plan and marked the position of the mount. Regards JohnM John my original packs came a week before xmas having been ordered a week before, but having opened it on xmas day and found it was broken I contacted them on the 5th jan and they sent me a replacement within a week. i found them to be very quick at dispatch have you spoken to them have they said where the delay is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Fuselage sides have been cut to the new lengthened size, some more laminated surface edges have been made. Two have made it to a nearly filled shape. I use six laminations of 1mm or thinner sheet. Soon I shall need the wood packs. When I phoned about the outstanding items the person I spoke to could offer no dates or reason for the delay. Got other things to do, like replace the ESC on my Gym Star. I managed to plug the battery in the wrong way round. smoke and funny smell. With a bigger battery pack on the Dawn Flyer I must choose a positive connector system. JohnM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Quick question please. Can I still take part in the mass build if my Dawn Flyer is not the same as the one in the magazine? The main difference is that it will be powered by a 2 stroke glow engine, along with some other minor alterations to the design although it is still being built from the original plans. I quite fancy going to Greenacres and see all the other builds. It may just be the incentive needed to get my A Cert too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Hi Chris, If you read back through this thread you will find quite a few variations on the theme. Mine with it's extended nose, BEB with his D box front to the wing assembly and little variations among the others. I don't recall anyone going for I/C power though. The extra weight may help the balance problems some have encountered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Hi Chris, Others could explain better but as I see it you can interpret the plan to incorporate your own ideas. I think the original concept is for experienced builders to share their experience for the benefit of those that have maybe never tackled a traditional build before. There are some great Build Blogs on the forum that I've learnt so much from ranging from pretty much plan perfect builds to supersized Dawn Flyers. The Dawn Flyer is such a good design it lends itself to you putting your signature to it whilst retaining the original planform. Look forward to seeing your build and your take on it. Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hooray, Postie, well courier just delivered the CNC and wood pack. May have to do some serious building. I tried ordering the wheels (flair) from SMC I think but the site fell over when I clicked on pay. shall try telephone ordering. Next re-read BEB's build blog. John M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 A question if I may about how you applied the stain. Brush Sponge Other. I am thinking brush, but what did you do? Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I used a paint brush dipped in the stain then blotted with tissue to do the lattice work at the rear and a lint free duster for the front panelled areas. The lint free bit is important otherwise you'll have fluff everywhere, it's a pig to get off and you're bound to find the bits you've missed just after the varnish has dried! Beware though the stains are not designed for balsa and as such soak in extremely quickly and the balsa wicks the solvent away from the pigments leaving stripes & patches if you don'y go fast enough. Once you start keep moving and don't pause for anything! Edited By Chris Barlow 1 on 10/03/2014 18:17:12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Well as you can see on my blog I had a few "issuettes" with the stain. My main problem was glue! As Chris says balsa is very absorbent - well anywhere glue hasn't been anyway! Anywhere glue has been in contact with is very much less absorbent! So I ended up with pale spots! I sorted it by re-veneering the surface with 1/32" sheet and, though I say so myself, its a pretty fair finish now and you'd never tell. I used a brush - a 1/2" job - with quite soft bristles. Chris is spot on about working fast - get the whole coat on and brush out the full length of the job whilst its still all wet. Watch the edges where there can be a build up of stain if you are not careful. I did two coats with a 24 hour drying time in between, then a rub down with a 600 grit foam sanding pad, wipe off with acetone to get rid of all the dust then a third coat. That give me the depth and evenness of colour I wanted. Finally several days later - when I was sure it was completely dry - I coated over it with a gloss clear polyurethane varnish for protection. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Thank you all. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Help. well sort of. I've started the fuselage and F4 seems to be too tall and not wide enough. I have glued it at the bottom of the slope ans indicated on the plan. The notch in the top is above the cut out for the wing bearer plate. Have I stuck it in the wrong place? Is it the wrong size? any comments would be most welcome, including a lnk to BEB's build blog! Many thanks JohnM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hello John. Some pictures would be nice if you can. Are you building from a kit of parts you have cut out yourself or the CNC pack? F4 should come up to be level with the top of the wing seat. You can see it in this picture, just behind the captive nut for the wing bolt. BEB`s Build log. Right from page one. Kev`s build log. Right from page one. Darran`s build log. Right from page one. John`s build log. Right from page one. I have included a link to the other build log as well. Some different picture`s perspective, etc etc. Just ask away some one will have an answer for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi John, yes many of us have found F4 to be too tall and too narrow. The too tall bit you can fix by sanding away at the bottom to make it shorter - this will also slightly help your width problem! To fully address the width problem well take your pick from all the different solutions used in the various blogs - they all work just slightly different solutions. If you haven't already made up the tail piece then probably the simplest solution is to just make that a bit narrower. If you have then you might want to look at my solution which involved added "cheek pieces" to make the mounting part of the fuselage a bit wider. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted March 14, 2014 Share Posted March 14, 2014 Cutting the lattice pieces? I am doing the diagonal bits on the rear fuselage. Has anybody got any hints for cutting accurately. The best method I have found so far is to use half a razor blade suitably wrapped with masking tape. I try to hold the balsa in place and try to sight along the edges and attack with the blade. Of course, things can only be approximate as the wood is never in the right place until it is the right size (or too small). Has anyone got any better ideas? Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Many moons ago at the Sandown show I purchased a mini balsa guillotine and sander for the sum of £10.00 the pair. I used it very successfully on the Dawn Flyer build. Even if I did make a few errors to start with. It is the one on the left. Availiable from Proops Brothers. Half way down the page. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Ta Kevin, One is on order now. Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 Fake rib tapes? Yes/No ? Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted March 15, 2014 Share Posted March 15, 2014 I am very tempted with the rib tapes too but still on the fence! Might be too much but then again might be the finishing touch? I'm going to leave it a few days to think about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Manning Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Plummet, Our A&E departments are already stretched without cutting ourselves to bits with wobbly razor blades. Either: A/ Razor saw. or jewellers saw. B/ Large scalpel blade in the correct holder. C/ last resort, single edge razor blades which have a safe thick back to hold. The saw option is best because the wood is thick and fairly hard.and the saw handles allow you to see the cutting line. Best wishes JohnM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plummet Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 JohnM, Thanks for your concern. I have just come upstairs from my building cellar, and was about to post my opinions and experiences again, and I read your posting. I have been building the fin and rudder. I already have A/, both options. I have been using the razor saw for a lot of the cross cuts. I have assorted scalpel blades and handles, The scalpel has been my cutting tool of choice for ages. I do not have any of C/ Can you recommend a good supplier at sane money. I was going to report just how useful I have found the half razor blades that you are warning me off. With their assistance I have made, I think, a much tidier job of the vertical surfaces that I have usually done. I am not particularly dexterous. I need all the help that I can get in order to get pieces to fit tightly with no gaps. I have been told to cut slightly oversized, and to then sand away the extra. For this, I usually use permagrit files or block. I do find that I tend to produce curved surfaces when sanding. I had a lot of trouble trying to get accurate shapes into the ends of the fuselage cross bracing. Some of the diagonals need quite complicated cutting, and I am unsure of how to measure and mark the correct angles of some of these cuts. I am now keeping out of the way while the glue (alyphatic) dries. Plummet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share Posted March 16, 2014 Plummet - a tip to avoid getting "round ends" from sanding with a Permagrit block.... Place a block (about 1cm thick) on your building board (or any flat surface). Place the piece you sand on the block with the end you want to sand hanging over the edge. Then place your Permagrit block on the building board on its side. The block is very precisely at right angles so by just sliding it back and forth on the building board you have the vertical angle sorted. Now if you can slide it in straight line - not so difficult compared with "free-hand" sanding - you'll get a good square end. This is much easier to do than describe!! Here's picture to give you the general idea. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Fairgrieve Posted March 16, 2014 Share Posted March 16, 2014 Plummet. Trial and error got me most of my angles. Not all perfect, but good enough. The second tool on the right in my picture above shows a sanding tool. I must confess and say that this only gets used with a Permagrit. No rounded off ends. Again from Props Brothers. Top of the page. You could always make your own. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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