Rich too Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Posted by Peter Jenkins on 22/02/2014 19:34:09: Distraction! That's the biggest cause of incidents and accidents. Anything that disturbs your normal routine can cause you to get things out of sequence or forget to do something vital. Beware of DISTRACTION! How do I know? absolutely - I broke my usual routine. I usually just grab an hours flying, go and fly a tank full and then go home - being petrol I never usually need to refill. this time the flying was so good I wanted more!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeS Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Oh that's not good. My Pulse 25e also fly's very well and has had a good few crashes in its time and it has been repaired and now is multi-coloured lol. Mike Edited By MikeS on 23/02/2014 11:16:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted February 23, 2014 Author Share Posted February 23, 2014 on a positive note, I was trying plastic bolts on the u/c after numerous landings ended with ripped out u/c mounts - and the plastic bolts sheared leaving the mount completely in tact!!! haha!! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 The problem with most ARTF undercarriages is that A) the mount is not strong enough in the first place and B) the aluminium undercarriage has not backward flex and most of the loads are backwards on our models. On the Pulse that I just repaired for the club member I converted the undercarriage mount to the one that I use on most of my designs and used 6 SWG piano wire to make the legs. Even a really heavy thump on the edge of the runway didn't do any damage to the model. Oh! Bending 6 SWG wire needs a very big, solid vice and a heavy hammer!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 I bought the model from Peter. It wasn't really that dramatic just a twitchy rudder just goes to show the range on the old 35 meg radios. The model landed with no damage, only a snotty nose, mainly because Peter builds his models so light. We had another flight which was great, flies beautiful. Nice to buy direct too !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshua Henderson Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Hi rich Send me a PM. i may be able to help you out with the repair of the pulse. cheers Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 12/03/2014 22:49:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flite08 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Posted by Peter Miller on 22/02/2014 19:07:14: On the subject of your Pulse. If you buy R/C Model flyer next month there are all the details of how to build a new nose onto the model. I just did that for a new member. Just don't throw any bits away, You will need them for a pattern Looks repairable to me but then I'm a modeller as well as a flyer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Posted by Peter Miller on 22/02/2014 19:07:14: On the subject of your Pulse. If you buy R/C Model flyer next month there are all the details of how to build a new nose onto the model. I just did that for a new member. Just don't throw any bits away, You will need them for a pattern Pete, What issue is it? I have decided to repair it myself. Thanks. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 I finally got around to stripping the fuselage and surveying the damage..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 It is in the April isue which will be on the stands now. Yours looks well crunched. Piece all the bits of the sides together and use them as a pattern to cut new sides out. Don't bother with all the fretted out holes. You can even leave off the slots for the formers. Glue the formers into place and use triangular wood in the corners. The magazine will give you more ideas and also the conversion to a wire U/C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marsh Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 There's one for sale now in the classifieds right here. Buy it now!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Posted by Flite08 on 13/03/2014 15:24:10: Looks repairable to me but then I'm a modeller as well as a flyer So am I but having seen the extent of the damage on Rich's model I'd have burned it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marsh Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Suppose it's worth a go. Won't cost anything to try and although it may not looks as nice as before, is a good exercise to see it though. Years ago, I was given a smashed up Flair Edge 540 which had fell apart in the air. Was smashed basically to the tail, but repaired it ok and flew for years and flew it again a few weeks ago. didn't cost anything, apart from bits of wood and little covering. My repairs have included a bust p-51 brought back to life and the Edge. Edited By Paul Marsh on 23/03/2014 10:26:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Posted by Paul Marsh on 23/03/2014 09:48:23: There's one for sale now in the classifieds right here. Buy it now!!! Haha! That's a smaller one... Cheers Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Posted by Peter Miller on 23/03/2014 08:29:29: It is in the April isue which will be on the stands now. Yours looks well crunched. Piece all the bits of the sides together and use them as a pattern to cut new sides out. Don't bother with all the fretted out holes. You can even leave off the slots for the formers. Glue the formers into place and use triangular wood in the corners. The magazine will give you more ideas and also the conversion to a wire U/C. Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Posted by David Davis on 23/03/2014 10:11:15: Posted by Flite08 on 13/03/2014 15:24:10: Looks repairable to me but then I'm a modeller as well as a flyer So am I but having seen the extent of the damage on Rich's model I'd have burned it! I was tempted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marsh Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Might as well fix it. Doing that now, fixing issues on airframes: Broken SU31 from Black horse, almost fixed; new radiator unit for the Flair SE5a, new acetate canopy for a fun fly and it does on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 I had mixed feelings with respect to the reported incident. I am certainly not one who has never made a mistake, or that I have reached perfection. Yet cannot resist. I have a procedure(s) which i adhere to, wether electric or IC. I resist any temptation to deviate from this procedure, what ever has happened, or how convenient it may seem. With IC, I preferably tether the back end, the second option are stakes. I then switch on the Tx, followed by the rx, and so on. Others will have differing routines, such as Peter who apparently has a fixed starter, in his field box. So having delivered my lecture it must be my time to fall, if I had only followed my own advice and followed my procedure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Etheridge 1 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I would fix it as it is obvious the wings and tail are OK.. I would dig out some thin ply to repair the fuselage internally and assuming the fuselage structure is balsa I would cover the ply as necessary with sheet balsa. That reminds me I have yet to complete Phil's smashed Super Air but it's nearly done, I just need some Solar Film. Current projects include going backwards on building some aileron wings for my ancient Dave Boddington RM Trainer so I can use it to pass my long over due A certificate, and completion of a daft Great Planes YAK 55 that has been stuck in the loft fora few years. MJE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Well the Pulse is still in the loft - I probably should just bin it - if anyone wants it they are welcome! Anyway, the weather was too good to not go flying today and I had a blast with the Yak (if anyone wants a cheap 30cc sized plane I can highly recommend it), so much so that when I finally stopped flying I taxied back to my car rather too enthusiastically The Yak went straight into the restraints that I had set up and broke the only prop that I had left for the DLE 30 Edited By Rich2 on 06/08/2016 15:09:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 I buy these from the states pre-drilled because I don't fancy doing it - does anyone know any uk suppliers for pre-drilled xoar props? Another lesson learned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Sorry to hear that Rich, easily done. I use a prop jig to drill all my props and it is really not that difficult if you approach it methodically. It just means you don't have to wait for a delivery from the states and in the long run it's much cheaper. **LINK** Is the one you want for a DLE 30. Even better if you have a drill press which makes it more accurate. My drill press is a cheap Eastern bloc one, but it does the job. There are various sizes of jig depending on your engine. All you need to remember is not to have any holes on the hub that's directly along the blades as it weakens the prop. Hope that helps mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 Like this one Rich. **LINK** If you hunt around you might find one a bit cheaper. They don't have to be very sophisticated to do the job you want it for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 6, 2016 Author Share Posted August 6, 2016 Thanks Adrian, I appreciate that. I actually have a drill press from my dad (I've never used it!), but it's a job that I really do not want to do! Perhaps I should give it some more thought as I now have more motors with those hubs. I suppose that since I have a drill press there's really no excuse! Edited By Rich2 on 06/08/2016 15:53:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Bran Posted August 6, 2016 Share Posted August 6, 2016 I'm just surprised you are allowed to taxi back into the pits at all.................................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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