Mike Stevens Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 Eeek £13 delivery charge seems a bit steep again for a few bits of balsa even if that does include the blades........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Jones 7 Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 It only brings the price down if you happen to have all the bits from other projects. I'd have to buy in special. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted September 26, 2014 Share Posted September 26, 2014 I asked the Plans Service people to put some details on the Atom wood pack yesterday - clearly they're asleep. The set contain laser-cut wood parts, a fibre-glass head plate and pre-formed wire u/c. Edited By David Ashby - RCME on 26/09/2014 19:23:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stevens Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Been busy bashing Balsamart this morning to order some materials in and will have a rummage in my balsa box.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Here's mine in the making, just waiting for my motor & blades to be delivered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Hi , A quick question to those in the know . I noticed that Chris has mounted the head servos at the rear as opposed to the plan showing servo arms at the front of the mast and projecting through the cockpit . Is there any operational difference . P'S i bought some wood to make the blades only to discover it`s 5/16 and not 6mm Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Steve, I personally can not see any operational difference just the fact the battery will most probably need to be further forward to obtain the correct hang angle. I'm sure Rich will put you right. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted September 27, 2014 Author Share Posted September 27, 2014 Steve, I have mounted the servos on the front face so that the 2mm wire push rods are in tension when flying as the rotor disc will naturally want to tilt back in flight. If we used the same rods (to compliment the ball joints that come with the HK head) and moved the servos to the rear there is every chance they can compress from the loads exerted on them. It is just to keep things cheap and simple. But, like Chris in OZ has shown there is no reason why they cant be mounted at the rear. If they are they will have to be stiffened up to stop flexing, I would be very surprised if Chris's push rods are 2mm and would bet they are beefed up in. Hope this explains? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Jones Posted September 27, 2014 Share Posted September 27, 2014 Thanks Richard , Makes sense now , i May beef mine up by putting carbon tube over the rods, I think it looks better that way . Cheers Steve , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Prior to my build I discussed the position of the servos with Rich...and he gave his opinion. I looked around at my models to see what I have done over the years and I found that most had the servos pulling down from the rear, and they are also some of Rich's design. I used 2mm carbon rods on this build simply because they were in my hand at the time I have always considered that there is more chance of the rods bending when pushing" up" compared to pulling "up" because when pulling they are under tension compared to compression....but to be honest ,I don't think that any way is right or wrong for this model . but it did allow the servos to be mounted with out cutting holes in the canopy....and I do consider that to be a plus. When building a model from a plan I believe it is a matter of following the designers basic out line but then making such changes that suit ones particular preferences. Over the years I think I must have built just about all Rich's models....but always slight modifications.......and that what building is all about. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Hi, Can someone post a pic showing how you've attached your canopy please, Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted September 28, 2014 Author Share Posted September 28, 2014 Nigel, I have just seen the photo of your ATOM , very nice! I hope these photos explain how I secure my canopy? it is very simple. Added to the front flush with the fuselage side butted up against F4 is a piece of 6mm square balsa. Inserted into this is a piece of piano wire bent into a 'n' shape, this is pushed and glued into the 6mm square balsa. Inserted and glued into the balsa canopy base are two small magnets, these are off a burnt out brushless motor. They are positioned so that they lie over the piano wire in the fuselage. Along with the over hang of the canopy it simply locates itself with a snap as the magnets attach to the piano wire. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 28/09/2014 10:12:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Thanks Rich that's great, here's another photo of its progression first time I've made my own canopy & very pleased with the result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Dowell Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Nigel I simply used magnets set into the side of the canopy and matching ones in the side of the fuz.If you look closely at the pic you will see the square out line of the magnet at the centre bottom of the canopy. I also made the rear top of the canopy latch into the base of the pylon. Chris... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Model looking great Nigel My canopy method is also Magnets and using the canopy overlap of the fuselage and notch against the mast front. 2 magnets do it , even there are 3 in the hatch) with a nice positive 'snap' in place Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 That's great guys thanks, I know what I'm doing now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 Ok so my dilemma now is I can't find a C30 head anywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deyrick Gibbins Posted September 28, 2014 Share Posted September 28, 2014 If I cannot get one I have already looked at a way to make the pivots from 3 HK Nose Leg steering brackets and use a Crane Fly bearing assembly on the plate. I used 2 brackets for the Tail pivot on my Tricopter as per the build log and that works fine. Edited By Deyrick Gibbins on 28/09/2014 20:55:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deyrick Gibbins Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Have any of those built actually put any holes in front bulkhead to allow cooling air to the Battery / ESC. As per plan and pictures on thread I have seen no attempt at cooling at all. Fair enough in a low power application but virtually all Full fuselage Electric models need some sort of cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 Deyrick, It is wise to add cooling holes in any electric powered model, though mine has non I havent as yet had a problem and I abuse mine! Of course I do probably have 'natural' cooling from the gaps in my joints! I have managed to sift through some footage taken a couple of weekends ago. Here are a pair of ATOM's flying in formation and at the end some really close formation !!! Enjoy..... Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deyrick Gibbins Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Sounded and looked a little gusty. I am sure your gaps do not let that much air in either . Will start on mine shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Hi chaps, good to see all the Atoms coming together so well. I had a bit of a sort out in the workshop over the weekend and it is fair to say that I have enough projects lined up and on the go to see me through to at least 2016 and beyond! If I am honest with myself I will not get around to the Atom for a long time - if at all. As I thought would happen there seems to be a shortage of the C30 heads, so I will sell mine on for the cost I paid to get it from HK (£9.00) + whatever it costs to post it to you. Just message me and I will pop it in the post to you over the next few days. Best somebody gets some use from it rather than it sit in my 'new parts pending' box doing nothing when there are Atoms waiting to get in the air. Please note I am a non profit-making organisation Cheers, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Whiting 1 Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 Deyrick, I'm sure as Rich states he hasn't had a problem , and with that low wattage draw I can not see it problem , but on my higher wattage fixed wing models I do add cooling, but don't forget for efficient cooling you need an exit about 3 times the inlet area. Best of luck with your build, I start mine in November., that's my normal start for the winter period.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 My atom has no cooling holes in the fuselage to the esc, flights so far seem ok with things only getting slightly warm. I guess the low use of power to fly helps keep things cool.. I have however cut 3 10mm holes in the underside of the cowl to help airflow over the motor can... Steve Edited By Steve Jones 2 on 29/09/2014 20:05:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel simkin Posted September 29, 2014 Share Posted September 29, 2014 What length should the Cowel be, I've got the Turnigy SK 2826 motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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