Simon Hall 2 Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 My first flight as a total beginner ended in disaster with the ESC and battery being ripped out. I noticed the solder on the power joints had broken on the ESC. It still worked, so I taped it up and have not had any issues after 20+ flights. I would like to do a better repair, but not sure how and if it is worth it. I will post pics if needed . The ESC is an Eflite 30A brushless, used in a Parkzone Radian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Burton Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 It is not clear what you are describing but it sounds like you need to make a permanent repair or get a new ESC. It may just be a case of unsoldering the wires, tidying things up and soldering them back in place. I certainly do not like the idea of the solder "power joints" being broken and taped up. A picture would certainly help to give better advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Posted by Bob Burton on 18/10/2014 16:09:26: It is not clear what you are describing but it sounds like you need to make a permanent repair or get a new ESC. It may just be a case of unsoldering the wires, tidying things up and soldering them back in place. I certainly do not like the idea of the solder "power joints" being broken and taped up. A picture would certainly help to give better advice. Bob, sorry about the poor quality of the pic, but basically the red wire is the one that broke off. It did not completely come off, but was just hanging on by a small bit of solder.. It has lots of solder on it, but the whole thing is sandwiched inside the plastic casing so looks difficult to get to for any kind of repair. The only thing I could think of at the time was to wrap the whole thing tight with clear packing tape at the end where it broke off. Edited By Simon Hall 2 on 18/10/2014 16:44:28 Edited By Simon Hall 2 on 18/10/2014 16:51:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Burton Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 OUCH ! That certainly needs fixing properly. You are going to have to bite the bullet and take it apart to get to the terminal to ascertain the real level of damage, such as whether the PCB track has lifted or broken, then tidy up and solder it back in place. If that involves destroying the plastic case of the ESC then so be it. Heatshrink tubing can be used to replace the case when the repair is finished. Personally I would not fly with a motor connection held in place with sticky tape. Trust me, it will come apart in the air at some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 I would attempt a permanent repair with the knowledge that I may end up in a worse place than I started from... ie going from a taped up ESC that WILL fail at some point to an ESC that I have ruined! But as it looks like the weather is going to ground us all for a few days..... You would have the back up of ordering a replacement ESC from Hobbyking.... but do make sure you order from the UK Warehouse if possible it can take ages to arrive from the Global Warehouse.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 If you're not happy doing the job properly, you could encase the loose terminal in epoxy. Worst case scenario is the motor stops - something an IC pilot has to learn to deal with and hopefully not too big a deal with a Radian anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 You might be able to get in there & repair it Simon....split the plastic & see what happens...if you can get access you may well be able to re-solder the wire but be careful...'s not easy to fit the heavy gauge wires to the pcb without applying quite a bit of heat...heat that can kill other surrounding components. You'll be no worse off if you can't as I suspect the joint will soon fail if left untouched rendering the ESC as dead as a very dead thing. If you can fix it then a short length of heatshrink will replace the plastic outer & bring it back to a useable state.....if not then I guess you'll have to replace it & chalk up the ESC as a casualty of the crash. Personally I wouldn't continue to use it as it is.....either fix it or replace it. From the pic it looks like a 30-40A unit? these are available for not much money from HK....see here A budget ESC should be fine in this application Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 The main worrying thing seems to be that it's actually pulled away quite a chunk of the surrounding area of PCB around the large solder joint. I don't feel confident going in with the soldering iron, I reckon I will make it worse. The epoxy idea sounds worth a try. If it works and later fails in flight, as said above with it being a Radian, I think I have a very good chance of bringing her down in one piece. I never go down wind much anyway, especially down low being a beginner. I think I will buy the Turnigy ESC as a backup as suggested. What real world difference is there with this one compared to the Eflite 30A I already have? Thanks for all the great help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 hello Simon-why risk loosing your model and damaging more of your gear-sling it and replace it with a sound/new one......they are a reasonable price....peace of mind etc.... ken Anderson .ne.....1 peace of mind dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 From what you've described, Simon, I would say the only place for that ESC is the bin If you're relying on the BEC for radio/servo power, you'll lose the lot it if fails in the air. The Turnigy Plush range, aka Hobbywing Pentium/Fentium/Flyfun, as suggested by Steve above, is a good reliable replacement for the E-Flite and they costs rather less. You can get a 30A for about £8 from the UK Warehouse. The 40A, also available there, isn't a lot more. I don't know how many amps the Radian setup draws but I'd say the 30A will be fine. You shouldn't notice any difference between the ESCs. You'll just need to 'teach' the ESC the throttle settings when you install it - instructions are supplied or ask here... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Snap, Ken! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Continuing to fly with that ESC with a damaged PCB is quite a high risk option, if it fails in flight any/all of the following could happen: 1) Loss of motor 2) Loss of Radio Control 3) Shorting out and a fire risk The Air Navigation Order required the pilot to be sure he can make the flight in safety - could you honestly answer yes with a dodgy ESC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 That's it, it's definitely going in the bin now! I will stop being a cheapskate. I probably won't be flying until a new one arrives anyway due to the weather. I am placing the order today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Posted by Simon Hall 2 on 19/10/2014 11:24:50: That's it, it's definitely going in the bin now! I will stop being a cheapskate. I probably won't be flying until a new one arrives anyway due to the weather. I am placing the order today. Order a new one, but have a bash at repairing it, nothing to loose and you may end up with two working ESC and it will be a good learning experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Sorry, but just to be clear on a couple of things before I order today. Will the connectors be the same, should I go for the 30 or 40a version and why are these ESC's so cheap compared to the one I have? Here are the specs of the one I have. Sorry I can't add the link properly, I am using my phone. http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLA1030B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Simples, park zone spares are ferociously expensive! It may not have the correct connectors fitted, either change them or in some cases they supply them with different connector options. Remember that the ESC is probably made with lead free solder, you cannot successfully mix lead-free and leaded solder, so make sure you use the correct stuff. If you want to attempt a repair pull back the sleeving and de-solder the wire. If the track is detached it may possible to glue it back down before re-soldering and protecting with epoxy. If you don't destroy it completely but are not happy to fly with it it may be suitable for bench testing motors, just be sure to label it "not for flight". Shaunie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 The Plush, like most after-market ESCs, won't have any connectors supplied. I don't have a Radian but I expect the three motor wires will used 3.0 or 3.5mm bullet connectors and the battery connector should be an EC3 male. Packs of those are obtainable at HK. Your soldering career is about to take an upward step... Never having used an E-Flite ESC, I don't know how much better, if at all, they perform. The Pentium/Plush have been fine throughout my leccy history, so I've never felt the need to go for the top of the range, or manufacturer's specified product. It's a bit like having your tyres replaced at a car main dealer rather than Quik-Fit - they'll screw a lot more out of you.... It's much down to personal choice and whether you'd rather stay with the OEM items. Many of us won't be able to tell the difference in performance, of that I'm sure. Just a thought - the Plush 30A has a linear BEC (the 40A is switching). How many servos are you running on the Radian? The linear BEC should be fine if it's just four but if you've got flaps, I'd go for the 40A and, preferably a separate UBEC. I don't want to complicate things though, so if you've a question about that, come back when you're ready. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Only 2 servos, just a basic, standard Radian.I don't mind getting out the soldering iron, but I just have no clue about ESC's, their specs or fittings between different manufacturers. Glad you mentioned that I need to buy connectors as I would not have known. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Be afraid, be very afraid you are about to enter the infuriating world called "The Electric Flight Connector Maze"! - it gets even worse when you start getting extra batteries.... I have ended up with a collection of adaptors! Why they cant all use the same "*$&%* Connector is beyond me but they dont! Most ESC's I have had come with no connector fitted but with bullet connectors in a bag, some will no doubt frown here bit I have in the past use a simple mains electrical "chocolate block" connector strip to connect up motor and ESC for ESC of 40 Amp or below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Burton Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Posted by Shaunie on 19/10/2014 15:48:34: Remember that the ESC is probably made with lead free solder, you cannot successfully mix lead-free and leaded solder Shaunie. Is this really so ? I regularly remove existing solder when repairing things because I hate lead free, but by no means all of it, and then use real solder to make the new joint. As far as I can tell this works OK. Is your experience different ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Hall 2 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Sorry, off topic but just realised I have reached 100 posts! I think this new RC flying hobby might stick after all! Thanks to you all for your kind help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Posted by Dave Hopkin on 18/10/2014 17:57 But as it looks like the weather is going to ground us all for a few days..... You would have the back up of ordering a replacement ESC from Hobbyking.... but do make sure you order from the UK Warehouse if possible it can take ages to arrive from the Global Warehouse.... Select UK Direct Channel when ordering from the Global Warehouse. Stuff coming through in around 10 days now and all taxes are paid, so no surprises. Courier to UK then Royal Mail to your door - works very well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Posted by Bob Burton on 19/10/2014 16:21:06: Posted by Shaunie on 19/10/2014 15:48:34: Remember that the ESC is probably made with lead free solder, you cannot successfully mix lead-free and leaded solder Shaunie. Is this really so ? I regularly remove existing solder when repairing things because I hate lead free, but by no means all of it, and then use real solder to make the new joint. As far as I can tell this works OK. Is your experience different ? I also use my old supply of real solder on everything from pcb mounted components to lipo connectors etc. Been doing it since pre-brushless day, never had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil_G Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Posted by Shaunie on 19/10/2014 15:48:34: Remember that the ESC is probably made with lead free solder, you cannot successfully mix lead-free and leaded solder, For smt reflow repairs I would agree, but for hand soldering typical joints found in R/C its not a problem. Clean off as much of the lead-free as you can, make sure the joint is wet and be doubly sure to keep the mixed joint perfectly still until the solder has solidified, a mix will take slightly longer and will have a 'sludgy' state before setting. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I feel that as long as you remove all traces of solder with a solder sucker or desoldering braid you will go OK but if you just "top up" the solder with the wrong sort then it is possible to create some unfavorable alloys which may fail in the not to distant future. Given the choice it.s leaded for me every time as it is less brittle.. Shaunie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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