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Electric Sea Fury


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  • 3 weeks later...
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Well managed a quick 2.5 minutes in the garage...................

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9545_(Large).JPG

The cowl was shortened by 60mm
http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9547_(Large).JPG

Much better proportions, and increases air outlet size
http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9549_(Large).JPG

scrap bits of grey solarfilm used to cover model joints, though the paint covered so well could have used another color
http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9546_(Large).JPG

Warbird colours from Phil Clarke of Fighteraces, great paint, need a bit more practice with it, but initial results are great.Will let the paint harden for a day then mask for the extra dark sea grey.Amazing what you can do in 2.5 minutes

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yep scotchbrited til completely matt. I left some normal masking tape on the underneath of the wing for 24 hours as a test then peeled it off, no paint lifted, so it looks like the stuff sticks to the proverbial You said it brushed well? well it sprays just as good as anything I have used  It flashes off quick so whatever you do set the biggest loudest alrm clock to 30 mins and clean the gun BEFORE the timer goes off. The stuff sets rock hard and is difficult to shift even with celly thinners.

I have been scouring the web for a 3/4 length 1/7 th pilot and I just cannot find anything I have ordered the same guy as you have, will put the cockpit floor back in and sit him on that. Shame cos if you remove the floor there is nothing restricting a full depth cockpit

Maybe I am losing the plot...... see I told you, you mustn't get attached, then you are afraid to fly em LOLOL

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The paint ,even using a car touch up gun didn't really go everywhere and covers really well. The paint comes in little half pint pots (about £7 each I think) I used a third of the Duck egg, and about a quarter of the extra dark sea grey. bring it over and we will give it the works

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this model is screaming from the rooftops do me A123 electric, the cells are a perfect fit.

I have added a high voltage UBEC to provide power to the retract servo, just in case. The switch on the bulkhead is for the UBEC on/off, I will leave it on I think, so when I arm the ESC the UBEC kicks in

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9553_(Large).JPG

Don't get the wrong idea here that my installations are neat this is an exception

Clear prop, Contact!

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PS trying to talk Chris B into doing his WJ231 115 the Yeovilton one, this one is WJ232 114 the Australian one, same as Shauns.

Two of these flying low passes at the Greenacres electric bash on August 16 and 17th should be awesome.

So far confirmed to be coming using A123 are:

BIG B-17 on 20 cells, 5 per motor.

Spit MkIX on on 12 cells

2 x fury's on 8 cells

Hurricane on 12 cells

as well as several more big warbirds on a variety of other cell types including hopefully an 11 foot Lanc.

Anymore warbirds want to come and play with us at Aldridge?

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Those are just the warbirds

There's also a couple of DB Moths, some pattern and 3D stuff. And a Wot4, a largish Tayporcraft and who knows what CM might dust off??   All on A123's.  And plenty of little stuff on LiPo's. And Bob P's Spit with the sound system and anything else he bings...

Does anyone have connections to order some more weather like we had last weekend?
What a cracking event we had   Greenacres/YT Funfly July 2008

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Here comes another one

Danny is right when he says this is the easiest kit ever to build. (of its type).
And it seems sooooo designed around electrics. Especially with our A123 Packs, but would suit Lipos well too.

Heres some pics of this afternoons work. Surfaces hinged, Elevators joined (thats a mod), Tail feathers glued on. Motor and ESC mounted, and the big job, retracts fitted and working.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/32446/S6000871.JPG

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/32446/motormounted.jpg

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Thanks Shaun thats brilliant, I didn't realise the history of that Fury WJ232 and those photos have me convinced that it can remain un NATO'd

 Just finished of the canopy attachment tonight. Still needs "Hoagie" so have made the canopy removable for when I find one. (And bribe Shaun into painting it)

decals are on and it does look nice.

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Looking good!

I used evergreen tubing (scratch modellers use it, it's styrene the same as Airfix kits), and thin litho plate as the heat shield. Doesn't weigh very much at all. Is your tail wheel further forward than the instructions say?

When "Hoagie" arrives, chuck him over.

BTW the big "O" on the tail fin, means she is from the air wing of HMS Ocean.

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Thanks Shaun.

Yes you already told me the styrene you used lol I bought some and have it cut just not glued it yet. Yes the tailwheel is further forward, a short length of carbon tube epoxied into a hole bored through the underside block, then a length of piano wire bent to suit. It could be linked to the rudder, but I left it to castor. I have some lith plate, though may use alu tape, will see how the tape looks, if thats pants then i will resort to lith.

Thanks for the offer on doing Hoagie's make-up, I might try and talk Chris into the mission his pilots look good too, if he can't be co-erced then i will be back to you thanks for that

Cheers

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Have sorted out the charging and arming system without removing any cowling. For an ocasional balance then the cowl will have to come off, but that as a rule is only every half dozen charges, certainly not at the field but in the workshop

I know the safety conscious Timbo will have a go at me for using two female 2mm connectors for charging, obviously I could get them around the wrong way, but the charger will sort that if I really am that daft!!

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_9575_(Large).JPG



You can just see the deans connector on top of the fus, this ahs a small pice of bent piano wire sooldered to both short out the two deans pins and to act as a handle to withraw the shortng plug from within the opening in the cowl

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