PeterF Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 Manish, Yes, I forgot to mention the hand grips, these were milled out from solid aluminium block. Machined a recess around the backside to create the mounting flange, then put it into the mill the other way around and cut out the hand slot with a ball end mill. Here is a close up photo. I did not take any before they were glued in. The rods on the controls are just styrene. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 Thanks Peter, I will beat out some from litho sheet. I did make some but they appear too small so will make larger ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Made this today. Spring will be bolted to top and the bottom piece will be soldered on and then the assembly painted. What is the the considered opinion about best method to get the scale that needs to be affixed to the bottom of the ASI? Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 25/05/2017 14:23:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 The figures were just too small to put up n...so I ignored them. No one has noticed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 Manish, I hope you have calibrated the spring so that it is accurate. For this sort of thing I have laser printed onto adhesive vinyl previously. I have bought the sheets of printable self adhesive vinyl sheets from ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Oh dear Peter, now that you mention it, I will have to really calibrate the spring and the scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Peter I managed to hook up my ailerons closed loop and run into a problem. While I am getting the desired throw on either side, the aileron do not return to neutral. I have tried the following 1. Tightening and loosening the cables to vary the tension and see if it works 2. Loosening the idler bar to ensure that it is not binding But despite these there was no improvement. Could you take a look a the video and see if you can spot that is causing the issue Edited By Manish Chandrayan on 19/06/2017 11:57:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 If the nylon horn is the servo horn then it looks like the servo is not centering. What servo are you using ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 The crank that sticks out of the fuse bottom is 2mm G 10 sheet and runs on on brass tube bearing on 4mm bolt. The crank is operated by servo. The servo being used is KST 125 mg with 97 Oz torque **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 Manish,I am with engine doctor on this one, the servo may not be centering properly. Is there any slop in the connection from servo arm to the crank, is the crank pivot sticky or very loose, is the crank in perfect alignment with the servo output arm. Is the crank pivot in line with the axis of the servo output arm. Is the position of the servo output to the crank sufficiently far from the pivot to get a full range of movement on the servo output arm. Finally, I am not sure that the servo is robust enough, it claims high torque, but it is still a mini servo the plane was designed to have one of these for each wing. Now you have one servo for both wings plus a complex multi stage scale rendition. I will check my servo specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 19, 2017 Author Share Posted June 19, 2017 My aileron servo is a Hitec HS-7955TG and running on 6.0V as my plane is set up for produces up to 333oz.in. of torque. I have also set the crank and output arm geometry to give maximum servo arm rotation which maximises leverage and minimises servo torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Posted by PeterF on 23/05/2016 22:04:36: Here is a video of the ailerons all working very nicely if I may say so myself. The down going action is pretty close to full scale I believe, perhaps it does not quite return to neutral, but I can live with that. To try and make it return to neutral would require me to strip down th gear boxes and change the flats filed onto the shafts, and I am not planning on doing that now everything is so good. The up going movement is 2.5" which is 25% of full scale and the down going is about 3/4", which again is scale. Peter I see that even your ailerons do not return to neutral, what do you think is the cause? And if you do not fix that, will it not affect the flying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted June 21, 2017 Author Share Posted June 21, 2017 I had not noticed that they were a tiny bit out. Will keep it in mind when I put it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 5 months since I last put some time into the Moth, partly due to work commitments and holidays and more recently a downturn at work and the offer of an early retirement package. I now have more time to put into getting this plane finished. To make a start I have covered the tail plane, elevators, fin and rudder. I am covering with natural Solartex and that has gone on well. For the rib stitching I have used the products from "Scale Rib Stitch" of Canada (Click). This is a very thin and sticky tape with thread attached at intervals to the glued side. I have tapes with the threads at 1/2" and 3/4" spacing at 1/4 scale for 2" and 3" stitching pitch at full scale. The tapes are about 2" wide and you slit them down to the width you need, tease the backing layer off and glue them down over the ribs. A thin coating of ClearCoat is then applied to make sure that everything adheres well on the next step. For the tapes I am using Mick Reeves Models laser cut tapes (click) of the correct number of pinks per inch cut from natural Solartex. These get ironed down over the stitching and the ClearCoat holds everything together. The sheets of pinked tapes come with some wider tapes for finishing the circumference of the components. Scale Rib Stitch tapes Mick Reeves Models pinked tapes Rib Stitching added plus ClearCoat Pinked tape added to ribs Close up of completed rib covering Close up of edging tape Completed tail plane and elevators Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Looking nice, good to see you back on the build. I used the same rib stitches but got them all in the same pitch My pinked tapes and peri tapes were bought from pink-it as I found the serrated edges cleaner when compared to Mick's tapes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propogandhi Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Hi Peter. I've been watching your progress for some time on and off and seen lots of great idea's that I'll carry across into my 1/4 Stampe restoration. But I was wondering, do you have a link for where you got the U/C from on your TM? I found the site 'falcon-aviation' but could not find the U/C nor the TM kit for that matter. Regards, prop Edited By propogandhi on 10/12/2017 21:03:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 Prop, The kit was from Falcon Models NOT Falcon Aviation. Unluckily, Falcon Models stopped trading some time ago. I do not know if the Flair Models undercarriage kit is still available. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 There was talk of Flair Models re-kitting some of its models. The website is still running with a number to contact the office. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
propogandhi Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Hi gents, Well that is a shame, and I've contacted Flair and they say they are no longer able to produce the U/C for the TM. Does anybody have an U/C they want to sell? prop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Or a drawing and some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 You might find a unicorn first.... They have been off the shelves for several years. I managed to find one 3 years ago but had to supply my own springs. I may have the non scale drawings somewhere. ECOMRC and Phoenix models did produce a Tiggy,, there may be u/c spares somewhere. Edited By cymaz on 10/12/2017 22:19:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Have you tried contacting Chris from Falcon Models? He may be able to supply the undercarriage or ok for the drawings to be shared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 CYMAZ ECOMRC U/c are just wires and the Phoenix one to me looks like a diseased variety. Hideous is the word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 Posted by Manish Chandrayan on 11/12/2017 04:46:28: CYMAZ ECOMRC U/c are just wires and the Phoenix one to me looks like a diseased variety. Hideous is the word. I know, just clutching at straws. Otherwise, you could post on BMFA Facebook page or the UK-RC-Flyers for sale or wanted. Ken King of King Designs might help. Engineering apprentices at your local college might take it on as a project. Edited By cymaz on 11/12/2017 06:29:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I forgot about these people. Might be worth an email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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