Stumps Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Daft question re snakes… I’ve been modelling for a number of years, but in all that time I have never used snakes for control runs. For my current project I’m using Gold-N-Rods by Sullivan. So, I’m after any tips on how to screw the threaded rod into the yellow inner cable. So far, I’ve immersed one end in to hot water which has allowed me to screw the rod in, but is there a better way of achieving this? Regards Stumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrman Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Put two nuts on the threaded rod, lock them together. Thread rod into snake using the nuts, undo nuts- job done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Ensure you have the correct threaded rod - I think that Sullivan are not the same as SLEC etc. One is a loose fit in the other make, the other way around it would be too tight. I cannot remember which is smaller but it is dangerous because it might pull out. If you have the proper short threaded ends then inserting them is easy if you get a metal clevis and bend the arms out to form a handle, screw it onto the threaded bit and then insert a bolt from the other end to jam it. The arms give you some leverage to twist the threaded insert into the snake inner. When it's inserted far enough slacken the jamming bolt to unscrew the clevis. Just finger tightening works on the jamming bolt but actually I increased the head size with some solder. Keep the tool for next time - obviously dont straighten the clevis to use it! Edited By kc on 24/12/2015 11:44:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Ogden Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 I usually put the threaded adaptor in a hand-drill and if necessary, hold the snake outer in a pair of pliers. Works every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model Monster Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 I use a cordless screw driver. Put the threaded rod in the chuck of the drill, then hold the snake inner in one hand,near the end and use the drill on a slow speed to screw it in. Watch for the snake starting to twist and then back the rod out and in, as required. This also works for plastic / nylon clevises and ball-links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Lee Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 as per JRMan....and make sure you only use the clevises supplied by Sullivan, which have an Imperial thread. I found to my cost that 2mm links superficially fit but will pull off under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Posted by John Lee on 24/12/2015 11:51:48: as per JRMan....and make sure you only use the clevises supplied by Sullivan, which have an Imperial thread. I found to my cost that 2mm links superficially fit but will pull off under load. That's why I usually throw away any hardware supplied in kits originating in the US and replace it with all metric parts. Fortunately kits with what the US sometimes call 'English' threads are becoming rarer as those manufactured in China etc are metric based. A pity really as the quality is usually excellent but the risk is too high. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 I usually wrap some masking tape round the end of the threaded rod, to protect the thread, then grip lightly in a pair of pliers and wind it into the snake inner jrman's method sounds good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Privett Posted December 24, 2015 Share Posted December 24, 2015 Posted by John Lee on 24/12/2015 11:51:48: as per JRMan....and make sure you only use the clevises supplied by Sullivan, which have an Imperial thread. I found to my cost that 2mm links superficially fit but will pull off under load. Just to stress this point again... the 2/56 and 2mm threaded rods are quite similar and could be accidentally interchanged - and appear to work, at least until some load is applied! So be careful. And just to confuse things slightly further, it seems from the sullivan website that they've now joined the rest of the world and produce 2mm rods as well as the American 2/56 threaded rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumps Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thanks to everyone for all of the replies above. I'll try some off them out and see how I get on. regards Stumps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I take my studding, put in in an electric drill and screw it in that way. So much easier. 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 Posted by John Privett on 24/12/2015 13:48:39: Posted by John Lee on 24/12/2015 11:51:48: as per JRMan....and make sure you only use the clevises supplied by Sullivan, which have an Imperial thread. I found to my cost that 2mm links superficially fit but will pull off under load. Just to stress this point again... the 2/56 and 2mm threaded rods are quite similar and could be accidentally interchanged - and appear to work, at least until some load is applied! So be careful. And just to confuse things slightly further, it seems from the sullivan website that they've now joined the rest of the world and produce 2mm rods as well as the American 2/56 threaded rods. At least they appear to be colour coding the metric ones with white inners... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 I've had both 2mm and 2-56 fittings with grey snake inners, the only indicator I've seen is that the labels identify the fittings included, eg "#575 BLUE/GREY 36" 2 Sets 2mm". I don't trust Sullivan clevises, I've had several where the pin isn't riveted in place, just floating free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumps Posted December 30, 2015 Author Share Posted December 30, 2015 The really good thing is that this is the first and only time I've used snakes ~ so all the fitting etc. are the correct 2-56 Sullivan stuff. I did once witness the outcome of incorrectly matched threads... wasn't pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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