AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Well, here we go... Mine is a classic dancer, which means that no amps will run through her veins. I will go for the classic glow power, although I still have to decide which one (SC/ASP 36 being the most likely). I've started the building tonight, and I've started with the tail group, quite unusual at least for me, but I have some 65 grams to beat... Before posting any pic, I need to apologize for the quality, I've taken them with the mobile, in poor light conditions and when I was already a bit tired (some minutes ago to be precise). Anyway, some photos to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 I said I'd make a built up tail, and I posted some pics of how I planned to do, but since then, and thanks to Peter Miller's advices, I changed slightly my initial proposal, to make it stronger and (hopefully) lighter. The stab will have a laminated leading edge that will go around all the structure. To that end, the first thing I did was the jig. Not too precise but it doesn't haver to be... I made the jig a couple of weeks ago, and it's been waiting since to receive the lamination. I have used four 1/16 strips, which will end in a 1/4 l.e. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Detail of lamination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Now the strips must wait until tomorrow for the PVA and the water to dry properly. In the meantime, I started with the fin and rudder. The le is made from 1/4 sheet, and includes the upper support triangle. This way the structure should be more solid (I think...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 For some reason, I can't post more than one picture in each post... Anyway, below is a detail of a reinforce I've placed in both the le and the te. It's a piece of 1/8 that is placed after the cross braces. This way, they "embrace" the cross pieces and at the same time, they will gibe a bit more body" to the le Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 And the fin is finished. Nice and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Now, let's tackle the rudder. The LE is again 1/4 sq, but the TE is 1/8 sheet, so I used 1/16 shims to lift it to the right height. This will make easier later on to shape the rudder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 The TE is also the upper reinforce (all cut from 1/8 sheet). I made a slot in the LE to accommodate this piece, and also the solid lower part, made of 1/4 sheet, has a slot to receive the TE post end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 And the parts are coming together easily. The cross braces are made of 1/4 sq, but they have a 1/8 slot in the middle of the section. This slot receives the TE, so when the sanding phase arrives, again it will be easier to sand the rudder to a nice section. This system also gives more contact surface between the cross braces and the TE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 And here we've got the fin-ruder group, ready for sanding (I couldn't help unpinning them tonight...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks Wolston! I still haven't decided the finishing. I may go for a classic straight lines aerobatic, with lots of sponsors' stickers, or maybe I'll do something along the lines of the PC7 of the "Patrouille Martini" ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hello AVC, Just subscribed to your build treat. ... sheesh... you've almost finished the tailplanes and I'm still contemplating (studying?) Peter's drawings. . Allow me a question, please: concerning the top part of the rudder (the one that goes into the LE's slot), should the balsa grain not be 'horizontal' for that part? Happy glueing Chris Brussels, Belgium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Looks good AVC, I went a bit heavier on the tail leading edge I used 4 x 1/8 strips, I've an habit of carrying models by the tail John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi Chris, thanks! I'm subscribed to yours as well, I'm really looking forward to see how this HD comes to life! Regarding your question, I had to find a middle ground here: if I wanted the LE and the top of the rudder being the same part, and considering the length of the LE, the top part would not enter in the "width" of a standard 4" sheet. I could glue two or three pieces together and then cut the LE, but in the end I would have two or three joints in the final part. Also, with the horizontal grain I would have a weak point where the top part "meets" the LE. On the other hand, the diagonal brace that goes under this top part would ensure (I hope...) that the group is strong enough. Thanks for your comment! Edited By AVC on 31/12/2015 10:14:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi John, thanks I've used 1/4 sq + 1/8 sheet in the fin, and I'll probably do the same for the stab. I believe that 1/4 sq should be enough (so long as you don't have the habit of carrying models by the tail ), but just for peace of mind I'll add these little strips behind the LE in the stab. I haven't seen any picture of your building so far, c'mon we want top see thousands of photos!! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi AVC, great start and neat work! Can you say a little bit about how you did the lamination? I'm sure new builders would be interested in how that's done. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Not started gluing yet AVC, will start later today John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi BEB, thanks for your comments. The lamination is probably the best creation since the sliced bread , and it's dead easy to do, as long as you don't try to rush it. For this one, I cut some strips out of a 1/16 sheet, a bit wider than 1/4 to allow for sanding and matching afterward. I only needed 4 but just in case I cut a couple of spare ones. The I put it in hot water (in the bath) with a bit, just a tiny bit, of soap (bath gel would also work), and I left the strips there for around 24 hours. It seems a long time considering the balsa wood is quite porous and it should soak quite quickly, but that's not quite right. It takes a lot of hours for the water to really get's into all the wood. When the strips are ready (you'll know because you can almost bend them as if it was made of rubber), I take the first one strip, drip it between the finger, and bend it around the jig. In this case, I placed some pins in the working bench to trap the ends, so that the strip "embraced" all the jig. The jig is pinned to the board, btw Then I took the second one, dripped it again, applied a good amount of PVA, bend it around the first strip, and place some additional pins on the other side so that all the assembly gets pressed between the jig and the pins. The third strip follows the same process, removing the pins and replacing them again as you go. And so on... Some care points are: - Ensure that the jig is well protected to avoid the lamination gluing to it. It sounds stupid but the amount of PVA used can "travel" a good way into the jig. In my case, I cover all the jig with transparent kitchen foil. -When placing the strips, don't try to rush things up; take your time to bend the strips around the jig / assembly, and apply pressure on the strip at every single millimeter, don't just pin one end and bend the other end. - Use a lot of glue. I prefer PVA because is easy to sand and its thinner is water, which makes a good combination with the soaked strips to promote access to the glue to every single fiber in the wood. - Allow 24 hour at least for the assembly to cure, don't try to unpin it before or you will end with a bunch of useless wood. And that's everything. I really encourage the newbies to try it, starting with some scrap just to taste it before applying to a real model. But once you've discovered and (sort of) mastered, you'll love it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Posted by john stones 1 on 31/12/2015 10:21:41: Not started gluing yet AVC, will start later today John Ok, happy gluing then, as Chris said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Hi AVC, Thanks for your answer to my question & certainly for your 'lamination' tutorial. Happy laminating to all. Chris Brussels, Belgium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks for that AVC. I was particularly interested to hear what you added to the water. For years I was told it had to be ammonia - which stinks and gets you into trouble with SWMBO. Then someone mentioned soap and it only only works - but possibly works better! I assume that the soap is acting as a wetting agent? I enjoy laminating. Its one of those deliciously messy jobs that looks absolute rubbish while you're doing it! You're convinced it all just going to be a mess, and then,.....the next day you half-heartedly unpin it all and, hey presto! a beautifully curved laminated structure and you think why did I ever doubt! BEB Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 31/12/2015 11:17:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 I'm doing a built-up tail as well but I never thought of laminating the leading edge, so thanks for that. I've done several laminated parts in the past, the first was my old Lazy Bee and the most recent the hardwood gunwales on my Thames sailing barge which had to curve in two directions. I think I may extend the laminations to the elevator and rudder trailing edges. I'm about to start on the tail which isn't my usual sequence. I was short of some wood and ordered it on line a couple of evenings ago. To my surprise it arrived this morning. Well done SLEC, one of my favourite suppliers. (and the postal service, too, of course). Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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