john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Ah little jigging gussets, I never caught on with the picture above, very good John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Thanks John for your comments, the pic is not very good, I must admit.Even if the purpose of the gussets is to increase the glueing area and reinforce, I love the look of a balsa join with thin ply gussets... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 That's looking very light AVC! Is the fuselage thinner at the rear than the plan too? Looks like one of those light weight indoor planes at the moment! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I once build a fuselage with 1/64" ply gussets like that. Abandoned it for various reasons and tried to break it up. It was almost indestructable.. I was smashing it onthe bench with all my strength and it just didn't break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Thanks Chris. The outline is just as per the plan. I'll use the "curvy" part of the former, with 1/4 Sq crossbraces underneath, so the final shape should be pretty similar to the original one.And yes, it's quite light for the moment although it will put some weight after adding the ply doublers at front and rear.All in all I expect to achieve a quite light but sound structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Indeed Peter, it's amazing how these tiny things can strength the structure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Hi AVC, That's a real nice fuselage you have there. I just love the look of your ply gussets as well. Espléndido... Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR Gussets Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Merci Chris ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 So, here we go again with the weekly report. And this time we start with the postman...He delivered the engine at home last Friday. I've never tried one of those before, although being made by the same manufacturer as ASP/SC/Magnum, I assume they must be pretty similar. I bought this one because, for the same size and weight of a typical 36, you have a whole 40. I also like the blue details, let's be honest... In the instructions there's no mention whatsoever to the break in process (other than the size of the prop) so I'll do a typical ABC break in. If anyone has experience with Evolution glow, I would appreciate comments / advices. My only experience with EVOLUTION engines is this one below: Edited By AVC on 08/02/2016 07:14:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 To fit the engine on sidewinder position I would need to make a tunnel for the muffler, but I don't fancy doing it, so the other options are upright, 45 degrees, or maybe 315 degrees. I still haven't decides which one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 And now, let's focus on the building. Last weekend I closed the shift with the sides completed. The first task this week was to make the doublers, in ply 1mm. These are glued to the outside, both at the front and the rear This is the one at the front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 For the rear of the fuse, besides the doublers, I added an infill of 1/8 sheet, in case I needed some "meat" to place the servos (I still don't know where will I place them...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 And here we have the two sides with the doublers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Then I glued the formers to one side. My Ballerina will have only four complete formers: F1, F2, F4 and F6. The remaining will be only the top (curvy) part of the formers, and some cross braces underneath. Here are the formers ready to glue. F2 has a double on the front side for the wing dowel. I also will center the dowel using an additional piece of 1mm ply. Because I haven't decided where the servos will go, I don't bother about holes for snakes: I opened a "window" in F6 so I can route whatever is needed (servo wires, snake or pull-pull wire) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 And here's F1 glued in place. Because F1 and F2 are supported by triangular balsa, I can easily achieve the 90 degrees while gluing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 For F4 and F6 formers, I simply cut some triangular balsa scrap pieces. These will be tack glued with a drop of cyano while the epoxy cures. They then are removed and they don't leave almost any mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 On Monday morning I though I could go and have a quick fly with the Can Doo, or maybe maiden the Kloud Rider in a little hill near home. My hopes went away when, after breakfast, I checked the wind and we had around 20 mph, with gusts of 35... So, back to the workshop, to glue the two sides together. The tail is not glued yet at this stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 And then finally, Monday evening, the tail was glued, using a calculated "datum" and special jigs for that purpose... The "datum", aligned with the mid point of F2 and F6 And now, the very special jig... The sides are slightly sanded on the inside, to increase the contact area. The cello tape is to stop epoxy dropping and curing on the down side of the fuse, creating a bump in the area where the tail wheel support should fit... Edited By AVC on 08/02/2016 09:06:51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 I really like your approach, AVC. Maybe one day I'll have to risk myself at the 'big jump' & try some balsa bashing. Still love your gussets... Hakuna matata & hasta la próxima vez Chris BRU - BE / CTR Big Jump Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Thanks Chris! You should try balsa, I will definitely try depron for something bigger than a parkflyer. I think I have somewhere the plans for an electric biplane which was a hybrid also. It was published in MRA, the French magazine, some years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevinlad Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Referring to AVC's excellent instructions for laminating balsa strip to make the outline of wingtips, rudders and tailplanes, I agree that this method is very easy and results in a very strong outer structure. When bending the strips around the former (I find just a couple of hour's soaking is enough, unless the bend is very tight) I previously hammer-in nails all around the edge of the former, about 1" in from the edge. Then, when the final strip is in place, I wind rubber bands all around the nails, ensuring that the strips follow the former outline exactly. I usually make the former from 5/8" chipboard and cover the chipboard edge with sellotape (Photo shows the former for making a Tiger Moth rudder) Edited By Kevinlad on 25/02/2016 21:37:36 This post refers to AVC's posting on first page Edited By Kevinlad on 25/02/2016 21:46:39 Edited By Kevinlad on 25/02/2016 21:49:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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