Robert Parker Posted February 26, 2017 Share Posted February 26, 2017 I'm watching too. Your build has been great to watch . Keep up the good work Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Thanks for the kind words guys. I shall sally forth. Covered the canopy frame outlines with silver tape, will do it a couple off times which hopefully will make it look like actual framework, as opposed to a piece of plastic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 What tape did you use for that john, it looks good. Is it anything like Aluclad, which comes on a sheet ? That cockpit is crying out for some detail D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Very impressive frame work looks likes litho plate from here Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Freeman 3 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Very nice build so far, I have the plan and could be tempted to build one as a Zero is a great flying aircraft. Thanks for posting the build so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 Thanks guys, it's called metalcoat, real sheet aluminium Dwain. Mick Reeves sells it on his web site. Cheap as chips and really good for anything that that requires a metal finish. Your right, it is crying out for detail. This is my chipmunk cockpit. Summit similar IS required I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 5, 2017 Author Share Posted March 5, 2017 Haven't been too idle, I've knocked a bit of a cockpit interior up from balsa. Nothing too detailed, but with the canopy on it doesn't look too Micky mouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Cannons added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Now this is looking a cracker of a build. More of this please John. this is what inspires others to have a go at detailing their own models. Loving it, three thumbs up from me. bbc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 10, 2017 Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 Not a bad effort today! Managed to put the exhausts on. They are bit too large, however if you've ever tried flattening aluminium tube without it splitting, you'll appreciate how much effort it takes. I've managed to work them into something looking like the original and there, they shall remain! I am however really chuffed with the cannon exit ports on the nose. Had to scratch my baldy head for a while for a solution. I cut a teardrop hole and then glued formed litho plate under. I can foresee the question " how can he put an iron on covering over that? I don't. I don't glass neither! Poly C is the way forward. So long as you use sanding sealer, and the patience to put six or seven coats of poly C on, the job is a good un. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Wish I had your knack with Litho Plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Coming along great John, you gotta love detailing Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 I'm impressed, simple as....... D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Posted by John Laverick on 10/03/2017 21:06:07: Not a bad effort today! Managed to put the exhausts on. They are bit too large, however if you've ever tried flattening aluminium tube without it splitting, you'll appreciate how much effort it takes. Have you tried annealing the aluminium first? Coat it with ordinary soap and heat evenly with a blowtorch until it turns dark brown/black. Let it cool and it should have softened. Work the aluminium straight away - and if you're doing any complex work, re-anneal it as soon as you detect it work hardening. Don't anneal a batch and expect to use it in a few days time as it also age hardens rapidly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 I got it from you Danny!!! Your to blame. Do you know what Martin, your right. I knew about softening aluminium but I didn't even consider it!! What a numpty!! Don't think I can live with them being too large? Trip to B and Q this afternoon me thinks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Lovely build John, the detailing is superb. Regarding Poly C, I have never used it but presumable you use sanding sealer first to stop it soaking in to the wood? Do you find it adds much weight? I guess you rub down with wet and dry or sandpaper between coats of the Poly C. I still haven't covered my A4 Skyhawk yet and I was not looking forward to covering it with film. A friend of mine used Poly C on the wings of a Vampire he built but he found the wing skins distorted when it dried. Sorry to ask silly questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Hi Piers, yes you have to use sanding sealer before covering. I've never experienced any warping. If you make sure you seal the wood, the Poly C doesnt soak in, it sits on top. Also it's dry in less than 10 mins, so shouldn't cause any problems. I think it's great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Well Martin, I'm am now much wiser. Bought some smaller tubing, annealed as you suggested, and much easier to work with The smaller exhausts look much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Ola todos, been busier than it may look! Canopy in place, prop and spinner fitted, battery compartment sorted to accept two 3s 5000's in series. Sanding sealer applied, sanded down and then six coats of Poly C added. Will make a decision this weekend as to how much detailing it will have!! The Zero has a lot of rivets. On a side note, if your gonna use Poly C, make sure you sand down after applying the sanding sealer. The effort taken makes for a much better finish. No golf today, chucking it down as normal in Greater Manchester!!! That means a full day in the bunker. Gonna get the wings sorted me thinks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Parker Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi John, She's coming along very nicely, the canopy and cockpit are tremendous. I'm going to use Poly C for the first time shortly, have you applied any tissue or glass cloth or is it straight on the model after the sanding sealer? Regards Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Yes I have Robert, I glass clothed my TN Vulcan with it. I also use it for joining wings and any other areas that need strengthening. Compared to resin it's a shince!! It sands really well and best of all, everything cleans with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laverick Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Sorry I've just re-read your question, yes it's straight on after sanding down the sealant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Looking brilliant John. Thanks for the Poly C hints and tips. Nobody in my club has ever used it, so first hand experience i will be getting very soon. bbc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bouncebounce crunch Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I will Percy, I have a 25 size sport model fuse built ready to sand, but the wing is a part open structure affair so i will contemplate the finish for the wing for a few days before i purchase the said goodly product. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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