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DB Cirrus Moth build


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I covered the top decks today, with natural solartex, this will add more strength but also allow me to fit the cabanes permanently to the fuz if I want to. Dunno if I do yet tho, until it's all covered. In fact, it might pay to have the wings built and then set it all up together.

I also put the two cowl halves together, this is a job you just have to start, and not think about too much. Just cut the pieces out and then tidy them up. I fit some strips of the off cuts to one half, and let them dry. I used Airfix Glue.

Be careful as these things can be brittle.

Once there is no fear of the joiners moving, offer up the other half and sand to a good fit, trial and error.....

9 times out of 10 you will have gaps, don't worry about this, just fill them later.

D.D.

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The joining strips. And the revell (airfix) Glue.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 12/03/2017 16:17:32

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A bit more fiddling with the cowl revealed that my motor was too high and I had to chop my motor mount down by 15 mm. I had already formed an opening at the front of the cowl, which I shouldn't have in hindsight, but hey ho.

The beauty of the plastic cowl is I can just fill the hole in with more plastic.

I added the ply blocks to take the cowl screws. I may add two more yet, cos it's a bit flexible in the middle. A fiberglass cowl would be a lot better. I am thinking of a way I can add a bit of a dummy engine.

I played about with the mount until I had the proper amounts of side and down thrust, more meat had to be taken out of the front formers, to accommodate the motor being lower. I am going to make the cavity a bit neater by adding some balsa sheet. That's the beauty of balsa, you can keep sticking it on and sanding it off, to your hearts content.

Some of the pics show alarming amounts of thrust, I added them for amusement purposes only.

D.D.

 

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Too high.

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Cutting the mount down.

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In the ball park now.

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Just right.

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The Ply blocks added, they will be sanded to shape at the front, two more will be added in the middle.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 14/03/2017 00:45:22

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Even more fiddling with the cowl this morning Chaps.

Holes filled and balsa added and all sanded to a nice profile. I was aided in this task by one of Alexs' photos from Old Warden in the April mag. Good on Yer Alex, for such a timely shot. yes

Just need to cut a nice tidy new opening for the prop driver next.

Happy Days !!

D.D.

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Hi D.D,

I have not built one of those or even from the kit manufacturer but I do usually buy a plastic kit of the plane I'm building or want to build, they come in handy for the scale detailing and finishing touches.

Also very handy for own designs too.

I am enjoying this build as I would not building one myself, but I feel that looking at all of the un-built kits that I have I may not get round to buying one any time soon.

Regards

Robert

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Cymaz........there ain't enough hours in the day...Lol but it is tempting !!

I have done a couple of my models in miniature Robert, including the DB Auster, and my W/B Replicas LA7.

I find they help with the colour scheme if you are not quite sure which way to go.

I have soldered up the connections on the ESC to day, and tested the arming plug, all works as it should.

I always colour code the leads, just to make it easy to get the motor rotation right, if they are pulled apart for any reason.

A test fit in the fuz, to see whats what and where the arming plug lead will go through.

D.D.

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As you can see here, the battery is connected but the system is not "live" until the little arming plug (far left) is fitted. No chopped and diced fingers for D.D.  wink

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There will be a couple of vents in the front cowl ( thanks to Cymaz, and his piccy link ) so the ESC will get some cooling. The back of the plastic part of the cowl is also open.

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Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 16/03/2017 11:54:28

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Posted by cymaz on 15/03/2017 01:10:14:

Something to see here....

Excellent. Useful link for Cirrus Moth builder and even for (possible) Moth Major builders (like me).

Dwain:

I wasn't that keen on plastic kits as schoolboy, though I built on or two. I don't think I could be bothered to make one now. I think model aeroplanes should fly (at least once!) and model cars should move but perhaps that's just me.

It's obviously essential to check motor rotation and general operation of the electrics. I recently bought a servo tester for so little money it wasn't worth making one for myself. It not only tests and centres servos but can be used to drive motors through the esc. A lot easier than getting out a receiver and your transmitter. I was really glad I got it.

Geoff

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Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 17/03/2017 21:55:32:

I have to work on Saturday, it's my 1 in 4, So i thought i could take a few indoor models/helis and use up my dinner hour in a pleasant way.

Then we had to put this lot in there for an exam on Monday....DOH !!

Bonus is we have an astro turf field so I will take the webbit.

D.D.

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That's a terrifying sight I haven't had to witness for over 50 years or so!

"Now you may turn over your papers." crying

Geoff

Edited By Geoff Sleath on 17/03/2017 23:29:10

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A bit more studying and I took the plunge to fix the motor mount in place. Because I have lowered the motor, I have had to give access to the motor mount screws through the front of the formers. I am sure there is some scale like way of covering the holes.

I made some braces and a bracket for the top of the mount and set it at 3 deg right thrust, the option is there to go more by adding wedges or washers.

I got my model model today and the box art is a very good source of scale bits and bobs.

It looks like a good kit too, easily on a par with Airfix.

I got some copper wire and a few bits of sheet from work on Saturday, should be able to use those to good effect.

D.D.

The box art.

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The plastic bits.

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Motor mount.

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With the bracket made from ally strip.

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I have a conundrum Guys.....The plan shows the ailerons on the bottom wing extending to the wing tips, the DB Box art shows them extending to the last rib with tip intact, the photo on the mini-me box shows full length ones.

What would you Chaps do ???

Also, today I have been along to my L.M.S., as flying was rained off.

I have not been for ages and thought it might be nice to see the staff,

It was good and some banter was had, and I caught up with a lad from an old Heli club, smiley

But Blimey, the prices......But of course there was no postage....!!!

AnyHoo I bought some things as you can see, and when I got back the Posty had brought my Cockpit surround material. A test play found that it fits and fits quite well, so thanks to Geoff Sleath for the heads up. yes

I stuck my dummy instruments onto ply panels and let them dry out, before a test fit.

I painted the cockpit interiors, using Revell No 39 green.

I think I have decided on the light blue and black fuz with silver wings

D.D.

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I have dry built the port lower wing to get an idea of how the aileron build goes. i will need to strike 2 lines up from the plan and then cut the ribs and insert the new trailing edge on the wing and the new leading edge on the aileron.

Just need to decide on the length of the aileron itself Guys.........Guys ???? HELLO Guys ...???? indecision

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Yes Cymaz, I have Mate, and all the signs are that the full size had full length ( inc the tips ) ailerons.

The shorter ones would be easier to build as I could cut the ribs before gluing, the other way I would have to build the wing and then cut the aileron free including the tip.

The awkward part is that the tip is curved......I suppose I should do it the right way really..

I will need to make some riblets first, for the inner ends.

D.D.

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Hi Dwain,

Regarding your aileron dilemma, have a look at this picture.

cirrus_moth_03.jpg

It seems that the ailerons are not " full length" (if you mean strip ailerons) but IMHO, start at the 5th rib up to - and including - the wing tips.

Cheers

Chris

Edit > OOPS, sorry Cymaz, this foreigner remains too slow at typing...  blush

Edited By McG 6969 on 20/03/2017 18:06:50

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