Who Else Wants a 63" Lavochkin La7 kit?

[Tim Flyer]

Very sorry to hear that Bob sounds like you need a break. This plane is a fair bit of work with my limited time and like you I dread painting. In fact after a couple of club members said the white plane looked good I think I’m gong to just get the big brush out and paint it white. I guess as such an experienced plane modeller you have built loads over the years. For me this is my first proper own build warbird effort and I certainly will finish it and fly it a lot . I have gone “off piste” with my interpretation of the build and it might upset scale judges but I am building it for me so am not worried. Luckily my Hangar still has enough room so I don’t have that awful problem of getting getting rid of planes I love and have spent hours working on. Your build pics look great and I’m sure a lot of people will be more than glad of saving most of the work and buy your LA7. I want to buy a Seagull 30cc Hurricane ARTF once this is done so I do need to get a move on!

[Piers Bowlan]

Sorry to hear that you are considering parting with your La-7 Bob - so near and yet so far. I have really appreciated your input with tips, advice and detailed photos. I will have to re-read this thread when I come to starting mine, hopefully not before too long.

[Bob Cotsford]

Thanks for your kind comments. Nothing is certain yet, ongoing health issues have meant that I've been vegetating over the last 6 months and now that the weather is improving I'm finding it hard work getting going again. I may just mothball the La7 for a few months to see whether I can get some strength and motivation back. I picked up a second hand ARTF Maule last week which was supposedly receiver ready but in truth needed a lot of corrective work. A change of focus was just what I needed, another 90 size model I'm not so sure about but it would've been rude to say no.

[Nigel R]

Sorry to hear that Bob - get well soon!

If you're paint-ready, it can't be that far off finished!?

[Piers Bowlan]

Yes, very sorry to hear that too. Hope you are firing on all cylinders before long! A break from it will probably enable you to come back to it fresh, at a later date.

[Tim Flyer]

I hope you are feeling better Bob. I just thought I would update all on progress. I’m still finishing little bits but am nearly at painting stage, but waiting for some warmer weather. I will be brush painting with white Solarac which is a cellulose paint so will certainly need shed doors open! . I will connect up elevator and rudder after that. I cut the spinner last night too. It’s a lovely big shiny metal one from Sarik Hobbies . They seem to have a great range. This spinner fits the cowl well leaving just about 3/8 of an inch all round to collect air. I put my SLEC pilot in for fun and made a cardboard instrument panel . Here is a pre spinner photo . I must admit that I’m enjoying this bit. As long as I don’t rush it’s still fun...

[Tim Flyer]

Oops I forgot to ask what if anyone had any advice on C of G ? How far back. I think I will use15mm up 15mm down at full travel at trailing edge as maximum on ailerons and elevators . Any opinions welcome!

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 01/05/2018 10:26:39

[Bob Cotsford]

Thanks Tim, I am having a better week. Maybe the promise of some sun is helping

The plan shows the CofG as being 122mm back from F2 iirc, and 15mm is what Richard recommends in the book for ailerons and elevators, though he rather oddly goes imperial with 1" each way for the rudder. It will be interesting to see if the moderately sized ailerons are as effective as the ones on my late Ta152 (RIP), that rolled at a phenomenal rate at full bore.

[Tim Flyer]

Cheers Bob good to hear things looking better. Sun is so welcome! It does change everything and I think we should soon be in for a better spell! I had put the plans away so missed that! I will do as it said and use the rates switch as usual to give me choice on first few flights . I wanted to start thinking of c of g so I can start thinking where my two Life batteries go. I’m set to mount them after painting, on the fuel tank base just behind F1 but may put the smaller retract battery further rearwards if needed. My cowl is heavy and I’m using a big metal spinner, plus I went light on the tail so hopefully no lead will be required up front . Have a good week all 😊

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 01/05/2018 14:51:02

[Jon H]

Looks great Tim, cant be long now before shes ready to go?

Bob, the ailerons on my bigger one are pretty powerful so i wouldnt be too worried.

[Bob Cotsford]

yes Jon, it's surprising how relatively small ailerons can be very effective at warbird speeds. The other way of looking at it is perhaps how ineffective the root sections of strip ailerons are!

[Jon H]

too true! I made the elevators on my Hurricane scale size and they are still extremely powerful. My sea fury has really powerful controls all round as well. I think that is why so many people run in to trouble when moving to their first warbird. They set control deflections similar to their sport models and its just way too much

[Tim Flyer]

Agreed Bob as well as the root being ineffective I think the last bit of the trailing edge is the important bit especially at speed so they don’t need to be very deep unless it’s for “kite flying 😉3d” low speed design. Cheers Jon hopefully it will fly well and the engine definitely won’t overheat. There is really just the painting ahead now and then installing the bits and pieces after. Im leaving engine out and control wires to make painting and sanding easier . Should be in the air within a month if the weather stays sunny!

[Tim Flyer]

Hi all I hope you are all well and getting on ok with your builds? I have progressed further and hope to have it finished within the next 2 weeks. It’s mostly painted but I have a question on fuel proofing the decals. Will I be ok painting them with Solarac clearcoat? This is a cellulose based lacquer. I also have Deluxe two pack Tuff Kote that I used over the paint on the front to make it extra fuel proof. If that’s not ok I do have Spectra polyurethane varnish. I’m keen to avoid wrinkling up the decals so advice appreciated!

[Bob Cotsford]

I've not had any problems using Clearcoat over vynil decals, I have had problems with Spectra fuel proofer being anything but!

It may be a bit late in the day, but I'm thinking of going electric. Looking at the model I'd just need to cut a section of the top deck off from behind the cowl to just in front of the cockpit and face everything with 1/32" ply. A few magnets and dowels to hold it on, a liteply battery box sloping down through F2, fill in the cylinder head hole I cut in the cowl and I'm in business. I have a 5055 430kv motor and 80A esc along with various 6S packs. Flog the OS91 Surpass IIP and buy even more batteries. No mess, no starting gear or fuel, no running motor to carry across the pits - unfortunately no noise either

That or add it to the list of IC models for sale.

[Tim Flyer]

Thanks again Bob. Agree with you re Spectra. It certainly needs s fair bit of baking before resisting fuel. In my Acrowot it’s very sticky in patches . I will use the clearcoat I think then .. hopefully no wrinkles. If you use the electric on the LA 7 might be worth having a sound system...

[Bob Cotsford]

Are you using the flatting agent with the clearcoat Tim? I have a can but i've yet to try it. Hmmm - sound systems. That could be an interesting area. I think there are various radial engine sound tracks available. If all else fails I can play the sound on my tx!

[Tim Flyer]

Hi Bob ..Yes I have been using the flatting agent with the solarac paints. It works quite well. I have been using about 20/25%. That was as much as I could fit in a new tin of paint as they have a small gap at the top. The 20% mix seems to have a “silk mild sheen” but certainly not gloss . But I think it looks fine plus silk will be much more durable I think than Matt. One thing I noticed is that the flatting agent needs a lot of stirring before adding to the main pot of paint as it has a lot of tiny particles. ..Regards. Tim

Edited By Timothy Harris 1 on 14/05/2018 11:10:19

[Tim Flyer]

I think I’m going to paint the canopy edge lines with Spectra Matt black. I’m not too keen on the red colour there and I would rather not use solarac red in case it reacts with the plastic being cellulose. Oil based Spectra enamel isn’t that fuel proof but I think perfectly good enough for the canopy.

[Tim Flyer]

Nearly finished now. I need to next apply decals. I might later paint the spinner light grey to match canopy.

[Jon H]

ooo pretty

[Tim Flyer]

Cheers Jon. I’m looking forward to finishing it . The only annoying thing is that a small spider has taken up residence the cockpit and a bit of its web has picked up a grain of foam! 😊 .

[Tim Flyer]

Drat! Too much haste! I put in the HK retracts last night . First one went in fine and worked well . Bit of a disaster on the second one . I screwed it in without checking if there was any tension from the thick oleo resting on the wing. When I tested it it went up ok but jammed going back ! I should have shimmed it slightly but rushed. Anyway I couldn’t disconnect fast enough and it has fused/ burnt out the motor. It’s a shame but I don’t have the skill to repair electronics. Anyway I ordered a new pair of the 10kg “large heavy plane” retracts from HK in Hong Kong. These are the ones I use on my Laser 100 powered P 47 and will use the same. This will delay the maiden flight by a week or so 😧....but i’ll Be back!

[Bob Cotsford]

I'm surprised at that Tim, the HK retracts that I've used have had stall protection built in to the amplifiers. In fact I've found that a more reliable way of setting the movement than relying on the microswitches. Maybe it was a faulty unit?

[Ron Gray]

I had the same issue with HK retracts, they're supposed to have stall protection but I've been through 3 or 4 different ones where it's been obvious that they haven't! I now am of the opinion that it is better to pay more to get quality legs,, after all, you don't want one packing up in flight!