Phil 9 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 most people seem to now have a switch on the side of the model but when I first started alot of models I saw had the switch inside the model and it was operated by a length of wire that exited the model and was pushed and pulled to operate the switch. was the reason for this to protect the switch from the ingress of glow fuel? I was thinking of doing something similar on my next model just because it would hide the switch and maybe look better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Phil I am probably in a minority of one here, but this is something I do all the time. I do not like having the switch on the outside of the model because: -It looks inelegant, -Possibility of fuel/water getting in it (I do a lot of floatplane flying), -Possibility of accidental switching on on way to flying field if switch is knocked, -Vibration from airframe causing switch to fail. I mount the switch inside the fuselage in a convenient place on a thin ply plate, but I also use servo grommets to isolate the plate from the airframe. I bet this is heresy to most people but it works for me. I have to say that even when I mount the switch internally, using a single piece of wire to actuate it is still poor to my mind. It can still be knocked on and it can still transmit vibration. I prefer to use a length of fine monofilament fishing line that loops through the hole in the switch and exits either side of the fuselage in a "pull-pull" arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 As you say above Phil, fuel ingress etc But we could also soft mount the switch inside and the push wire was a sort of isolation from the body too Woops, Alan beat me to it Edited By Denis Watkins on 17/08/2017 09:57:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I've never favoured mounting switches on the side of models because of vibration and as you say, ingress of oil - to say nothing of accidentally knocking the switch on/off. I always mount RX switches internally on a strip of strong double sided foam tape (vibration protection) and have a short actuating push rod to the outside or into cockpit if possible. For transport, a clothes peg on the push rod prevents accidentally switching it on when loading or unloading in the car. I have the switch set push for on. One other thing - only buy genuine manufacturers' switches (bagged and labelled as such). The copies and those sold as 'compatible' are not as good, I've dismantled both types and the copies I've come across are of inferior build quality with feeble contacts. Electronic switches are an option, but again, there are many suspect cheapo ones on the market and for run-of -the-mill models, the quality, very expensive ones aren't really economic. Sometimes it's best to just keep it simple. Edited By Cuban8 on 17/08/2017 10:14:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronaldo Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I've used the switch inside with a push pull wire with a blob of solder on the end exiting the fuselage for as long as I can remember. Also when I've built models for clubmates they always request I do the same for them. I have it so that pushed in is off, so it can't be accidently switched on when loading/unloading the model in the car, which I've found is easy to do when using the slider switch mounted outside. I also use this method on petrol for the ignition switch mounted up front just behind the cowl, and then next to it a 2mm threaded pushrod outside the fuselage with the threaded end screwed into the inner part of a snake attached just inside the fuselage side and from there going through the firewall to operate the choke. Keeps it all nice and tidy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 9 Posted August 17, 2017 Author Share Posted August 17, 2017 well I did wonder about accidental switching and using a push on rod would stop it being knocked to off bit I had not considered an accidental on as I thought this was not as bad. But it still could be very inconvenient, a peg stopper would work well. I also like the fishing line idea. I will have to experiment with both as for switches I have used this type for a while without any failure yet (touch wood) **LINK** Edited By Phil 9 on 17/08/2017 13:25:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Whybrow Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Another one who mounts the switch internally and uses a pushrod to operate it; I use the SLEC kit for this as it gives a neat bush for the fuselage side and a plastic knob for the actuating rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Posted by Phil 9 on 17/08/2017 13:23:00: well I did wonder about accidental switching and using a push on rod would stop it being knocked to off bit I had not considered an accidental on as I thought this was not as bad. But it still could be very inconvenient, a peg stopper would work well. I also like the fishing line idea. I will have to experiment with both as for switches I have used this type for a while without any failure yet (touch wood) **LINK** Edited By Phil 9 on 17/08/2017 13:25:59 I must have been unlucky, only had one switch with that exact same face-plate which i bought at a show, first plane I put it in the telemetry low Rx voltage was going off every time I moved the sticks, I thought it was a duff battery , but it turned out that the switch was very high resistance, so any current drawn (i.e. moving a servo) caused a big voltage drop. +1 for the SLEC internal switch mounts too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I don't really have a preference, but generally mount externally. I don't think a piece of bent wire looks better, however, I would be tempted if purpose made remote levers/knobs were available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gangster Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Rich. I am sure such purpose made items are available. They were certainly a number around a few years ago. As well as many servo trays having a cut out for the switch Skyleader went one further and supplied a remote lever with their trays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I've used these switches for a while now. Nice green light to tell you it's on. You can't miss it and it doesn't seem to draw much battery life either. Put a few in open cockpits and I've painted the switch the same colour as the covering Edited By cymaz on 17/08/2017 15:57:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 +1 for the led switches. Have 8, all without an issue + using NiMh means I can easily charge when hanging from the ceiling and check levels at the field without taking the wing off and they have a slide over the charge point which keeps any debris/goo out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Years ago a I hand launched a PAW diesel powered glider and my hand slipped along the oily fuz and pushed the fuselage mounted RX switch off. Model flew beautifully, circled up to a massive height under power and was last seen heading away, never to be found. Ironically, the engine had been a right pig up to that point, only running for a few seconds and then cutting out at about fifty feet or so - typical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I use both systems. In the case of the switch on the fuselage side I have it "on" forward because I too have switched a model off hand launching. I also use the Dubro switch mount for the internally mounted switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Posted by gangster on 17/08/2017 15:28:39: Rich. I am sure such purpose made items are available. They were certainly a number around a few years ago. As well as many servo trays having a cut out for the switch Skyleader went one further and supplied a remote lever with their trays. Yeah, I suspect there is - the Dubro one isn't too bad, but if you go for the one with charge jack you may as well mount the switch externally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flight1 Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Mounting a switch inside or out side will be subject to the same vibrations and I have always mounted the switch on the out side, opposite side to the oily exhaust never any issues other than to replace every few years and not waiting for it to fail before replacing it and the plane . Don't use or be tempted to use cheep/ copy switches only the badged labled main stream ones as mentioned above. and now days tech has moved on for very reliable vibration proof and anti accidently switching off switching devices using solid state tech like these or equivalent Edited By flight1 on 17/08/2017 19:34:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Posted by cymaz on 17/08/2017 15:56:28: I've used these switches for a while now. Nice green light to tell you it's on. You can't miss it and it doesn't seem to draw much battery life either. Put a few in open cockpits and I've painted the switch the same colour as the covering Edited By cymaz on 17/08/2017 15:57:42 That's similar to what I've been using - two of them on petrol models. I had an issue with with them on my Yak (one stopped working and I didn't know. I flew one one battery and did not know until I charged the batteries) and have stopped using them since. Edited By Rich too on 17/08/2017 19:36:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Fisher Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 I have used both internally and externally mounted switches with no problems. External ones are mounted vertically with "up" for off and "down" for on as is normal with domestic light switches. I have never managed to switch one of these off when launching. For internal switches I use a single push rod using push for off. Malcolm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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